ProDave

Also be aware that some old types of service head are very dangerous things to meddle with. It is qiute likely when demolishing an old property that the service head will be very old. Even some old types of supply cable can be dangerous as well.

The Fishy smell just got stronger.

Water is fine and nobody seems bothered about the phone. But moving the incoming electricity supply should only be done by the DNO and there will be a cost for that. If A.N.Other moves it and something goes wrong then they would be in very big trouble. You have 2 options. One is to move it to a temporary box and then move it again after the new build is up which will incur 2 costs. Or to move it to a permanent kiosk on the site boundary and when the house is built run your own cable from there to the new house.

This is the waste I have in use at the moment I could add the in line adaptor either in the horizontal section from the left hand bowl, or in the vertical section above the trap. Set up this way, the main larger sink is the left hand one so that horizontal section of pipe gets plenty of flow so should stay sweet. It is the vertical drop from the half bowl that gets less use. This is the standard 2 bowl sink waste that Howdens supply. This is presently connected to a temporary sink that will be moving to the utility room. When we do the boiling water tap it will be part of finishing the kitchen involving a new sink and a stone worktop, plus the boiling water tap. I need another waste. I could move this one with the sink to the utility room if a more appropriate one with 2 appliance wastes was available.

My next question is connecting the tundish discharge. I have a 2 bowl waste kit very much like this one https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-double-bowl-sink-trap-kit-white-40mm/80588 It connects the two sink bowls and has ONE point to connect an appliance, currently used by the dishwasher. The MI for the HW tap says to connect the tundish via a bit of hose to an appliance connector. So todays question, is HOW to add a second appliance connector to that sink waste set, OR can someone point me to a dual bowl sink waste kit that has TWO appliance connector points? (I need to buy one for the utility room, so the one I have could move to the utility room if I buy a new one for the kitchen)

So you know where it leaked,. go and lift a floorboard directly above the leak and have a look. Assuming the central has been retro fitted, you will find floorboards that have previously been lifted when the pipes were installed, so should be easier to lift again to have a look. If you are lucky it will be a compression joint that just needs a bit of tightening.

A further point of explanation, is unlike a boiler, a heat pump will only ever heat space heating or Domestic Hot Water one at a time, never both together. This enables the heat pump to run at a low flow temperature for heating and only run at a higher temperature when heating DHW. It is this separation of functions that enables it to switch from cooling mode to heating mode when DHW is called for.

Yes it is an odd situation. My guess is he doesn't really want to sell them by auction, he wants you to just contact him and negotiate. A better way might be to package them up in lots of 16 panels (4KWp) and sell them in batches like that.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Crucial to fitting under floor heating will be insulation, lots of it, under the floor. So the first question is what is the ground floor construction?

And you should discharge the system pressure to 0 before checking the AIR pressure in he bladder via the Schroeder valve on the top. If the pressure only got up to 2 bar, then the plumbing is not very good.

A photo would help greatly.

Mine is buried in the same trench as the mains cable, both SWA and buried direct not in duct.

Re transport to work. Back in the day when I had a "proper job" I deliberately bought a house close to work so in nice weather I could cycle. That plan fell apart when the organisation I worked for was in the process of being shut down. The only available job I could find in time was 20 miles away. I briefly toyed with the idea of moving, but that job didn't last long, and the next one was 20 miles away again but in the opposite direction. Neither were a viable commute on public transport. If you are not so fussy what job you need then it might be viable to live close to work and stay that way, but it was not my experience.

There are many solutions. My meters are remote from the house. So when I installed the cabling I laid a spare length of 6 pair armoured BT telephone cable. I use 2 pairs of this to connect the current transformers to the house where my solar PV diverter is. But wireless solutions are possible.

What about this bargain basement? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Instant-Hot-Boiling-Water-Kitchen-Tap-3-in-1-Cold-Hot-Water-Heating-Unit/192074602857?hash=item2cb889d969:g:pSkAAOSwi0RXzKr8 only 98 degree water which probably explains the lack of any vent needed.

In that respect the Quooker safety mechanism is better. you press a ring down twice then turn it to dispense boiling water, something easy to do with 1 hand.

No recent activity on ebay, no feedback as a seller, and suddenly he has 300 panels to sell. Perhaps a little whiff of fish? Re transport, I got 25 panels that came on a pallet stacked flat. A clever (experience?) trick was the seller taped a completely empty small cardboard box on the top of the stack, almost certainly to deter the couriers stacking other stuff on top. I doubt you would want more than about 30 panels on one pallet and that will cost something like £100 from Palletways or similar. It would be interesting if anyone is close enough to actually visit, see the panels and buy some and let us know.

Do the likes of Stairbox etc have a box to tick for "additional dead load"?

The Lamona instructions have a section on "calibrating" the temperature. I am interested to see what someone like @Nickfromwales says to discharging the tundish output (which is potentially boiling water) via a hose into a washing machine connection point with no mention of the pipework needing to be ABS.

So would a 27 degree fish tank do the whole house heating in a passive house? Cue the calculator guru's.

Just downloaded and read the instructions for the Lamona tap, it is this one if anyone is interested https://www.howdens.com/kitchens/kitchen-sinks-and-taps/kitchen-taps/lamona-arroscia-3-in-1-chrome-right-angled-hot-water-tap-obj-sku-family-25352773#Fitting That does need a drain, but the instructions show the tundish mounted high in the sink unit and connected via a bit of hose to a washing machine drain point into the drain. No mention of it needing to be ABS pipe rather than PVC which I thought was a requirement for potentially boiling water discharge? Putting it into a washing machine drain point puts it above the sink trap so no need for a waterless trap. If that really is acceptable then I can do that. But I will need a 2 bowl sink waste kit with two washing machine connection points (one for the boiling water tap and 1 for the dishwasher)

Interresting point about a vent and a drain via a tundish. That is something I had not considered and will be somewhat harder now. The sink unit it will go in is already installed and plumbed. The only access I now have to a drain it the 40mm PVC waste coming into the sink unit through the back panel and I am pretty sure that is PVC not ABS (that can take boiling water) So I am not sure I now have access to a suitable drain without removing the sink unit (which will mean some un plumbing) and then re plumbing the waste up from the 110mm that goes into the floor. Are there any that don't need a blow off and drain via a tundish?

As long as it is 900mm high all the way (which that one may not be) Personally, I would have that as an "after sign off" project. You would need to make the stairs wider so they are still a compliant width with the tank in place. KM would approve, and you would instantly be on Grand Designs. I think your idea we discussed yesterday is less controversial

So it's nearly time to choose a boiling water tap for the kitchen. I want one that does conventional hot and cold water single lever mixer tap (i.e takes hot water for that from the DHW supply not from the boiling tank) And as a separate function (but in the same tap) dispenses boiling water from it's tank. I started looking at probably the best known brand Quooker, and started seeing prices over £1K. Sorry WAY too much. Howdens are offering their own Lamona brand 3 in 1 boiling water tap for £400. That's more the price, but I would be worried about spares going into the future. Others have trodden this path, so what did you buy, why, for how much and from where? Oh and are these eligible for a VAT claim, or are they classed as an "appliance" and exempt from the VAT claim?

My gripe with metal consumer units, is they tackled the "problem" from the wrong end. They did NOTHING to improve reliability of consumer units or find out WHY they caught fire (e.g looking at terminations, quality of switchgear etc) instead they put them in a tin box to try and contain the fire WHEN it happens.