ProDave

Building control will normally want to see a proper design based on a percolation test from which you can work out the area of land you need for the soakaway system.

So what you are proposing is an open infiltration field, which is not allowed. Cover it over and make it a proper underground infiltration field and the problem goes away.

The dry ditch thing is because effluent discharge to a watercourse needs a certain dilution ratio. Before SEPA would give me a discharge permit for the burn I had to set up a temporary V notch weir to measure the flow rate of the burn, and they then told me it was what they expected and the dilution rate would be acceptable. @joe90 I am sure has permission to discharge to a dry ditch.

Here are the log files. renamed as .txt files as the forum won't accept .log Some interesting errors relating to spotify (that I am not using) and some warnings about cryptography deprication? And some file errors scanning one of the local music files. But that album that throws up all the errors, plays perfectly. Any more ideas? The Mopidy forum seems pretty useless musicbox_startup.txt mopidy.log.txt

I have a car port to build about that size. When I can afford it and when I have finished building the house. It won't be that grand though.

How many cables do you have? You know you can get at least two, and sometimes three through a 20mm grommet.

In the good old days, there used to be a C4 category, compliant with an earlier version of the regs. When that was removed, a lot of those now end up as C3's. Nothing to worry about, it's only C2's and especially C1's that need to bother you.

^^ That map link shows an outline of my house, though not that detailed. If I search the "Registers Of Scotland (Land Registry for England and Wales) I get a much more detailed map, showing a much more accurate outline of my house, and the house name shown next to it. This land registry map seems to me the most detailed one available to view for free.

Yes it is surprising how many databases I have found our new house on. It seems to be on everything except the PAF which it seems it will only ever get listed on if I pay the £100. In spite of not being listed, Royal Mail have no difficulty delivering to us. It is definitely on the local council's internal street name database, they have told me that on several occasions, but whenever challenged officially they then deny that it is there.

Don't you think it is a little "creative" of the local council to tell me that getting my house mapped and added to the map databases is part of what will happen if I pay to register my house name? As far as I can tell everything that they say I need to pay for has happened apart from notifying the address to Royal Mail which they won't do unless I pay them £100.

Topical update. My plasterer was so worried about this that he phoned building control, and they confirmed they do not require any special paperwork for an ASHP install.

Yes but the regs still say 3% for lighting, 5% for everything else, but only 1% for solar pv. Even if you take the 5% figure I bet the cable size is going to be quite large.

This online mapping thing is interesting. The Land registry maps seem to show the outline of my house, and the static caravan quite accurately, though not my shed, so that gives a window of time when that was derived. I assume I too had "the visit" but was not present when he came. What is even more interesting is the maps also show my house name. That is even more interesting as I have not paid the council for a house name, and they tell me that updating the maps etc is part of the service I will get if ever I pay for the house name to be registered.......

Then perhaps the flow switch is playing up? But assuming a linear scale you have about 17l/min, which given the accuracy of the flow meter and the flow switch, is marginal for a 16L/min requirement. Turn the heating off. Shut off the isolators either side and you should be able to unscrew the top of the flow switch and check for debris, sticking mechanism etc. It will be interesting to see what is inside i.e. what sort of flow switch. P.S. you desperately need some pipe insulation on that lot. You must be wasting a lot of heat there and that cupboard will be roasting.

The "head" that a pump will work to, does not determine the flow rate directly. Our LG heat pump only needed 10L/min minimum and I could not achieve that with a single Wilo pump. It all depends on your pipework, and in my case it was simply too long and / or had too many bends, so I could not get the flow rate needed. Have you tried adjusting the speed on the pump? Looking again at your picture, you already have a flow meter in place. What is the flow meter reading showing? or if you don't know how to read it, post a macro photograph of the flow meter. It is the bit to the left of the flow switch with a little glass window to see the position of a plunger that moves according to the flow it is measuring.

Before we go any further: Has this EVER worked properly? i.e. it used to work properly but now it is giving this flow error? OR is it a new installation and it has always given this flow error right from the first time it was turned on? If the latter who installed it and what have they said?

You supply is a nominal 230V Wiring regs dictate that an installation must be designed for a maximum volt drop on lighting circuits of 3%. So broadly speaking you are allowed to lose 6.9 volts. Any more than that and it starts to become a nuisance that lights dim when you turn on a big load in the house, and in extreme cases too much voltage drop will render protective devices like circuit breakers ineffective as the fault current won't be high enough to make them trip quickly. So with a long run of cable, you end up having to fit cable that is far larger than what you might think you need just looking at maximum current ratings. This is why the DNO only route relatively short runs at 230V. Longer distribution runs are at 11KV where voltage drop is very much less of a problem.

Floor temperature of 28 degrees. If ours was that warm, we would cook. Those figures a few posts above are just a load of meaningless twaddle. you cannot change the laws of physics. The amount of KWh of heat a room needs to keep it at a particular temperature depends on the levels of insulation, and what the outside temperature is. If you choose to use resistance electric heating, then any system will cost the same. There is (ins spite of what some manufacturers like to imply) any particular make of resistance heater that is in any way more efficient than another make.

I had exactly the same issue with my (LG) ASHP when I installed it. At least Samsung tell you what the flow rate should be, LG didn't, I had to phone them and ask. What I did was install a flow meter in line with the pipework. That then showed me the flow rate was indeed less than it needed to be. I solved it by fitting a second circulating pump. My LG ASHP has a Wilo pump similar to yours built in. I now also have a Grundfoss pump half way along the flow pipe, and having two pumps running together solved the problem. Alternatively change that Wilo for something with a greater flow rate. Although I like Wilo pumps because they are quite, they are not the most powerful. But before you do that, does it always trip under a certain set of circumstances? e.g when you first turn the heating on, or when it switches from heating to hot water? If that is the case it could be a motorised valve taking too long to open and the bypass not giving enough flow.

As a rough costing, a local self build had to have 2 poles worth of 11KV line undergrounded. That cost him £10K with him digging the trenches and laying the duct. So if you have 10 poles worth that's going to be something like £40K!!! though I guess it won't scale linear. You really just need to get the DNO to come and talk to you and discuss options and give a quote or 2. Extending a low voltage line from your barn is going to be expensive once you work out just how massive and expensive the cable will need to be, to prevent excessive voltage drop.

Play nice gentlemen. The moderators are already discussing this. Let's concentrate on helping the OP with his problem rather than willy waving please.

That wget command via PuTTY returns exactly the same as yours gives. Except it reports a speed of only 5.86KB/s

I suspect this drain is not just to drain the present standing water. Rather they have realised the ground is poor draining so they want to build a French Drain around the extension with a permanent pipe for it to drain to, to keep the land dry and the water table down.

I haven't had chance to look at the log files yet. but I have plugged the tv in to see what it is doing when it boots. Lots of inode file errors at initial start, which it claims to fix and then restart. Perhaps there is an issue with the memory card or file system? Then right at the end, it tries to start playing Radio Caroline (my startup default) and says: Mopidy startup complete, playing http://sc5.radiocaroline.net:8010 error: connection closed by the server error: connection refused Does that give any clues?

Where does it go AFTER the septic tank? In the immediate future (Jan 2020) it is only septic tanks discharging to a watercourse that must be updated. If they discharge to an infiltration field there is currently no need to change anything. But I know several septic tanks here discharging to a watercourse and I don't see any sign of anyone preparing to upgrade to a treatment plant in the next few months.