ProDave

That's not the right way. Get an electrician to correct it. It should be DNO meter, Henley block, solar consumer unit, generation meter, AC isolator, inverter.

Happy user of the Conder plant here. I avoided the likes of the biodisk as I have seen first hand one with a jammed gearbox, and I firmly declined the job of trying to fix it for the reason you have mentioned. There is in some designs of the air blower plants a lack of detail in the designs and some have found the blower is noisy as it has in effect been sat on the skin of a drum and a few have done modifications to improve it. I believe the Graff plants deliberately mount the blower remote from the tank and a small in ground brick chamber would be a good place to mount the blower so it could not be heard.

It would be acceptable if as a very minimum it was 2 layers of 15mm fireline plasterboard with staggered joints and joints taped and filled.

The AC isolator will isolate the inverter side of the meter, and the MCB in the consumer unit will isolate the output side of the meter. It must be worth a try to see if it recovers, but unlikely.

Is there a fan isolator switch (there usually is) If so turn that off, it isolates neutral as well.

I use RG6 sat cable, BUT make sure it's all copper, avoid the aluminium versions.

Not come across that problem. You obviously need a new meter, and you will have to contact your FIT provider. I don't know there procedure whether they estimate based on previous generation, or assume your new meter (which will read 000000) was swapped at the last valid reading they received. That Elster is a common meter so I don't know what else to suggest. I just tend to look for whatever is cheap on ebay, but it must be mew and must be certified as a generation meter.

Oh hold on, that's completely different to anything I have seen before, so ignore what I said previously. It seems to be some different form of fitting, in which case the Salus actuators might not fit that manifold. We need someone who has seen that type before........

A meaningless figure, about 3.4kWh per week. We only use ours (condensing dryer so at least the heat stays in the house and for half the year is useful) about half an hour, 3 times a week, so if it has a 2kW heating element that will be about 3kWh. The key to minimising use is only put things that need to be fluffy in it (everything else goes straight onto the airer or outside) and then it does not need to run long enough for it to come out bone dry, just a short time in the machine, then onto the airer makes it sufficiently fluffy. Used like that I would expect a heat pump dryer to be half what we use so perhaps 1.5kWh per week or 78kWh per year.

It should just unscrew, it will simply be screwed onto the large thread that the actuators mount on.

Our "non heating" electricity usage runs at about 90kWh per week in winter, dropping to about 70kWh per week in summer. Even when we go on holiday so no televisions, washing machines etc, it only drops to about 45kWh per week. I keep looking for ways to reduce that, and the only one I could come up with is throw the tumble dryer away, but that is "required" to make things fluffy and only used for those things.

If you are basing your expected electricity use (and hence PV and battery use) just on your heating needs, you are missing the mark by a country mile. Our heating requirement is a little lower than yours. BUT we find we use THREE TIMES as much electricity on "non heating" uses in this house. That's everything, washing machine, dishwasher, tumble dryer, fridge, freezer, televisions, computers and the list goes on. Not forgetting the low power things like mvhr and treatment plant on all the time. In a low energy house, heating is a small part of your total energy useage. When you properly add up your usage, it becomes extremely easy so self use almost all that a 3.68kW system will generate, particularly so if you use a diverter to send any ecxess to an immersion heater. I am not convinced a battery is viable for a small PV array given we find it so easy to self use it all, so all a battery would allow us to do is store it for a "better" use than just sending surplus to the immersion heater,.

Sockets. TIP #1: Mark some sockets on the plan to satisfy BC there are enough, typically one each side of the bed, one on each wall, etc. THEN when the shell is up and you can see the bulding and visualise how you will use it, go round with your electrician and mark the ACTUAL positions you want them on the walls. TIP #2: Agree with your electrician that he will route socket circuit cables around the entire room at socket height. As long as there is one socket on each wall that is a safe zone. Then you have a cable in place to add extra sockets any time you want to.

Here you go https://www.toolstation.com/mk-mcb/p21565 Edit: One of the reasons I HATE MK, old ones and new ones look completely different. That's why I like Hager so much, they just stick to a design and a new mcb in an old board still matches. P.S Thats a bitsa consumer unit, that is not an MK main switch.

NO NO NO It MUST be the same make. that one will probably not fit Screweys and TS don't stock Hager. Here is one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124928773232?hash=item1d1655cc70%3Ag%3Aa3EAAOSwzCBhVwwK&LH_ItemCondition=1000

Just different makes, or even the same make but a different type. Your peak CU is a plug in type, probably Crabtree they were the most popular of the plug in ones for a while. The off peak is a more "normal" type. It's a shame the form factor of MCB's is not more standardises. Neither is right or wrong, just different, Post a picture of the type you are looking for. Typical plug in type https://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-starbreaker-16a-sp-type-b-mcb/98018 Typical normal one of the same make https://www.screwfix.com/p/crabtree-loadstar-16a-sp-type-b-mcb/189jt

Hi and welcome. Yes the present price rises are not good news. Others will advice on cost effectiveness of other build methods.

The UK is pursuing a "green energy at all cost" strategy. By that I mean it looks almost certain the Cambo oil / gas field will not go ahead "because it's not green" so as the North Sea reserves continue to decline, we will increasingly be bidding higher to import foreign oil and gas in a diminishing supply market. But it's okay, we are not the ones causing this as we refused to take any more out of the ground. Imho we should push ahead with Cambo on the "energy security" principle, while still pursuing the drive to cleaner alternatives.

Before these recent price rises I was considering switching to Octopus go. At the time I was about to press the button, it would have given me a slightly cheaper price than the standard day rate, a very slightly lower daily charge, and of course the 5p for a few hours at night. It was my dislike of getting a smart meter that made me hesitate. I find if I switched to go now, my day rate would be higher so there is no incentive to switch to what would increase my bills.

It's no good if they cherry pick and only present good cases, that helps nobody and just ensures there will be dissatisfied customers in the future. I don't think anyone disputes that you can get a heat pump of some sort to heat any property. What many of us are sceptical about is just how much work is needed to do it properly (insulation, changing radiators and piping, changing hot water tanks, even installing UFH) and how the running costs compare to the previous system. If they are being installed without addressing those issues then you may be left with a "green" system that ticks a government wish list, but misses the ACTUAL target of reducing energy use and reducing CO2 emissions by a mile. Which is why I think the No 1 target should be to find a way to properly insulate and make air tight the older poorer properties first, and then think about a greener heating system for them.

With trusses, you have various bits of wood, typically with a loft truss forming the wall of the dwarf wall, and then a diagonal between. IF you are trying to make a proper air tight house, then you will be trying to sheet the whole of the inside with an air tight membrane with all joints taped. So what do you do? Take the air tight membrane following the roof line right down to the eaves and cut and tape around every single timber that sticks out from the roof line on each truss? A lot oif hard work to get it right. A cut roof hung from a ridge beam has single rafters from ridge to eaves with nothing else. One nice flat surface to tape and seal, and then you build up the dwarf wall structure inside the sealed envelope.

I would leave the existing poor insulation in place. It would be a mare of a job to remove and dispose of. So just leave it and add more on top. As above, I would just provide the minimum walkway to get to any water tanks or anything else that needs access. I have seen plenty of rentals stuffed with junk so would agree with locked loft hatch and "no storage"

Sadly, once again, this is one of the jobs that should have been done right at the start when the foundations and first courses of blockwork were being laid. Strictly speaking you bridge the gap over the water pipe with a lintel. Yes i could not believe it when I saw my brickie laying a bit of lintel over a 3" gap be he said if BC see that bridged with just a block they will fail it. Sorry written for the benefit of someone starting their project with apologies to @Chriswills You have no option now but bash a hole through the wall from the inside to pass the water pipe through and cover it all up before BC see it.

I am not even convinced that inverter is okay for outside mounting?

Is that how the bed was provided with nothing more? If so that is just rubbish. For a start you have the tv only mounted on the bottom 2 fixings. there is no horizontal cross member at the top to fix to the top 2 holes on the television. Like that it it would be easy to damage the tv. Or is there a bit you have not fitted? I would have expected some adjustment, like 2 horizontal members supplied with a variety of fixing points to mount them at different heights. Contact the manufacturer and ask them just how they expect you to adjust the height? It looks to me on a par with cooker hoods that don't give enough adjustment and requires one to get creative with the hacksaw and drill to make a rubbish design work properly. Not what you expect given the price I bet you have just paid.