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offthepiste's Achievements


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  1. Hi @Ommm did conclude I was mad. So option is possibly adding a cooling unit as part of MVHR. Current plans are Zehnder ConfoAir Q600 with Enthalpy (have been flamed already on this!) and therefore considering ComfoCool Q600 as add on. May either do it now or design for it later. Has anyone got any recommendations for radiators? My guess is that they will be aluminium as we will operate at low temperature. GF will be UFH throughout. ASHP will be a Viessmann split unit.
  2. Am I mad? I am considering using radiators for cooling. We will be relatively airtight and insulated with an MVHR and ASHP with UFH on the ground floor with low temperature, e.g. yet to be decided but probably aluminium, radiators on the uppers floors. Radiator pipework will be plastic and located in underfloor / ceiling voids. Googling around and reading through this post, including https://github.com/aerona-chofu-ashp/docs/blob/main/guides/cooling.md I see comments regarding condensation and effectiveness. Has anyone got real life experience of this or has a strong view against such an idea? Cheers ... enjoy the hot weather whilst it lasts!
  3. @SteamyTea Wow ... whilst I live down "in the smoke" pollution from vehicles, at least where we live, is thankfully not an issue though we support the low emission zones. Our neighbours, typically yummy, tend to own at least two vehicles one of which is usually of the 'Chelsea tractor' massive 4x4 type. We even have one who has two Land Rover types with multiple jerry cans strapped to the roof - I suppose I was young once.
  4. Hi @JohnMo wish to ensure relative humidity levels are maintained between 50-60% as we will have extensive and very expensive wide plank wood flooring throughout. We are based in London and our house has always been very dry - there are just the two of us and it is large and being an old Victorian is (was) very drafty - I monitored relative humidity from Jan through April which was between 35 - 40% so have concluded that our energy improvement measures particularly MVHR might even further reduce this at worst. Therefore, de risking with enthalpy unit. Thank you for your feedback. Do you have any thoughts regarding @Ultima357 solution re wood smoke? This is probably my greatest concern going forward. Wood burners are a fashion accessory in these parts along with farrow & Ball etc.
  5. Our Enerphit’ish renovation is well underway and am thinking ahead regarding air quality both from the point of at project completion and ongoing thereafter. I have got a thing about particulates, e.g. PM2.5, particularly (hah) because of the idiots (we are inner London) and yummy parents who have installed wood burners which have previously caused serious breathing problems for us in our very drafty Victorian. I also have been ruminating about Formaldehyde off gassing particularly immediately post renovation. So some thoughts, and would be interested in any feedback: Materials We will be largely using wood fibre IWI but I still need consider its formaldehyde content. Also, use of MDF, e.g. for built in furniture / kitchen units, which is available as low / zero Formaldehyde products such as from Medite, who were incredibly helpful when I called them up. Project completion In researching PM2.5 air quality monitors came across a very interesting website https://smartairfilters.com/en/which has lots of very useful info in particular https://smartairfilters.com/en/blog/how-to-run-formaldehyde-cookout/#more-20301 which outlines an approach to accelerate formaldehyde gassing off after a renovation. I am very tempted to do this but need to understand what the impact might be to our planned engineered wood flooring on basis I would use temporary electric heaters to raise the house temperature and how I would need to set the MVHR (will be Zehnder enthalpy unit). Ongoing Wood smoke I am going to see about installing an active carbon filter something like as described by @Ultima357 in comment https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/22212-mvhr-active-carbon-filter/#comment-348128 as well as a F7 filter on MVHR intake to mitigate wood burner smoke. Cooking Inevitably am going to have recirculating hob extractor but am either going to add an active carbon filter or something like the https://www.plasmamadefilters.co.uk plasma unit though would be interested to know how effective these actually are. Also, there will a MVHT ceiling extract in the ceiling somewhere. Air quality monitor I will probably have something like the ‘Airthings View Plus’ monitor as it can be used with Homekit (we are an Apple household) and possibly small air purifier, if monitoring highlights a problem, such as the https://smartairfilters.com/en/product/the-sqair-chemical-warfare/.
  6. Have read through all posts that I can find related to my question. However, not found anything that exactly helps my head scratching. Also, wonder if anyone has had more experience with their own situation. We are about to select engineered oak wood flooring – planks @200m width +/- 10-20 to be fitted on out ground floor above a newly laid concrete floor with wet UFH taking into account humidity etc. Concrete floor will be well insulated along with reasonably airtight and insulated house done as part of our Enerphit’ish renovations. UFH will operate at “low”, temperature, e.g. average equal or just below 27 degrees, as per wood supplier advice and to optimise the ASHP. My dilemma is whether to go for 13/14mm or 20mm thick planks. The 13/14mm will only have top layer 3mm Oak and the 20mm will have 5mm. I will sort of feel safer with 5mm than 3mm in case of need to re-sand. However, there is just the two of us with no kids or animals and we are quite careful. Also, appreciate that 20mm will be more thermally insulating than 13/14mm but we plan to run heating almost 24/7. But 20mm costs more than13/14mm. Also, probably have a couple of large oriental rugs in front & rear living rooms but assuming that this will be OK. Any advice or experiences gratefully received, cheers to all.
  7. Useful info ... looking to install Sunpower Maxeon 5 AC (fitted expanse micro inverters) in two separate strings on two separate flat roofs. Came across this reasonably current Sunpower 'Safety and Installation Instructions for AC modules' dated 2021which I assume may apply to UK installs. https://sunpower.maxeon.com/uk/sites/default/files/2021-06/Safety and Installation Instructions for AC Modules 537620 RevD Final.pdf Seems to have pretty clear advice on grounding / earthing. Only question I have is whether I need to ground with separate, say copper, cable to a grounding plate / pole buried in the earth or whether I am over thinking this. Advice gratefully accepted! Cheers to all
  8. Still ruminating over how we should handle our kitchen extractor. Research suggests that overhead updraft is better than downdraft, so sort of decision made there. However, given how and what I tend to cook - a lot of fish on top on griddle / bring pan and also under grill - and what I have read about particulates from cooking ... would really like a proper extractor and not a recirculating unit. However, as everyone will know this is an issue with an airtight'ish house and need to balance output and input air supply. @Iceverge post re Naber got me looking their other products .. there is one which looks like it would work.. https://www.naber.de/en-bixo-balancer-waste-and-fresh-air-wall-conduct-s13823/ BUT ... how reliable will this be in the long term??? Either in maintaining the (I guess Bluetooth) pairing between the input & output vents and also the twisting of fabric to make it "airtight" when extractor not in use. I prefer to keep things simple .. so suspect, unless anyone has a brilliant suggestion .. to go for recirculating. In respect of recirculating extractors did a bit of searching regarding plasma filters and came across this https://www.plasmamadefilters.co.uk so was wondering if it would be possible to retain the normal washable grease filter and then belt and brace it with a plasma filter. I think there may be available extractor hoods which include plasmas but they may be a bit pricey. Also want to minimise grease etc in the MVHR units. Cheers
  9. Hi @SteamyTea From what I can work out no shading issue, panels will be at about 155 degrees, and I overlaid a sun map https://www.gaisma.com over google map and also used https://findmyshadow.com where you can specify 3d shapes ... I was originally worried but looks like not an issue.
  10. As we will need a new tumble drier have been looking at ones with heat pumps such as Miele TCR780WP rated at an average 174kWh per year
  11. Hi @ProDave hah.... yes, I am a bit anal, and have scoured various white goods and other electrical devices specs as well as statistics and common sense to estimate both DWH and DE usage even spitting kWh required to heat water (estimate 12 degrees) to 55 or so degrees for dishwasher and washing machine and then estimating energy used for pumps etc, e.g. we have 2 Macbook pros always on charge, 2 iPad pros, as well as about 5 iPhones (!!!) and large screen etc which I have estimated at 357 kWh for 1 hour each a day 365 days. Have estimated direct electricity is 2,560 kWh / year and DWH is 6,028 kWh / year
  12. @pdf27 & @BenP Hi, keen to retain our existing and relatively (25 year) new clay tiles (Victorian house). New dormer is partially for energy improvements but also a platform for potential Solar PV panels. If I was to go Solar PV I had been looking at the Sunpower Maxeon 3 400W which seem to be the most efficient on the market - however am going to hold off. Agree re MVHR - it will be a pleasure to have better air as well and also UFH at 35 deg. Highly likely will get an ASHP for UFH and possibly use for DWH at some time - using overnight cheap rates. Am working on assumption - having read various posts - that will run UFH during the day say for 15 hours rather than 24/7.
  13. Hi @joth will be tackling the roof - complete rework and new dormers etc. basically ripping the insides and outsides out. Plan to pre position cabling or at least ducting & possibly thin ply fixings for Solar Pv and possibly battery cabling - the latter would go in the garden as I believe there is a yet to surface risk of domestic battery fires and want to keep it well away from house if ever I get around to one.
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