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Everything posted by ProDave
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Indeed. the lead flashing around my chimney flue, one corner has folded up in the gales. When the weather gets better I need to get up there to flatten it down again and stick it down with something to stop it happening again.
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Improving SAP/EPC
ProDave replied to jen and mark's topic in Environmental Materials & Construction Methods
What air tightness did they assume? I take it this is the design SAP? Our design SAP was similar at mid 80's with an assumed air test of 4. By the time we got the as built air test and entered actual as built door and window U values, the as built SAP came out as A94 If this is the design SAP and you are planning to do the air tightness properly, ask them to use a better assumed air tightness. Or look to improve the design door or window U values etc. -
Yes that pylon is not going anywhere. If there are deficiencies in any wayleave agreement, they will sort them out with some ££££ which I am sure is what happened with our neighbour.
- 15 replies
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- pylon
- electricity cables
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You are totally missing the point here. If you rely on the plaster and skim for your air tightness, then EVERY penetration, light fitting (especially downlights) switch, socket etc is a hole in your air tightness layer. The point of an air tight layer and then a service void, is it makes a completely air tight building and then ALL your services run INSIDE the air tight layer, without penetrating it. so it matters not one bit what holes you cut in the plasterboard for downlights etc, it will not degrade your air tightness and there is nothing to seal up to try and stop leaks. I am convinced that the air tight membrane and the decision to have a warm vaulted roof are the 2 best design features that made out house so energy efficient. Of course that and a good level of insulation, decent doors and windows etc, and MVHR.
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If the water table has reached the surface, no amount of drains will drain it anywhere. If it is just one bit, do as we do and avoid walking there in the winter and it dries up in the summer. Moss needs removing with a lawn rake annually, if you actually find a way to stop it, you will probably become a wealthy man.
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Howdens very cheapest flat pack range. Advantage of Howdens over B&Q is if something is wrong or missing, they sort it very quickly, usually next day at worst. but B&Q often get everything to order so a missing bit can take ages to arrive and delay the job.
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Hold on, are you talking about just the soakaway for waste water from a treatment plant? Or SUDS drainage to dispose of rainwater? or BOTH?
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Learning to live with mistakes. 5 Amp circuits
ProDave replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Power Circuits
Se reply above the post I quoted. It is only ring final socket circuits that are a special case and can only have 1 spur. This is a perfectly normal radial circuit fused appropriately -
Learning to live with mistakes. 5 Amp circuits
ProDave replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Power Circuits
You can feed as many 5A sockets as you want from one 6A MCB, that is called a radial circuit. What you are thinking of is a 32A ring final where a spur from that can only feed one socket unless fused to a lower rating e.g. with an FCU -
Learning to live with mistakes. 5 Amp circuits
ProDave replied to ToughButterCup's topic in Power Circuits
Two single 5A sockets side by side is fine. They are the same size face plate as any other socket or switch so no problem finding a blank plate. Or do you mean something else when you say "socket cover"? -
That is unusual to find. WHY is it unfinished? for sale by a developer (very strange) or an individual (very sad)
- 15 replies
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- pylon
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Can you post a picture of the pylon? I suspect the chances of getting it removed is about 0. My neighbour has a 205kV overhead line on a temporary wayleave that has expired passing over his garden. Several years ago he told me he had served the 1 year notice to remove the cables. They are still there and in fact the line was re conductored recently, so his attempt to remove it failed. The wooden poles and cables can probably be undergrounded but you will have to pay the costs.
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but I'd need two, one for each pod so that's £3K - I've got a 300L (£200) UVC with Immersion as backup. I don't recall the size of your pods, but can you not make them close enough together that they share a "plant pod" and both run off the same ASHP and HW tank in the plant pod? I assumed buying 2 was one for the pods and one for the house?
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I am not sure if this does actually need a "qualified" person to sign it off, but the calculation method is in the technical handbook, so why don't you run the calculations using the percolation tests you have and see what you come up with. If your soakaway only just fits in the available space then no doubt BC are concerned you or your architect have massaged the figures to make it fit and are seeking confirmation that is not the case. Post your percolation results here and one of us will have a go and see what area you need.
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So this is a timber frame with no external blockwork? So the skin you are talking about is the racking layer to stop the building collapsing in string winds? What you need depends on your location and exposure and would normally be calculated by a structural engineer. e,g, in my case the SE called for 2 layers of 13mm OSB3 with the joints staggered and specified the type and spacing of the nails used to attach it to the frame.
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What have you submitted? They will as a minimum want percolation test results and then calculations using the approved method that is detailed in the BR technical standards book, showing the soakaway area required, and then a site layout drawing showing that will fit with all necessary clearance distances.
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It says no delivery to Lowlands, let alone Highlands. Your negotiating should be to just to get delivery to the far north included. Someone like Palletways would do that for about £100 per pallet. 2 might go onto one pallet for one delivery charge. The advert clearly says it has an inverter, so if it turns out not to have, you have a good case for a refund. hint, pay by credit card.
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@Jenki could you post more details of this ASHP, brochure, install manual? link to source? At that price it looks good, is this a one off end of line special or a normal offering? Is the guarantee with a recognised supplier / distributor?
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like I said before, the best thing you can do is get electrician to give it all a thorough test and inspection and advise what needs doing, taking into account your plans for the property and alterations you will need.
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With a normal 3.68kW PV system you will easily be able to self use all of it, very simply. don't try and over complicate it. The key to self usage is simple things like using the big appliances in the middle of the day, and a solar PV diverter to send excess power to the immersion heater to reduce hot water heating costs. I manage to export so little that is is simply not worth claiming the pittance of the smart export payment. And not claiming that means you don't need to bother with an MCS installer.
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Post a picture of what you have. If it is anything like the ringed bit of the pan connector I linked to, that just pushes into a bit of 110mm waste pipe, no other fitting needed, that is what is is designed to do.
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Yes one end pushes onto the pan spiggot and the other end pushes inside a 110mm waste pipe. you can also get them angled, a "bent pan connector"
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That will be a "pan connector" e.g. this one https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-macfit-mac-1-wc-straight-pan-connector-white-90-112mm/78806
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Most static caravans don't come completely "pre plumbed" In your case you have 2 toilet outlets (posh caravan) and you will likely have one or more smaller bits of pipe to connect sinks, showers etc. All these will have to be joined with standard waste pipe fittings in the best way possible taking into account other constraints like where the waste pipe needs to exit from under the van.
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If you are not competent around electrics, call an electrician. A neon screwdriver, while useful, is NOT an approved electrical test instrument. the fact it glows dimly when touching the N or E suggests those are likely to be floating and not connected. Be VERY careful, although this socket is not working it looks like it is capable of giving you a nasty shock or killing you. The fact you have the other cable stuffed in the back box unconnected puts a lot of doubt into the integrity of the whole installation. What are your plans? Rewire? Just repair and patch up what is there? I suspect you are going to want an electrician on board for your project so you might as well find one now.
