ProDave

If those 2 holes line up, then a self tapping screw will secure the hinge. What I found irritating when i was looking for an (electricity) meter box, is they all seemed to be made to the same rubbish design with flimsy hinges and door catches. It is as if someone has drawn up a "standard" that prohibits the use of substantial hinges and door catches.

Yes absolutely, it is not rocket science, but you DO have to be able to read a manual. I keep finding what should be simple system boiler installs here that are not working, and have never been right from new. There are plenty of installers that have no actual understanding of things work, can't think through the flow of water through valves or electricity through switches and other controls. and just wire a system "the way they have always done it" turn it on and leave without making sure everything actually works properly. Concepts such as pump over run, frost thermostats etc completely baffle them, so not much hope for getting an ASHP install right.

This is not constructive help, but I find it sad to see that water meter boxes seem to have been designed down to the same low standard as electricity and gas meter boxes. I would struggle to design a more pathetic, flimsy door hinge and catch mechanism if I tried. It seems like they have designed it down to being a piece of rubbish as much as possible. I would suggest you look at alternative, proper hinges that can be screwed or bolted to the existing box and door instead of just replacing the piece of rubbish you have with an equally rubbish replacement.

It makes the controls more complicated. It would have to be S plan only NO Y plan and no mid position valves. It would only be able to do heating OR hot water. This is exactly how my ASHP works, but to achieve this, the motorised valves are controlled directly from the ASHP so the HP decides which to do and when and sets the flow temperature accordingly. It is all perfectly possible and there would be many different ways to arrange the controls but it would be very different to what most present heating installers are used to doing with a standard system boiler and a wiring centre.

You do have them on a heatsink?

I found the acoustic to be bulky, and the fret board too wide so I find it hard to reach the top string with my short fingers. The electric has a much slimmer neck and easy to reach all the strings but of course that means they are closer together, so harder for chords, which is why I am experimenting with this sort of music to generally avoid them.

If you mean you have a Fused Connection Unit at the immersion heater, best replace it for a 20A double pole switch. 13A fuses get hot at close to 13A and in some makes of FCU they get hot to the point of destroying it when on for a long time. If ever you smell a fishy smell check your FCU's for overheating. If you have a 16A MCB at the consumer unit, no additional fusing is needed.

this is more my thing and what I am playing at the moment (no that is not me and no I am not that good) It saves all that bother with chords, which I am not very good at (short fat fingers but every guitar teacher says there is no such thing)

So you are not actually widening the "hallway" you just want to widen the door opening at the end, that is not going to have a door fitted, to be the same width as the rest of the hall?

I will stick to my 6 string. It's hard enough learning something that is standard. Trying to learn something different with less information about would be even harder. The real advantage of 4 strings to me would be wider string spacing, I often think I would like to try a bass. Having said that I do prefer the electric to the acoustic.. My sailing partner plays a Uke, something I have never tried.

Get all your mates around and grease their palms. 4 good strong blokes should be able to lift that. You want it to arrive un damaged.

I am intrigued by this kids guitar converted to 4 string. Isn't that a Ukulele? I assume as a minimum it would have needed a new bridge and nut to convert to 4 strings?

Here are the HETAS details of the heat shield requirements https://www.hetas.co.uk/wp-content/mediauploads/installationsWithShieldingOfCombustibleWall90degree45degree.pdf

That looks very much like our burn that can come up in spate very quickly. As long as it doesn't come over the top. So you now need to look for some metal sheet to make the heat shields. If you go single wall flue to the top the heat shields will need to go all the way up. If you swap to twin wall just above the stove, the heat shields won't need to go much above the stove. You need to look at availability of sheet metal and the cost vs the cost of twin wall flue and work out the best compromise.

The term "self build" encompasses anything from the dedicated skilled man that does absolutely everything themself, to someone that buys a plot and pays a builder to build a house ready to move into. And everything in between. A good compromise for a first time self builder is to pay a builder to construct a "wind and watertight" shell, so from the outside it will look like a complete house with roof, windows, doors etc but will be unfinished inside. You can then get your hands dirty yourself or pay individual tradesmen to come and do the internal work. The No 1 hurdle is always finding a suitable plot which depending where you are might be easy or might be close to impossible.

Thanks. That must be new as I am sure you used to be tied in to the original supplier of the tank.

I always thought with a bulk tank, only the tank owner would fill it and service it. Has that market opened up now so any supplier can service any bulk tank? Or were both offering to install their own tank and supply at those prices?

Timber frames have varied and evolved over the years. 1970's timber frame would be 4" frame and lucky to have anything other than 1" of rockwool in the frame and 3/8" non foil plasterboard straight onto the frame. Often found to be rotten and perished in bathrooms and kitchens. A 1980's-90's would still be a 4" frame but more likely fully filled with rockwool and with or without a VCL but usually foil backed plasterboard. About early 2000's most were increasing frame size to 6" and full fill with rockwool. Use of VCL still seemed optional but foil backed PB was normal. Only now are proper taped air tight layers and proper service voids sometimes being used, usually by self builders. Prior to service voids, the frame will have been drilled for services usually with no regard to sealing holes so there will be holes opening to the loft and under floor void. My pet hate on a windy day in winter is you unscrew a switch or socked and get an icy cold blast of air coming out of the hole.

Here is the original thread about it

Right, that level of change to me is weeeeeeeell outside the scope of the architect and is in the realms of "interior decoration" that you choose once the building is up and you get a real feeling for the space and how you want to dress it. That would never register for me as a major change and just assumed that is what you both chose to do with the space. Clearly it is what YOU chose to do with the space without discussion?

Okay, go on, someone tell me WHAT changed between the render and the actual, because all I see is trivial detail changes. I MUST be missing the obvious real change.

We can't discuss this properly without details of WHAT changed? I recall early on, a conversation with SWMBO went along the lines of "if I can't design the kitchen then YOU do ALL the cooking. Case closed.

If this is ONLY for a wash hand basin, would a small 3Kw instant water heater very close to the basin not make sense? It only heats what is used. For a larger use like a shower, a dead leg is not such an issue. I turn the shower on and then in the time it takes to undress the hot water has arrived.

Hi and welcome There is a heat loss spreadsheet made by @Jeremy Harris on here that many including me have used to model our heating needs and it proved very accurate. This is something you can do yourself. As to actual performance, that is largely down to detailing, it is possible to fit insulation so badly it might as well not be there if you don't care or don't know what you are doing. Where are you building and what construction method?

First hurdle is what is the planning use of this half acre? Is it agricultural? a paddock? or does it actually have planning use as a garden? A safer bet might be a portable building like a caravan or shepherds hut, easier to move is there are objections.