ProDave

Clearly we are not "most people" then because I keep trying and failing to find anywhere we "waste" energy. The only savings I can see is cook less, wash us or our clothes less. watch less television, don't keep food in a fridge or freezer, sit in the dark at night or sit in a cold house.

They DO get hot, that's because they have a finite non zero "on" resistance so there are losses proportional to the load drawn. The SSR for my solar PV dump is attached to a reasonable size heat sink and gets just pleasantly warm at full load.

Worth also researching early on how you would get service connections. e.g. if the only sewer connection has to pass through part of the garden the neighbour was keeping. If so you would want a wayleave included in the sale to allow that.

That is what we have done but eventually (the sooner the better) the spare house will need to be sold to become part of the retirement pot. That has just deferred (and increased) the CGT bill that will eventually have to be paid.

V2/R =3.61W Might be less as it's an inductive load on ac

I used Findr relay from CPC with a small plug in din rail base. I never measured the coil power consumption, but none seemed to get hot, certainly not 67 degrees hot. and they were less than £10 for relay and base.

It is CGT exempt for all the time they lived in it as their main residence, and the last 9 months of ownership regardless. So they will be liable for CGT for the period it was let, less 9 months. Hmrc take the purchase price and sale price and assume linear growth throughout the ownership, no good saying "but house prices fell that year" If is jointly owned, you will each be liable for half the CGT. and before you pay anything you each have your personal CGT allowance to use up. So if it has only been let a couple of years it might well be the gain is below the joint cgt threshold and there is nothing to pay.

Only one party is building a house. The simplest way would be for that party to buy the bit of garden from the neighbour and then just get on with it. I would suggest a fair price to pay for the bit of garden is half the value of a building plot, and there would be no overage clause or anything. Then the building family own the whole lot and take care of organising the build, CIL etc. Do an outline PP application first and once that is granted, buy the land. If you want to make it formal, make an offer to buy the land subject to PP being granted.

Here is my version of a pallet shed

IF smart meters were implemented properly, then your supplier would have not only half hourly readings of your usage, but also readings of your export. The admin would be tiny to credit your bill with everything you exported at an agreed rate, say half of your import rate. There would be no need to "set anything up" or insist you register with some smart export scheme and produce MCS paperwork to do so. It is silly schemes like that that bury the issue under a ton of paperwork. And when it comes to paying the energy wholesalers, your "usage" would be your import less your export, and that much is what your supplier would pay the wholesaler for. It staggers me how we seem to manage to make something so simple, into such a complicated problem.

I think it relies on the hot feed to the manifold being driven by a circulating pump of it's own, so the hot water arrives under slight pressure and the return is relatively under slight vacuum. The position of the manifold circulating pump means it is pulling water into the bottom of the pump so it will be a blend of fresh hot and recirculated cold going through the manifold pump. Assuming it was working but has stopped, I would suspect either the manifold pump, or the main circulating pump has failed with my bet being the manifold pump has failed. If it's not on it's full speed setting already, try increasing it?

Even if gas doubles from it's already high price, it will still be cheaper than electricity. Electric boilers only make sense if you can run them on an off peak tariff.

He does that because he wants to use the flue gas analyser to set up the burner and he wants to ensure the boiler keeps on burning and does not shut off, so turning the t'stat up will give it a longer burn and time to do his adjustments. It does not mean it should be left that high and really he should set it back where it was before he came to do the service.

Well I went for ground mount to at least get away from some of the shading by the trees. It had to be raised off the ground so see over the bank behind us. I chose an east / west split to try and get longer meaningful generation rather than peak generation (easier to self use). Then when the mounting frame was up and the panels were on, it was a no brainer to enclose the sides and make the "Swiss chalet solar shed"

It is the output temperature you want to turn down, not the boiler power.

You are paying for the privilege of someone sourcing all the bits and selling you a kit. I put together s similar system by seeking out the very cheapest components individually for about £1500. Not much over £2000 would be my target. There are some astonishing claims of how much you might save on that website as well. Even your estimate of £800 per year savings is optomistic. My system is a little poorer due to a lot of shading and being a lot further north but I am self using in the region of £300 worth in a year. I think you would be doing well if you saved £600 in a year. As you have a paddock, could you not build a shelter for the horses with a nice south facing roof and mount the panels on there? I believe the horse shelter would be permitted development.

So this is the overheat thermostat tripping, not the burner lockout that is usually referred to as lockout. Assuming this over heat thermostat therefore is on the return pipe, and the problem only happens when nothing in the system is actually taking any heat out, so the return temp is pretty much the same as the flow temp, then I would suggest the boiler flow temp is too high. Since you can't adjust the over heat thermostat trip temperature I would reduce the flow temperature from the boiler so that the flow temperature is comfortably lower that the over heat trip temperature.

The elephant in the room is for anything over 4kWp (actually 3.68kW limited by the inverter) you need prior permission from your DNO before you connect it, and there may be a fee to even apply, and there may be network upgrade costs to pay before you are allowed to connect that much. This is why 4kWp is such a common size, it is the largest you can connect by right, without having to seek prior approval and you only notify the DNO after is has been connected. If you have 3 phase, you can connect 4kWp per phase so up to 12kWp may be possible without prior approval. Don't for one moment think PV will do all your needs. It won't. In the summer it will generate loads more than you can use very often, in the winter when you need most energy it will not produce enough. We have a typical 4kWp system and manage to use almost all we generate and that is saving us about £300 per year, about 1/4 of our total electricity usage. Even if we had 4 times as much PV it would not do all our needs as in summer it would generate way more thay we could ever use or store, and in winter it would still be only generatig a tiny fraction of our needs.

Which ASHP? To be honest i have not encountered one with full PID control. PID is something normally used in machine control or on furnaces etc where you are after both accurate and fast response. That does not normally apply to an ASHP heating a house.

The idea of weather compensation is to reduce the temperature of the delivered water when less heat is required to improve the COP. Personally i maintain that to set that up you need to know some data about the performance. So what you first need to find out, is on the very coldest days in winter, what flow temperature do you need to get the house up to the required temperature. Only then when you know that can you begin to play with the weather compensation curve, experimenting with the other end of the curve to see how much you can reduce the temperature by in mild weather. So for this season at least stay with compensation off. If you are really running at 50 degree flow temperature, those COP figures look good. How are you calculating the COP? or what is measuring the "delivered" power? The big question to start with, is with a constant flow temperature is the house getting hot enough?

Try https://www.bpcventilation.com/ A well known company offering mvhr systems etc and frequently recommended on the forum.

Well you would need a buffer tank feeding whichever you are pre heating, with an immersion heater in it, and a solar PV diverter to send excess power to the immersion. You would also have to determine of the shower or combi will be happy with a warm, or possibly very hot feed into them.

Here is a picture of it in progress. You see the UFH pipes with the spreader plates suspended on the strips of chipboard flooring, then on top was 18mm ply, glued and screwed to hell then the tiles. The bits with UFH missed out, on the right is where the row of units will go, and on the left, there is an area left out where there is provision for one day fitting a shower (and then dividing the room in two) so no UFH where the shower might one day be installed.

Do something similar to what i did in our utility room. This is just a mock up when i was working out the detail, I can't immediately find a picture of the actual thing. so you have a chipboard floor down screwed and glued. Cut strips of chipboard to match your pipe spacing and lay them across the floor so they are spanning joist to joist (on top of the chipboard. Under floor heating pipes with aluminium spreader plates laid on top. Final floor covering laid over that, shown in this mockup with a strip of chipboard, this will be your engineered floor boards.

New build or retro fit? What insulation is under the floor?