ProDave

The secret for multiple services crossing the same road is get ONE of them to install their service, preferably water as that goes deeper. Then while the road is open, drop in ducts (with draw strings) for the other services, black for electricity, grey for telecoms. Then you can get the other services connected on the basis a duct under the road is already waiting for them. This is exactly what we did.

It is NOT a Heatmiser problem. the Heatmiser unit operates the same way as just about every other UFH controller, so it is not because you have bought an unusual UFH system, so take that out of the argument. You would have just the same issue if you were trying to run a bunch of radiators with a time clock and a room thermostat. The issue is you TOLD them it was going to feed UFH so anyone specifying the heat pump should know it will need a "call for heat" input which might alternatively be described as a room thermostat input. So on the basis of what you told them, they have specified and supplied an ASHP without the controller that it is normally supplied with. so now you need to go back to your supplier / specifier and tell them what they have supplied is NOT FIT FOR PURPOSE and to take it back for a refund, or make it fit for purpose (by supplying the controller)

You need to do an insulation resistance check with a megger, most likely the immersion heater element is faulty. such faults often only show when the heater gets hot.

Our connection was made in a connection pit about 1 metre square. Within the grass verge but right adjacent to the single track road.

So presumably inside that "box with no controls" are all the terminals for call for heat, thermostat or whatever they choose to call them? That box with no controls is the "inside unit" they referred to I thought. but agreed that is what he needs.

No way to use the single cable. You need a dedicated "high priority" circuit in the house to just feed the essential stuff, and THAT needs to be fed from the batteries via a changeover relay. So you will need a separate feed from the back up supply in the garage, into the house, and some controls to make it change over when the main power goes off. And I think it's performance will be poor. In winter (i.e. now) the output from your panels will be disappointing, P.S. What makes you think 2021 will be the year of power cuts?

I am not seeing anything in the documentation yet that shows a "call for heat" input demand to the heat pump. Is this a special or strange version? Others with Mitsubishi ASHP's have found "room thermostat" inputs that do the job of call for heat. It is the ASHP end that is the issue at the moment, not the Heatmiser. Fig 6.1 refers to A, "Indoor Unit" which implies it has control inputs. Do you have the "indoor unit" and the manual for it, if not I think you need to get it. And this "indoor unit" is not the controller that peter linked to, that is C in Fig 6.1

The cables should either lie on the ceiling with the insulation on top, or the cables should be on top of the insulation. The cables should NOT end up in between 2 layers of insulation.

Can you post more of the HP manual, not enough information there. S1,S2 and S3 appear to be power to the indoor unit. It's the indoor unit you need details of I think?

Hi and welcome. Bear in mind French regs will differ from UK regs so we may not know all the answers.

That control panel should be capable of controlling lots of things including lots of setup parameters. Amongst them will almost certainly be maximum water flow temperatures. But they can be fiendishly complicated things which is why I chose not to use the timer functions on mine and treat it as just a way of accessing setup parameters.

Or plastic pipes.

What make and model is the ASHP? There should be a setting for water flow temperature, that is the one you want to slowly increase. Read the manual or post the details and someone might know your particular HP. Why is it only pre heating the DHW? you should be able to heat it to at least 50 degrees usually with an ASHP. That looks like a standard boiler programmer. Is there another unit specific to the ASHP where you can set the parameters?

The "issue" he found is toilets are not precision engineered, and in this case the back is not exactly 90 degrees to the bottom. He needed to get the cabinet panel correct and seal the varying width gap. No doubt he will blame the imperfect toilet.

E10 would be my choice because the 10 hours of cheap rate are spread in 3 bursts including a useful early afternoon period. Getting them to remove a smart meter and replace it with a normal dual rate meter might be an uphill challenge, do let us know how you get on.

The kitchen worktops if "supply and fit" should have been zero rated by the installer. You need to go back to them, point out this was a new build house and it should have been zero rated and for them to refund the VAT you have paid. you will not be able to claim that back any other way. Our worktop fitter did that, they would not commit to zero rating until their surveyor had been to the house to measure up and then he was happy to confirm it was indeed a new build house in the process of being built and zero rated the invoice.

Noise In my experience Wilo are quietest, followed by Grundfoss. Some of the cheaper ones can be downright noisy. My UFH manifolds came with cheap ones and I soon swapped them for Wilo

What have others with the same Qooker tap done to support this valve then?

Yes but it seems to make buyers and lenders a bit more comfortable with the situation.

This comes up in property buying and selling websites a lot. The timescale for building control to take action is quite short, only a few years, so in a great many cases if the work can be proved to have been done outside the time for enforcement action, then the resolution is an indemnity policy, but that can only be purchased if you have not contacted BCO about it. Did you get a statement from he vendor saying when the loft conversion was done? That date is crucial in knowing how to proceed.

Why not just tell the builder that did the extension, that the insulation is not fitted properly and does not conform to building regs so they must come back and do the job properly at their own expense and you will check their work as they progress to ensure it is being done properly.

^^ get a proper computer with a proper keyboard. I can't abide these touch screen things (yes I am an old stick in the mud)

Yes the heat enable from the UFH controller is effectively the logical OR of all the room thermostats for the whole UFH system, so connect the heat enable from the UFH controller as a "room thermostat" in that diagram.

Controls vary a lot between 1 make of ASHP and another, but there should be some kind of "call for heat" input to the ASHP which as @PeterW says should be connected and the ASHP will stop when all the rooms are up to temperature. But even so, just left running, the ASHP would run at a very low duty cycle just circulating the heating loop with little loss from it so I am at a loss to know where 50kWh of electricity is going per day. Look at the manual for the ASHP and find what sort of demand input it has and connect that to the call for heat from the manifold for now. But later when you comission the radiators you will also need a call for heat for those as well.

If the insulation just goes over the joists with nothing in between, then you will have a gap between the ceiling and the insulation. Then at the ends, it is very likely that gap to some extent will be open to the cold loft allowing cold air under the insulation totally negating all it's good work. What many people fail to appreciate is is to be effective, insulation needs to be installed carefully to ensure there are no paths for cold air to bypass the insulation. this is easiest achieved by filling the whole area totally with no gaps, then putting the next layer on the same, with no gaps etc.