ProDave

Howdens currently have Osmo Oil on sale at £25 (plus VAT) per litre.

We have got as far as designing the stained glass and making a full scale mock up of bits of cardboard cut out. We just need to cut some coloured glass and join it all together with some soldered lead. Simple. There is someone local that can help us but she is suffering from Long Covid (still the only person i know locally to have had it) and we are not supposed to meet others indoors anyway at the moment, so we have a route forward just not available right now, and I don't want this holding up completion, so that's why we have settled on plan B to do the stained glass later. I am actually sitting here wondering what I am going to do over the next few days, as I genuinely have run out of stuff to do on the house just now.

Yes with mvhr the supply air into the rooms will be a little colder than the room temperature, but that compared to uncontrolled trickle ventilation where the fresh air in would be a LOT colder than the room air. But just heating ALL the incoming air might overheat rooms that are already up to temperature.

Yes try and find a A/C engineer. He will have the tools to check the gas pressure. If it has lost it's gas then there might be a leak so he would probably want to investigate that first rather than just top it up.

At the moment it's a case of documenting exactly what happens when and in what order. So when cold, and after a power off reset, you have the circulating pump and fan running but no sound of the compressor running? Are there any lights in the inverter board? EDIT: Is that meant to be a video clip? I am just getting audio but it sounds like it might be the compressor running. I wonder if it's lost it's Fgas pressure? I would have thought it would throw a different error if it had, but a compressor running but not making heat would tie with loss of Fgas. But you would need an Fgas heat pump engineer to check it and re gas it if that were the case.

Would it not make more sense to just fit UFH upstairs? Do you actually need heating upstairs? I am one of several on here that doesn't. currently about 2 degrees outside (sub zero overnight) 20 degrees downstairs. 19.5 upstairs with no heating upstairs.

Tell them okay go ahead and we will accept a slow connection for now. Or just try a different provider? Why are so so set on Sky?

I think the right hand one with the 2 brown wires is a thermal cutout. With all power OFF, do you have a multimeter, if so what is the reading on ohms scale between the two brown wires? I take it you have done a complete power down to reset the fault code to let it try again? If that area is very hot, leave the power off completely for some time before trying again.

The path we trod to get here was somewhat different to what we had planned. All because we could not sell the old house a few years back. This shows you have to be flexible with your plans, and against all the odds we found a way through and money appeared, in dribs and drabs and we got there. The result of the slow build with more work done ourselves, is of course a cheaper build. And the payback for all the hard work, we still have the old house so when that eventually sells, the proceeds from that is now entirely for the retirement pot. Yes of course the word "finished" does not mean we will not do any more to the house. There are already some changes to make post completion, and everything is just painted white so the final decorating is to be done. And I didn't mention we don't have curtains or blinds, or even carpets upstairs, they are expenses that can wait until we know where we are with our final small pot of money. A big thank you to all the buildhubbers for helping to keep us going through thick and thin.

Our address is still not registered on the Postcode Database (long story, it might never get on that list) But we just chose the house name and have used it with every utility. The house name has found it's way onto every other address database except the Postcode Address File. the house name even appears on the Land Registry and OS maps together with a fairly accurate outline of the actual house on the maps. So is the "issue" that you have not chosen a house name or are waiting for someone to give you an official house number?

I would take the cover off, give it a heat demand and run outside to see what it is doing. Does the water circulating pump come on? Does the fan start up? Can you hear the compressor start up? Is the inverter that drives the compressor a stand alone unit and if so does it have any lights on it, if so what do they tell you? Re the immersion failing. I suspect all that tells you is the ASHP had failed earlier and it had been using the immersion as a backup heater and you had not noticed that the ASHP had failed?

Those that know of our build will know it's been going on, slowly, for 5 years now. It's had it's fair share of obstacles along the way, mostly caused by financial issues which means for much of the time it has been a slow "build as you earn" with the savings pot running on vapour. And 2020 threw it's share of obstacles at us, delayed supply of materials (I am just about calming down about Jewsons holding our multipanel hostage for 12 weeks) as well as difficulty getting trades etc. But the good news is, all bar sticking the last few bits of skirting board on (SWMBO is oiling them as i type) the main part of the house is FINISHED. And the icing on the cake is building control recently issued a Certificate of Temporary Habitation. So where from here? The next project is the sun room, the single storey room at the back of the house that has been a boarded up shell for several years, though it does have a proper roof on it. No 1 job in the new year is the VAT reclaim. Assuming they are not totally shut down and we can at least get a proportion of that (as they seem to be doing) then that, and the remaining dregs in the savings pot should give us enough to order the windows. Ordering and getting the windows is another unknown of course which may throw up it's own issues in the current climate. Then there is the Landing window. The plan had been to have a stained glass window here. This is proving extraordinarily difficult and complicated. So when we order the sun room windows we will be ordering a plain glass 3G glass unit for this window, and if we do push ahead with the stained glass idea later on, it will be as a stand alone unit to go inside the window rather than as the middle of a 3G pane. With those done, only one thing will hold up completion and that is the balcony. We are minded to "abandon" the balcony and BC have indicated they will accept that as long as there is a barrier across the door. So by fitting that barrier we could get completion sign off and still leave the option of building the balcony later when the finances have recovered a bit. There will still be post completion jobs like a car port and more work on the garden so I will still be working on this for another couple of years......

A quick google finds a fault code chart here https://www.manualslib.com/manual/876339/Kingspan-Aeromax-Plus-Air-Source-Heat-Pump-Package.html?page=10 Code 14 means "Loss of Signal From inverter board / High Temperature Release (Thermostat on compressor: 120° ± 4° C)" So unlikely to be related to a fault in the house plumbing.

I was hoping someone else with the same tap would post a picture of how it should be done?

So you are going to feed slightly warm water into the cold feed as a pre heat? I can see that saving some energy when it wants to heat the water, but when it's just rinsing and expecting cold water, you are then just wasting your warm water?

Why does anyone want to buy that? Or Danish butter, Or New Zealand Lamb? We "make" all of those here. I don't buy them because I object to the food miles.

Look carefully, I bet there is a fine jet of water spraying from somewhere around the white nut and that just happens to be where it lands. That brass bit will be full of water all the time and not affected by the blue tap. It may be as simple as the white nut is not even tight? It does seem to dismiss his statement that he tested it.

Unscrew the white nut, make sure there is a black rubber washer inside the nut, that is what seals it. To be honest this is not really the plumbers concern, this is your appliance, it it is leaking because of a faulty hose or missing washer it is your issue. But of course a decent plumber would sort it out of good will, but would be a bit peeved at having to make a special visit to do so. A bit like me attending because a light is not working, only to find there is no bulb in it.

Yes, turn that blue handle 90 degrees.

Turn the isolator off. Disconnect the hose at the dishwasher end. Hold that end over a bucket and open the isolator. Do you get lots of high pressure water out of the hose? If so it's not a plumbing problem but a dishwasher fault. If you only get a dribble of water then it's a plumbing fault.

I have not seen a WM that takes a hot feed for a very long time, and never seen a DW that does. They are all cold fill only. A common theme here is people putting the HW tank in the "plant room" I nearly fell into that mistake, but then relocated the HW tank to an airing cupboard formed in the forned of the spare bedroom to put the HW tank central to all points of use.

The commonly used concentric cable, damage to outer sheath or poor (non waterproof) underground junction. Water gets in, outer conductor corrodes and fails. For the inner to fail, the insulation to that would also have to fail but since it's inside it's unlikely to get damaged so much less likely. I have seen it in a house, the DNO had to dig up a lot of his driveway before they found the fault. Many argue the concentric cable is a poor design.

Depends on the manufacturers instructions. My twin wall still demands to be 50mm from combustible materials even though it barely gets warm to the touch on the outside.

I have a 5kW LG ASHP heating a similar sized house. Mitsubishi Ecodan is a popular choice and they do a 6kW size.

So you have a stub of 5" pipe hanging down from the ceiling fitting. You just need new 5" pipe with a female socket at the top and appropriate fitting to the stove at the bottom. And a trim panel to go on the ceiling. That ceiling hole should be enlarged, should be at least 50mm from the flue, perhaps more.