ProDave

Turn the isolator off. Disconnect the hose at the dishwasher end. Hold that end over a bucket and open the isolator. Do you get lots of high pressure water out of the hose? If so it's not a plumbing problem but a dishwasher fault. If you only get a dribble of water then it's a plumbing fault.

I have not seen a WM that takes a hot feed for a very long time, and never seen a DW that does. They are all cold fill only. A common theme here is people putting the HW tank in the "plant room" I nearly fell into that mistake, but then relocated the HW tank to an airing cupboard formed in the forned of the spare bedroom to put the HW tank central to all points of use.

The commonly used concentric cable, damage to outer sheath or poor (non waterproof) underground junction. Water gets in, outer conductor corrodes and fails. For the inner to fail, the insulation to that would also have to fail but since it's inside it's unlikely to get damaged so much less likely. I have seen it in a house, the DNO had to dig up a lot of his driveway before they found the fault. Many argue the concentric cable is a poor design.

Depends on the manufacturers instructions. My twin wall still demands to be 50mm from combustible materials even though it barely gets warm to the touch on the outside.

I have a 5kW LG ASHP heating a similar sized house. Mitsubishi Ecodan is a popular choice and they do a 6kW size.

So you have a stub of 5" pipe hanging down from the ceiling fitting. You just need new 5" pipe with a female socket at the top and appropriate fitting to the stove at the bottom. And a trim panel to go on the ceiling. That ceiling hole should be enlarged, should be at least 50mm from the flue, perhaps more.

The point is, with PME delivered by a concentric cable with a combined N and Earth conductor, in the event of the PEN failing (not unknown) the N AND E potential can rise to close to L potential. That is VERY bad news for someone trying to enter a metal static caravan that has it's chassis bonded to E. While standing on the ground (true earth) he could touch a metal door that is at 240V. Same for an earthed power tool being used on site. Yhis is why the site power sockets and static caravans etc should be TT earthed. I still have the PME earth next to my supply head which is used to feed the house. The static caravan is not earthed to this, rather it is earthed to a rod banged into the ground just next to the 'van. It's just that some DNO's if they think this is a site supply do not give you any earth terminal at the supply head to force you to provide your own earth,

What are you doing outside? You need your paving / decking or at least a step set so the sill rests on that.

What I am trying to establish is which rooms are meeting their temperature and the floor heating has turned off. Which have still to reach their temperature and the heating is on. Then there are the other possibilities. The room has not met it's temperature but the floor is cold. The room is above it's set temperature and the floor is still warm. You would not be the first to have the wrong thermostat connected to the wrong room. go get that handheld thermometer.......

Give it a bit more time yet. Then go around with a handheld thermometer and see what the actual temperature is in each room. That will start to tell you if you have issues. Let us know what you find.

I assume that 22 degree reading is the "set point" If so all the rooms that have reached that temperature will have switched off and the floors cooled down. The rooms that have not yet reached 22 degrees will still be warming up and the floor will feel warm.

This is what I did in our 'van

I don't recognise that fitting. Where does it go? Into the top of the stove? Perhaps start with pictures of what you have and what you are trying to join to what? e.g do you have the stove? What foes through the roof of the 'van at the moment etc?

Nobody checked my earthing. Sometimes the DNO do not provide an earth terminal with a TBS forcing you to install your own.

Are you sure that heating estimate is right? That's over 10 times my heating usage. Lets hope the real world figures come out lower.

Can you show a much closer view of the velux window and it's flashing? I suspect the tiles at the sides are too far away from the window, and missing the first rain barrier, and in heavy rain some is getting under, running down the felt and finding your nail hole.

My reading of this is he has moved buildings on the map, presumably to make it appear his proposals will affect them less than it really will. I would post a comment to the planners stating the map is wrong and enclosing a correct up to date OS map. I would not claim fraud, just firmly point out that the planners might want to check the maps submitted with the application very carefully because they do not appear to correspond with an up to date OS map you have just paid for.

Are you sure? I thought yo needed an inactive actuator screwed on to push the pin in to stop the flow? Removing an actuator for me has always turned the flow on. I have some manual knobs you can screw on if you want full manual control.

Yes I know someone that pulled out of a purchase (against my advice) because of this. The house had 4kWp solar PV on the original high FIT for 25 years and that would have been transferred to the new owner. But the surveyor raised doubts about the roof structure and the panels. They ended up buying an inferior house without panels.

The circulation pumps on the manifold are just to circulate the water around the loops. The pump between the GSHP and buffer is doing it's job of circulating the water between them. But there is nothing to circulate the water from the buffer to the manifolds. the manifold pumps as you can see do a very poor job of getting heat from the buffer. So you want an additional pump between the buffer and the UFH manifolds.

So try my suggestion a few posts up, that was not intended as a fix, but a possible way to get the heating un until it is fixed properly.

My suggestion would be turn off that zone, screw the flow meter down to minimum setting which may or may not shut it off completely. Reduce the system pressure as low as you can before the boiler or whatever heat source complains and then try running it to see if it leaks.

Settled down to watch NEW: George Clarke's Amazing Spaces, only to find I have seen it all before.?

Well they have the floor down, and the first lot of ICF ready to pour, then COVID. It's really going to slow down now then? So I assume their build is not yet finished?

BC have not questioned my DIY solar PV. Why would they? MCS is only needed for the now defunct FIT or to claim the present export payment scheme. If the barn is adjacent to your house, connect them and use them.