ProDave

It will need a clear fireproof coating. I have seen it done before. I even saw one house with OSB as the finished wall surface and that passed BR with a coating.

The ones I know that have been used by people on this forum are BioPure, Conder, Graff and Vortex

My only suggestion is before you commit to this, look at the alternatives. I have witnessed one fail twice, once due to a failed motor and once due to a seized gearbox. On both occasions I firmly declined the job of fixing them. Absolutely horrible job in a horrible location to fix a mechanical fault like that. Instead take a good look at the treatment plants that work with a air blower to agitate the effluent. About all that can go wrong is the air blower can fail, and it is well away from the smelly stuff so simple to replace or service.

At a very minimum go around with a can of squirty foam and fill the gap between the blocks and the top of the insulation ALL the way around the building. It is this sort of detail that most builders seem completely oblivious to.

I was going to mention that. Unless you do some serious detailing before the top of that wall becomes inaccessible, then those slabs of insulation might as well not be there as the cold air will just completely bypass them. Is there a plan to sort out that detail? If not tell the builders to stop, not to cover the top of that wall until there is a plan.

You may scorn at it, but JET has well exceeded it's targets in many ways, both in terms of what it has achieved and how long it has operated. (hint, I did some work on it and worked at Culham lab next door for quite a while, I left about 27 years ago) It set out to prove that sustainable fusion was a real possibility, initially a few seconds of a fusion reaction was "success" then the first milestone was actually getting more power out than it took to contain the reaction, and now sustaining a reaction for 5 minutes while it may sound trivial is way beyond what anyone expected of this machine. Ever since I can remember there was a road map of the follow on steps that should lead to a power generating fusion reactor, but for whatever reason, the next step machines have never been built until now. I don't want to speculate why it has taken this long. I still know people that work at JET (some I used to work with) and because of it's age, they are employing old folk like me that still know how to maintain, repair, and nurse along the nearly 40 year old electronics and instrumentation that keeps the thing running on mostly obsolete technology (which was all state of the art when it was built) Oh and a bit of trivia, it was built in the green built on a 25 year planning permission with the condition it be returned to a green field site. See the folklaw about it becomming the third Wittenham Clump when it is entombed by a man made hill. The Deuterium / Tritium phase was always planned to be the final experiment left until the end as once that has run there is residual radiation left behind which makes future work inside the machine mostly a remote handling exercise.

Well ours turned into a DIY max build. So once the builders had done the foundations (I dug the trenches with my own digger) and erected the shell i took over just about everything else. The only bits I got people in for after that were Fitting the windows (needed more bodies than me and SWMBO to lift them) Plastering (I have proved I am no good at that) Some joinery that needed a bit more skill than I have. Some plumbing e.g. gas and UVC final connection and then things that needed an official test like air tightness and Final EPC. Also some floor tiling and fitting the stone kitchen worktops. There is an awful lot you can do if you have the skills or the patience to learn new skills and have a go.

Where is that 400C measured? Flue temperature? you don't normally want the flue temp much above 250C What does the stove manufacturer say about rear and side clearances?

AND the tenancy must be worded properly, the appropriate notices must have been served correctly and in the correct order at the start of the tenancy AND Gas safe certificate and EICR must both be valid and in date. There are a LOT of things that can be wrong to invalidate an S21 and a shrewd tenant who has no intention of leaving will of course not point these out to you until it gets to court for the possession hearing at which point it gets kicked out until you rectify the issue then start again with a new S21. IF the tenant has not vacated by exchange of contracts you want to ensure you have a copy of the tenancy agreement and all notices served and the gas safe and EICR etc before you decide whether to exchange with the tenant still there, or delay exchange until it is vacant.

The MAIN purpose of a diverter is to ensure (as near as possible) 100% self use of your home generated PV power rather than let it get exported to the grid for little or no payment. It is better to heat some hot water with it (and so reduce the power needed from the ASHP) than let it go to the grid. On mine I also have a wireless switched 700W convector heater to dump some spare heat into the house when the PV is generating more than the immersion heater is able to absorb. I find in general over a year, about 1/3 of my PV generation ends up in the immersion heater. Most of the rest is self used by other appliances and very little goes to the grid.

This is widely discussed amongst landlords. The date a tenancy agreement ends is pretty meaningless, other than it sets out the minimum before which a landlord cannot serve notice. At the end of the agreed period, it normally transfers to a monthly rolling contract. At that point a LL can serve notice to end the tenancy with whatever notice period the agreement states. That is really just asking the tenant to move out. If the tenant does not vacate then, and only then, the LL can seek an eviction notice from the courts. Only when that has been granted does a LL have the right to evict and can then call in the bailifs to enforce that. It is getting that court order that can take time. There was a long period due to Covid when you could not even seek a court eviction notice and there was a huge backlog when the courts re opened. If you complete with the T still in occupation, then YOU become the LL and take over the tenancy with all the legal implications of that, and you would then have to serve notice and possibly take it to court for an eviction notice.

Once you have exchanged contracts, that forms a legally binding contract which has legal penalties in the event of failing to complete. The BIG red flag here is the property is currently tenanted. This is more an issue for the vendor, but if the tenants do not vacate when they say they will, the vendor could fail to complete as he would be unable to provide vacant possession. This is a risk to the vendor not so much you, and for this reason most would advise not to exchange contracts until the tenants have left. If the tenants refuse to leave it could require a court order and that could take up to a year in some cases.

600M of underground 240V cable of sufficient size not to have excessive volt drop, is going to be expensive and you are not just going to buy it from a wholesaler, That is direct from the manufacturer stuff, think what comes on a dirty great big cable drum on a trailer towed behind the DNO's vehicles. There is nothing stopping the DNO undergrounding the HV cable then coming up to a pole mounted transformer then back down again to your house. You need to get alternative quotes from them for that option to compare the cost of underground cable vs overhead. Underground has the advantage you can dig all the trenches and lay the ducts and they just have to pull the cable through.

@zoothorn will just move into his shed once the stove is installed, that will be warm and silent heat, apart from the odd pop from the burning logs.

You would need to know EXACTLY how it is connected in extreme detail before designing a solution that will work with both. In my case (LG heat pump) it uses a double pole contactor to switch the immersion. The PV diverter just switches the L with a solid state relay. So instantly a conflict there.

The issue is the Ecodan controller wants to control the immersion heater and turn it on and off as it needs. BUT so does the iboost. If you simply connect the two in parallel it is likely to end in smoke somewhere if both should ever try and turn on at the same time. By far the simplest solution is turn off the Ecodan legionairs function and connect the immersion heater only to the immersion heater.

Bleach and water mixed 50:50

Don't over complicate yourself with the detail of what they are fitting. Your objective is a quiet system that you can live with. just make it clear they can fit whatever they require to make the system function as it should and within it's warranty BUT if it make a noise to the point of disturbing your sleep like the old system then you WILL be complaining again and expecting a resolution,.

It is probably wise to get your electrician to install a consumer unit in your kiosk connected to a couple of site power sockets with meter tails ready to connect into the meter when it arrives.

If you are going with a split load board, a good split is upstairs lights and downstairs sockets sharing same rcd and vice versa. So something tripping the downstairs sockets does not trip the downstairs lights. All RCBO is still much better.

I would not bother. If you are worried about a single fault tripping multiple circuits, the best design change you could make is an all RCBO consumer unit rather than a more common dual RCD split load board.

Generation meter in line with the cable coming down from the inverter and before the downstairs ac isolator. For a simple job like this, get a local electrician to decide where and how to connect it into the consumer unit. Or post a picture of your consumer unit with the cover off for suggestions.

@saveasteading if you don't know the local distributor for Rationel is ADW in Aberdeen, they are very approachable, send your window schedules to them for a quote. Window pricing does seem to be a lottery but when I priced ours I sent the schedules to 5 quality window suppliers and Rationel came back the cheapest so ot was a simple decision.

Very happy with my Rationel Alu clad timber 3G windows. I wanted no maintenance, no regular re painting of windows. I also like the very clean simple profile of the Rationel units. I do admit a 3G tilt and slide unit is a little heavy, but it does slide nicely, but your granny might not have the strength to get it moving. Do look at samples before buying. One make of "Alu clad" timber windows I saw fitted into a new house I was wiring struck me as very poor, a thin sheet of aluminium stuck to the outside of a timber window with no gap. A far cry from the well designed system Rationel use with an air gap between the frame and the alu cladding.

Simple answer is yes. Many of us have done just that. A Monoblock ASHP works in a similar way to a system boiler so you would plumb it like and S plan system. There will be some important detail differences more so often with the wiring and that is very specific to each particular ASHP exactly how they operate. What you might find with no professional input is extended gaurantees might not be honoured.