ProDave

It wasn't as easy as I thought it would be but we got there.

Following a request, I have moved the discussions about using a Willis heater as a backup to a new thread here

I am surprised they specified ducting as small as 38mm. but you should be okay. The usual incoming supply cable is a concentric cable, and it seems to pass thtough a 25mm conduit without problem.

What he will have gained from that is he will be your plumber of choice for anything else and you will recommend him to others.

These things are in essence just a mains extension lead. I would no more plug a hot tub into one than I would the typical multi way extension lead you find behind tv's or computers.

Why would a hot tub plug into a pop up socket in the kirchen?

I fitted that CPC one (though I paid more elsewhere because CPC's search fcility is so rubbish I could not find it on their site) I chose it because it had to retract down into a 70mm wide gap between the back of the units and the island back panel. That one fits into a 60mm diameter hole. Most of the others I looked at typically needed a 90mm hole or even larger. My advice is buy the socket now, so it is available to see when they come to template for the worktop.

That's called a "security screw" a bit like the torx ones with a hole or a pin in the middle so a standard torx won't fit. Also 3 pronged "philips" screws are quite common.

I was a bit shocked when I found SWMBO's car had a torx drive sump plug. I did try it with a standard socket set, a hex socket, and the appropriate size torx bit and it became apparent that something would break if I applied enough torque to undo the thing. I had to go and buy a 3/8 drive with the correct size torx bit to finally get enough grunt to undo it.

I did the same but just fitted blank plates, and the other end of the cable is inside the CU but not terminated to anything yet.

That just illustrates how stupid our planning system is. You can't get permission to build a properly designed house in your garden, but you can get permission to convert a completely unsuitable redundant water tower into a house.

Then don't tell your EPC assessor that you have them, tell them the house is so well insulated they are not needed

Have you read my description of my system? I haven't put the satellite receivers with the tv's I want less clutter particularly in the case of the wall hung tv. My satellite boxes are in the under stairs cupboard with everything else, conveniently within reach of 10 metre long hdmi cables to each tv, and a wireless IR remote control extender so you can still control them from the living rooms. As well as the coax, cat5 etc, I ran 2 long hdmi cables and a long component video cable to each tv. But I do have the spare runs of coax in case that changes and there is a need for satellite boxes at the tv's.

First picture of the guys assembling the scaffold. They have it so the transoms (cross pieces that the planks sit on) are on the high set of pegs. Every single upright should be rotated 90 degrees so the transoms are on the lower pegs. That would put the ledgers (the long poles parallel to the planks) on the same level as the planks. As it is they are lower than the planks. It probably won't make any difference, it certainly won't fall down, but it will be hard to fit toe boards, which may be why they haven't? I would have expected better from the professionals. Anyone else share my view or am I in the wrong?

I hate to say it, but the scaffolders have put that lot up wrong (all the uprights need rotating 90 degrees) Not to mention the missing toe boards Us diyers don't get bothered abut toe boards but you would expect it from the professionals.

^^ That's an issue with door opening swings. As I assume the doors to the living room and kitchen open into their rooms, not onto the landing, it does not apply anyway.

I would want to research that to find out the details. It seems a bit bonkers that building regs can stop you having doors opposite each other on a landing? In some ways your house is an upside down version of ours. We have a familly room one side of the hall and a snug living room the other, double doors to each directly opposite each other across the hall. If you wan to, open both doors and it opens it up as a big space. I would need to see a GOOD reason why you can't do that upstairs. How about moving the stairs right to the back and have as we have 2 flights with a half landing. It could give you a large (tall) cupboard on the half landing, free up more hall and landing space for doors, and allow an 1800mm wide hall and landing to make the other rooms bigger. You would have to relocate the upstairs loo though.

A few little things The two upstairs rooms, put the doors to them opposite each other on the landing, not staggered. Make them double, glass doors so you can open up the space as one when you want to and let light into the landing. Make the upstairs loo slightly larger, to allow you to bring a solar tube down inside it (boxed in) that will come out just in front of the downstairs cupboard to give some light to the back of the hall. A window above the loo door for a bit of borrowed light as well. You might need to push the stairs a bit nearer the front door for some of that. The proportions of the downstairs bathroom and en-suite need some work to properly use that awkward redundant space behind the wardrobe.

That is still larger than the original. The original is a bit of an odd ball, it appears to have a rating of about 8Va but in the same size package of a 6Va transformer. I don't want to fit a 6VA so the standard 12VA sizes look the best bet. Now I have confirmation there is space for a slightly bigger one, I will order the CPC one, so much simpler as I have an account with them.

Okay this is the closest I can find https://cpc.farnell.com/camdenboss/ctfc12-12/transformer-12va-2-x-12v/dp/TF01339?st=12v transformer you can get that from any number of suppliers but they are all the same size. This is a little bigger than the original. I don't think mounting it on the back of the plastic tray moulding will be a problem, BUT it will stick out 10mm further than the original transformer. Can someone with sight of how the plastic tray fits into the unit tell me if an extra 10mm clearance for the transformer is available? EDIT: Just taking a look at the link above that may be more suitable

Yes it's a standard chassis mount 240V ac in 12V ac output 667mA transformer needed. The 2 mounting holes are 60mm apart. I am trying a bit of careful disection to see if I can see a thermal trip but initial thought is if there is one it won't be accessible so will be looking for a new transformer. I have to go out just now so back later to continue the search.

@Gav_P Your board arrived this morning. I am glad you sent the complete assembly including the transformer. First finding, there was no output from the transformer. Primary winding appears open circuit. Step 2 try powering the board from a bench power supply fed into the transformer input. As this feeds into a bridge rectifier, the polarity from the bench supply should not matter. The board powers up and the LED is flashing away. giving 4 flashes, a pause then 1 flash. No doubt a fault code as just about everything is unplugged. It looks like the overload on the power supply due to the short circuit caused the thermal protection in the transformer to blow. It may or not be possible to repair the transformer, it might need a new one. I will keep you posted.

Ah sounds like another rag and stick member on the forum then.

I find friends don't visit so often, if every time they turn up you start with "oh while you are here, can you give me a lift with this, yes that's correct, right up to the top of the scaffolding, what do you mean you don't like heights......"

Well the list of different width door liners are 180mm 120mm and 95mm I don't see anything "non standard" about using 95mm 0r 145mm C16 regularised plus plasterboard and skim as a wall make up. Add in an OSB racking layer (for a load bearing wall) and yes it might be less common, but I would hardly say non standard.