ProDave

The point is, with PME delivered by a concentric cable with a combined N and Earth conductor, in the event of the PEN failing (not unknown) the N AND E potential can rise to close to L potential. That is VERY bad news for someone trying to enter a metal static caravan that has it's chassis bonded to E. While standing on the ground (true earth) he could touch a metal door that is at 240V. Same for an earthed power tool being used on site. Yhis is why the site power sockets and static caravans etc should be TT earthed. I still have the PME earth next to my supply head which is used to feed the house. The static caravan is not earthed to this, rather it is earthed to a rod banged into the ground just next to the 'van. It's just that some DNO's if they think this is a site supply do not give you any earth terminal at the supply head to force you to provide your own earth,

What are you doing outside? You need your paving / decking or at least a step set so the sill rests on that.

What I am trying to establish is which rooms are meeting their temperature and the floor heating has turned off. Which have still to reach their temperature and the heating is on. Then there are the other possibilities. The room has not met it's temperature but the floor is cold. The room is above it's set temperature and the floor is still warm. You would not be the first to have the wrong thermostat connected to the wrong room. go get that handheld thermometer.......

Give it a bit more time yet. Then go around with a handheld thermometer and see what the actual temperature is in each room. That will start to tell you if you have issues. Let us know what you find.

I assume that 22 degree reading is the "set point" If so all the rooms that have reached that temperature will have switched off and the floors cooled down. The rooms that have not yet reached 22 degrees will still be warming up and the floor will feel warm.

This is what I did in our 'van

I don't recognise that fitting. Where does it go? Into the top of the stove? Perhaps start with pictures of what you have and what you are trying to join to what? e.g do you have the stove? What foes through the roof of the 'van at the moment etc?

Nobody checked my earthing. Sometimes the DNO do not provide an earth terminal with a TBS forcing you to install your own.

Are you sure that heating estimate is right? That's over 10 times my heating usage. Lets hope the real world figures come out lower.

Can you show a much closer view of the velux window and it's flashing? I suspect the tiles at the sides are too far away from the window, and missing the first rain barrier, and in heavy rain some is getting under, running down the felt and finding your nail hole.

My reading of this is he has moved buildings on the map, presumably to make it appear his proposals will affect them less than it really will. I would post a comment to the planners stating the map is wrong and enclosing a correct up to date OS map. I would not claim fraud, just firmly point out that the planners might want to check the maps submitted with the application very carefully because they do not appear to correspond with an up to date OS map you have just paid for.

Are you sure? I thought yo needed an inactive actuator screwed on to push the pin in to stop the flow? Removing an actuator for me has always turned the flow on. I have some manual knobs you can screw on if you want full manual control.

Yes I know someone that pulled out of a purchase (against my advice) because of this. The house had 4kWp solar PV on the original high FIT for 25 years and that would have been transferred to the new owner. But the surveyor raised doubts about the roof structure and the panels. They ended up buying an inferior house without panels.

The circulation pumps on the manifold are just to circulate the water around the loops. The pump between the GSHP and buffer is doing it's job of circulating the water between them. But there is nothing to circulate the water from the buffer to the manifolds. the manifold pumps as you can see do a very poor job of getting heat from the buffer. So you want an additional pump between the buffer and the UFH manifolds.

So try my suggestion a few posts up, that was not intended as a fix, but a possible way to get the heating un until it is fixed properly.

My suggestion would be turn off that zone, screw the flow meter down to minimum setting which may or may not shut it off completely. Reduce the system pressure as low as you can before the boiler or whatever heat source complains and then try running it to see if it leaks.

Settled down to watch NEW: George Clarke's Amazing Spaces, only to find I have seen it all before.?

Well they have the floor down, and the first lot of ICF ready to pour, then COVID. It's really going to slow down now then? So I assume their build is not yet finished?

BC have not questioned my DIY solar PV. Why would they? MCS is only needed for the now defunct FIT or to claim the present export payment scheme. If the barn is adjacent to your house, connect them and use them.

The secret for multiple services crossing the same road is get ONE of them to install their service, preferably water as that goes deeper. Then while the road is open, drop in ducts (with draw strings) for the other services, black for electricity, grey for telecoms. Then you can get the other services connected on the basis a duct under the road is already waiting for them. This is exactly what we did.

It is NOT a Heatmiser problem. the Heatmiser unit operates the same way as just about every other UFH controller, so it is not because you have bought an unusual UFH system, so take that out of the argument. You would have just the same issue if you were trying to run a bunch of radiators with a time clock and a room thermostat. The issue is you TOLD them it was going to feed UFH so anyone specifying the heat pump should know it will need a "call for heat" input which might alternatively be described as a room thermostat input. So on the basis of what you told them, they have specified and supplied an ASHP without the controller that it is normally supplied with. so now you need to go back to your supplier / specifier and tell them what they have supplied is NOT FIT FOR PURPOSE and to take it back for a refund, or make it fit for purpose (by supplying the controller)

You need to do an insulation resistance check with a megger, most likely the immersion heater element is faulty. such faults often only show when the heater gets hot.

Our connection was made in a connection pit about 1 metre square. Within the grass verge but right adjacent to the single track road.

So presumably inside that "box with no controls" are all the terminals for call for heat, thermostat or whatever they choose to call them? That box with no controls is the "inside unit" they referred to I thought. but agreed that is what he needs.

No way to use the single cable. You need a dedicated "high priority" circuit in the house to just feed the essential stuff, and THAT needs to be fed from the batteries via a changeover relay. So you will need a separate feed from the back up supply in the garage, into the house, and some controls to make it change over when the main power goes off. And I think it's performance will be poor. In winter (i.e. now) the output from your panels will be disappointing, P.S. What makes you think 2021 will be the year of power cuts?