ProDave

We live in a new modern near passive house level house with mvhr. There is a complete absense of condensation or mould anywhere, and I share others views that the air always feels fresh inside. Smells, e.g from cooking disperse very quickly. Back to the OP. You mention "moisture from the shower" Do you just have the 1 bathroom, or are you saying there is an en-suite shower in this bedroom? One thing that strikes me is you have 5 fresh air points but only 2 stale air extract points. I would try adding an extra stale air extraction point to bedroom one at the opposite corner to the existing fresh air point.

Yes, if I look at the list of connected devices in my router, it shows the Pi still at 192.168.1.220 I have to go out shortly so will look at those log files later. I will also plug in the tv and see if any error messages come up as it boots.

Yes that works, average of about 32mS. So that blows that theory away then.

My Pi Music Box has stopped working and I need the collective wisdom of the forum to help me diagnose the problem. The Pi boots up and you can access it via the web interface from a computer or phone, so on the face of it, it is okay. It will play local music files stored on it's memory card okay. But it won't play any internet stream or radio station. It brings up the list of stored streams, but if you try and play one, it goes silent and you get the message "Trying to reach Music Box on 192.168.1.220, please wait" My suspicion is that although it is connected to the network, for some reason it cannot see the internet. I can SSH into it with PuTTY but don't have the knowledge what to do from there to diagnose it. A bit of background. It was working 2 days ago, then just stopped playing. That in itself is not unusual, I recon it needs re booting about once a week, as like anything based on a computer, it is not perfect. That same day we had lots of network problems. Our internet connection was on and off all day, and the browser on the computer kept coming up with all sorts of silly messages relating to wifi authentication failing etc. That is not directly related because the Pi is hard wired to the netowrk. I have re booted the router (BT Home Hub 4) several times. Any ides how to check and what might have gone wrong?

That's a big hole in the ground.

Piping water off your land to a ditch owned by someone else without asking them first, just sounds like the next excuse to have people knocking on your door.

Mould usually means condensation which usually means cold wall and high humidity. What is the house construction and age?

I just let a neighbour buy a £500 bath, his Mrs changed her mind, and I bought it from him for £200.

Fear not @Nickfromwales My friendly plumber is going to test it and sign the installation paperwork at the same time he does my Gas Safe test and certificate.

Let me explain more. I do have a cylinder stat and that cylinder stat is connected to the motorised valve that feeds the how water in from the ASHP. But it does NOT use that as it's normal control. The Heat pump has a temperature probe that sits in a thermostat pocket and the heat pump stops heating when that probe senses it has reached the set temperature. That enables you to adjust the set temperature from the heat pumps control panel. The Tank thermostat and motorised valve are there as the safety device to shut off the heat source should the heat pump malfunction and not stop heating, and must be set to a higher temperature than your normal hot water target temperature. If that does not comply I don't know what you can do about it. I am sure most heat pump setups are like that. I could lower the tank thermostat temperature to try and match it, but if the tank thermostat turned off 1 degree before the heat pump thought it was hot enough then the heat pump would carry on trying to get it to target (with the water just bypassing)

1: I am buggered if I want someone wasting a tank of hot water. If I do it myself I can do the tests just after someone has had a bath and USED the hot water rather than wasting it. 2: Heating from cold with my ASHP will take about 2 hours. Partly because it only heats DHW in half hour bursts and then waits half an hour. I am buggered if I am going to pay someone to play on facebook on his phone while he waits that long. 3: My cylinder will stop heating when the ASHP's temperature probe in a pocket says it is hot enough. You would have to add an EXTRA test, heat the cylinder even hotter with the immersion heater to confirm the cylinder thermostat clicks off at about 70 degrees and shuts the motorised valve. That does NOT normally happen in normal use, but is there purely as a safety function. The tester would probably not understand what is going on, and tell me it is "wrong" 4: easy 5: easy I know I will incur the wrath of the forum, but I will stick to doing the tests myself.

A reserved matters application is in effect another planning application with the same notifications and same window for people to raise objections. The only real difference is the principle that you can build has been agreed, so this is just to make sure the details are acceptable. Often with an outline application they try and influence your design, e.g. because our outline application said nothing about the roof material, they stuck in the condition it must be a slate roof. I did get that overturned by discussion with the planners and we agreed on a concrete tile that looked a bit like slate.

I will know where to ask should I ever need that.

Unusual foundations for a 1930's house. The 1930's house we used to have had concrete strip foundations, about 2feet deep.

Good point @Russell griffiths Anyone else think it may have previously been repointed to "fix" the same issue?

Just how is he going to get that boat out of his basement. IF he ever finishes it?

Re cylinder heat loss. I think a lot of people don't insulate the pipes leading to the cylinder very well. You need to insulate them ALL. Even the over pressure / temp discharge pipe from mine is insulated, otherwise it was warm (by conduction from the cylinder) and losing heat. The room the cylinder is in never seems any hotter than the other bedrooms so the loss from the cylinder cannot be very great.

The immediate observation is next doors driveway slopes up towards the road. So presumably there was an issue with water running down the drive so this drain is to catch it. The drain does not "go nowhere" At some point along it's length there will be a drain pipe emerging from the bottom of it taking the water somewhere. If there were not such a drain pipe then it would be obvious and you would see the drain overflow when it rains. What age is the house? The bricks look relatively modern, but the foundations look more like Victorian, i.e. pre concrete. If I didn't know better I would say that bay has been rebuilt, or re pointed before, the brickwork is not very straight. Have any trees been removed recently? Why don't you want the house insurance involved, that is what it is for surely?

The thing that struck me was the fragile nature of the site. They were expecting the softer rock layer to erode over time and leave the house sitting on it's piles right on the edge on the harder rock face. Seriously would anyone pay £millions for a house in that precarious position?

An "unexpected wrap up bill" can only be because they have not been reading and billing correctly throughout the period. but 1L per minute "leak" is huge and should be obvious. Take the top off the cistern and see if it is overflowing the overflow, if so adjust the float level.

Yes, it is closed, and it opens when it is energised. that is normal.

Yes definitely DIY job as long as you turn the power off. Just connect the new actuator into exactly the same 2 terminals that the old one was connected to. I used these ones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Underfloor-heating-manifold-actuator-230v-UK-seller-Normally-Closed/263920710929?hash=item3d72e67511:g:NpoAAOSworhbvg0O I chose them because the mounting screw is metal. I have had problems before with some where you screw a plastic bit on and then the head clips onto it.

I did that in my en-suits. They were both only a short run of pipe, but it was a right pain feeding still quite long bits of pipe under and between the posi joist webs. With anything like a full room e.g. a bedroom I think it would become an impossible task.

Hi and welcome. Stairs questions can go here https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/forum/141-general-joinery/

I had a very good relationship with our builder, and I am sure if I had discussed with them my concerns about the weather, they would either say don't worry it will be fine, or they would re schedule. I would not expect them re scheduling to increase the cost in any way. It is in their interests that the foundations are correct.