ProDave

Can you tackle this another way? Find out what you would need to do to make it less "open plan" so BC would accept conventional domestic smoke alarms and see if you can find a compromise. Remember you are not obliged to actually shut a door so would a partition with a pair of sliding pocket doors satisfy BC yet still leave it open plan enough for you with both doors slid into their pockets?

That is the question nobody wants to answer. If a house is so poor in it's insulation that you can't heat it with an ASHP and there will come a time when you have to stop using fossil fuels, then the answer is NOT an electric combi boiler. The question yet to be answered is just what do you do with such a house to make it to an acceptable energy usage, and who is going to pay for that probably quite major work to be done?

We have a heat alarm in the kitchen and a smoke alarm in the adjacent hall, and the smoke alarm has never triggered even when cooking with the doors open.

I was following the scientific principle of make one change at a time. Make 2 changes and you won't know which one did what. If it did not work I would then have tried the over_voltage=2

I only did the force_turbo=1

I was thinking more of where the top of the stair lands, leave that bit off. The P5 adjoining the side of the stairwell, leave a little over size so it overhangs the edge slightly and trim in situ with a circular saw when you know where it needs cutting to.

Mine has been running nearly 3 days now without dropping the connection or needing a re boot, so it looks like it has solved the problem. Well done buildhub again.

I left that last section of P5 to be fitted after the stair was in. Cut it over sized but don't glue it, and trim to size when you have the stairs.

I ask again, do we have any coal fired stations capable of being re started, or have they all been decommissioned beyond that point?

Not necessarily. There is one common design of pull switch operated fan heater, where the pull cord pulls on a plastic "see saw" pivoted in the middle and the other end pushes on a switch. the plastic part is a rubbish design, not strong enough and if you pull too hard it breaks in the middle. I have replaced a couple with a replacement sawn and filed from a sheet of metal.

I have drilled through 1M thick granite. Only small holes for cables. You want a heavy weight SDS drill probably heavier than the little one I have, and good sharp drills, and as @Nickfromwales says start small and drill in steps. I have always got a clean hole when I have drilled it. If drilling all the way, the rubble core is the worst bit, it has a habit of bits shifting and jamming the drill. The first time that happened I thought I had stripped the gearbox in the drill, it was the clutch operating so it does not twist your arm off. How deep do you have to drill? I am guessing not all the way.

Care to explain what that is?

They are actually doing this properly with a constant current driver for all the LED's in series. The voltage will depend on how many are connected. Nothing wrong with doing the final connection with choc blocks.

I would take the fridge out and find out exactly what has failed before ordering parts. On the subject of bodging, there is a time and a place. I was asked to look at a failed brake light switch in a friends old Peugeot. If you laid on your back with your head down by the pedals you could look up and see it but no way reach it to change it without taking half the dash apart. But I saw an easy way to fabricate a new bracket to mount an alternative brake light switch where it could be accessed. That is what I would have done if it was my car.

Tell us what you don't understand about that, it is perfectly clear what you need to do. Use choc block screw terminals for your test run.

Even if you wanted to bodge in a different switch, you are not going to get at any of the wiring without removing the fridge from the cabinet.

Thankfully these were glued to an existing plasterboard ceiling, so once the pilot drill was through the plastic panel it located in the plasterboard. And the downlight fitting clipped into the plasterboard. I once did a bathroom with this as the ceiling, but with no plasterboard behind it. Horrible brittle stuff to drill and high risk of the drill wandering, and once you clip a downlight fitting into it, I bet you won't remove it without destroying the hole. It would NOT be my choice of a material for a bathroom ceiling.

And talk of a scheme to control it, a bit along the lines of landlord registration, so extra costs and paperwork for property owners.

That sounds like the ones that were fitted to the ceiling of the bathroom I did last week, Horrible things to drill holes in for downlights.

A lot of us are happy with Multipanel, and if buying them, get them from a builders Merchant, I found Jewsons the cheapest. The high street bathroom shop wanted 3 times as much as Jeswons per panel.

Thank you, worth knowing about.

It's my blog on my website, I can edit it whenever I want to.

I grabbed them all as plain text. The reason I have not tried it, is I am worried if I go and edit the first few posts to "complete" them, that they won't still display in the correct order. I guess I need to try it by editing a couple of the recent posts, that don't actually matter, and see if the order changes.

I have the text and the pictures for the early posts, I need to get around to re constituting them to make the blog complete.

Wholesale gas price hit a record of an astonishing 508p per therm today, 13 times it's price a year ago.