ProDave

Just a simple question having read the above. If the immersion now goes through their own pulsed controller, HOW will that operate if you are trying to dump variable amounts of surplus solar PV to the thing?

I remember now. I feel optomistic that this one is likely repairable. If you don't get anywhere I am willing to give it a try, obviously with no guarantee of success.

@Gav_P remind me of how yours failed? and what the symptoms are? I don't think it was as drastic as @joe90 one so might stand a better chance of repair.

Without some testing with a volt meter it is hard to be certain. One guess is the 2 core is L and N feed. The 3 core is then L and N out and switched L out on the yellow. The fact there is no yellow at the ceiling rose means another junction box somewhere. It is quite common to "loop at the switch" like this. The unusual thing is the 3 core containing L and switched L This would typically feed a bathroom fan giving permanent L and switched L for the fan, with just the switched L then going on to the light. Is this an upstairs room? if so look in the loft. Don't discount stupidity / ignorance and another hidden junction box above the ceiling.

Our house is built with a ridge beam (Kerto not steel) and the main advantage is it allows a warm roof design, so the whole of the interior space is inside the insulated envelope including any loft space not used as room in roof.

Interesting indeed. I did ours not long back. The only filters are either side of the heat exchanger core inside the mvhr. They are what I cal "cooker hood filter" material, just a woven sort of plastic mesh, though much much thicker than used in cooker hoods. When I checked ours, they were just a bit grey with what looked like ordinary fine, dry "house dust". I removed them, beat them outside, hoovered them clean, and put them back. I take it those filters did not start life black in colour?

can that even be enforced now as Code 6 does not exist any more?

Why do the council think what electricity supply you have is a planning matter?

I have not tried a timer yet, too many other things to do. but our conder continues to work without smell or any other issues.

change the lampholders, ditch the transformer(s) and fit GU10 LED's

Yes. But SWMVO gets very hot and bothered if you run out of hot water.

With a thermostatic mixer (I have the same one) you don't even have to do that. Turn it on, and it will be at the correct temperature, just like it was last time. A thermostat will look carp, will probably go wrong at some point, and will become a "dare" to see who can withstand the hottest. And it will delay the bathroom being finished.

Siga tape is good but expensive. I was very happy with Tescon Vanna tape. There is a German ebay seller who sells it a lot cheaper than anyone in the UK

I used a lot of Barriair A few comments. It was the cheapest stuff I could find. The 1.5M width does NOT line up with 600mm stud spacing, so some joints will not lie on studs. Not a great issue for me as my frame was lined internally with OSB (see next point if you are expecting floating joints) I do NOT trust the supplied inbuild sealing tape. As it is it joins sticky tape to sticky tape, so you would think it sticks like $&!£ but it doesn't. While waiting to batten and board, I found a few seams coming unstuck. So what I did, anywhere there was a joint that did not end up under a batten, I screwed ripped strips of OSB offcuts over the entire length of the joint to keep the joints sandwiched together. I could do that as I had 2 layers of OSB to screw through into. If you are expecting floating joints, don't just rely on the inbuilt tape, supliment the joint with a trusted air tightness tape as well.

Normal priactice up here with a timber framed house, is the window (plus it's fire stop) forms the cavity closer so window partly into timber frame partly into blockwork skin.

I ordered an ordinary drum of plain old RG6 from a well known "tool" supplier but what turned up was a huge drum of very expensive labgear twin shotgun WF100 so it would have been impolite not to have used that. The point about all cables converging in an accessible place, is should we ever (heaven forbid) want sky and it needs a direct feed, then we can patch a direct feed through to any room, and should I need extra cables, there is space in the hockey stick that exits the floor of the under stairs cupboard and comes out of the wall under where the deck will go (with a trap door in the deck to access it) I have 3 coaxes going to each tv point back to the hub, only 1 in use at each presently for the freeview aerial. To see more, look at my blog (link in signature) and look for the entry "The Electrical cupboard"

Is it the hinges dropping or the frame the glass is in sagging? In a previous house we had a big UPVC double glazed French door and we had the suppliers back twice as it kept sagging. Basically the UPVC frame of the door was not strong enough to support the weight of the glass and the frame was sagging. They had the glass out and re packed and re glued it in twice.

Firstly they used this new fangled "insulated concrete" mix. When the form work went up, there was about 100mm thick slab of EPS in the middle with spacers to maintain a gap. It was arranged so there was a thin layer of concrete on the outside side of the insulation slab, and a thicker layer of concrete on the inside of the insulation slab. The tie holes that held the formwork together and the spacerrs for the insulation slab were plugged with concrete plugs when all set and formwork removed.

Just run multiple cable from all tv points to a central hub, in my case in the under stairs cupboard then you can patch anything through to any tv. I have an octo LNB on thr dish. I really don't think I will need more than 8 points in use, but of course if I do, I could change the octo for a quatro lnb and fit a multiswitch in the under stairs bupboard.

I would not want to be that target market thank you.

I read somewhere, perhaps on a thread here, or on another forum, that to be enforceable, a covenant has to be written to benefit "land" If that is true, this covenants benefits "a company" and so may not be enforceable. Can you buy an indemnity policy to cover this? That is what we did when selling a former house where (without realising it) I had breached a no building clause by building an extension.

Something desperately wrong there. No pedestrian door from the garage to the house. No "stuff" in the garage, not a workbench, shelves or anything. Not even a SOCKET on the wall.

I take it the other series "impossible build" has finished? or is it just on a break this week. If so it was a short series. Mind you I think that's all the new ones for this series of GD, looks like it's a "revisited" one next week.

By the time they bought the plot (£500K) and spent £450K building it, then I suspect this is the first GD house in the SE that would not be worth it's construction cost. I most certainly would not pay almost a a £million for that (even if I could afford to do so)

Does your heat pump have any provision to control the thermostat? My LG one has control of the thermostat via a contactor. That is either for periodic "stertilisation" cycles, or to do just what you want and heat the water the last bit up to full temperature. I foresee a problem with the logic though. If the HP heats the tank to 40, then the immersion heats it to say 55. Then as soon as you draw water and the temperature drops, the immersion will come on and heat the water. So unless you run a full bath and use the whole lot up in one go, the HP will never get a go at heating and it will all be done with the immersion. That is why I am heating my HW to full temperature with the HP. Mine is now set to 49 degrees (minor adjustment from previous setting) and so far no ill effects and no sign of the HP defrosting. P.S if you are thinking of using the cylinder stat, that won't handle the immersion heater load, you will need to use a contactor or SSR to switch the immersion.