ProDave

Ask the building inspector to show you which particular building reg number says you have to have a certificate? I was not asked for one, the electrical connection was covered by the EIC. The DNO had already approved the connection. I had all the documents relating to that if they had asked.

Lay the board flat, good side down (side that will go against the wall up) and glue your spacers to the back of the board with sticks like sh*t or similar. When dry they will stay in place while you stand the board up against the wall and put the screws in.

No, i would not use those as roofing battens. I would use them as internal battens for say a service void.

That outlandishly long link just takes me to a page asking me to "sign in to google"

Caravan act buildings usually just remove the need for building regs. You still need planning permission, unless it falls under a permitted development garden building.

TOP marks for forward planning

This appears to be your existing layout I don't see an easy way to improve that without reducing the number of bedrooms. The original developer squeezed 4 bedrooms into what should have been a 3 bedroom house. The bathroom should be in the front box room. and bedroom 3 should encompas the wrongly placed bathroom, perhaps turning the old bathroom into a small en-suite. But as above, re submit planning, and if rejected, appeal.

Then in most cases it won't get done. I still see threads about people who have just moved into a new (to them) house and are shocked at the energy usage. Buyers in general ignore the EPC rating then wonder why their EPC G house costs a fortune. I guess one day, we will reach a point where a house with a poor EPC is worth less than a good one, to factor in the cost of the work needed to improve it. I don't want to be the owner of a poor EPC house while we go through that transition.

Can you tackle this another way? Find out what you would need to do to make it less "open plan" so BC would accept conventional domestic smoke alarms and see if you can find a compromise. Remember you are not obliged to actually shut a door so would a partition with a pair of sliding pocket doors satisfy BC yet still leave it open plan enough for you with both doors slid into their pockets?

That is the question nobody wants to answer. If a house is so poor in it's insulation that you can't heat it with an ASHP and there will come a time when you have to stop using fossil fuels, then the answer is NOT an electric combi boiler. The question yet to be answered is just what do you do with such a house to make it to an acceptable energy usage, and who is going to pay for that probably quite major work to be done?

We have a heat alarm in the kitchen and a smoke alarm in the adjacent hall, and the smoke alarm has never triggered even when cooking with the doors open.

I was following the scientific principle of make one change at a time. Make 2 changes and you won't know which one did what. If it did not work I would then have tried the over_voltage=2

I only did the force_turbo=1

I was thinking more of where the top of the stair lands, leave that bit off. The P5 adjoining the side of the stairwell, leave a little over size so it overhangs the edge slightly and trim in situ with a circular saw when you know where it needs cutting to.

Mine has been running nearly 3 days now without dropping the connection or needing a re boot, so it looks like it has solved the problem. Well done buildhub again.

I left that last section of P5 to be fitted after the stair was in. Cut it over sized but don't glue it, and trim to size when you have the stairs.

I ask again, do we have any coal fired stations capable of being re started, or have they all been decommissioned beyond that point?

Not necessarily. There is one common design of pull switch operated fan heater, where the pull cord pulls on a plastic "see saw" pivoted in the middle and the other end pushes on a switch. the plastic part is a rubbish design, not strong enough and if you pull too hard it breaks in the middle. I have replaced a couple with a replacement sawn and filed from a sheet of metal.

I have drilled through 1M thick granite. Only small holes for cables. You want a heavy weight SDS drill probably heavier than the little one I have, and good sharp drills, and as @Nickfromwales says start small and drill in steps. I have always got a clean hole when I have drilled it. If drilling all the way, the rubble core is the worst bit, it has a habit of bits shifting and jamming the drill. The first time that happened I thought I had stripped the gearbox in the drill, it was the clutch operating so it does not twist your arm off. How deep do you have to drill? I am guessing not all the way.

Care to explain what that is?

They are actually doing this properly with a constant current driver for all the LED's in series. The voltage will depend on how many are connected. Nothing wrong with doing the final connection with choc blocks.

I would take the fridge out and find out exactly what has failed before ordering parts. On the subject of bodging, there is a time and a place. I was asked to look at a failed brake light switch in a friends old Peugeot. If you laid on your back with your head down by the pedals you could look up and see it but no way reach it to change it without taking half the dash apart. But I saw an easy way to fabricate a new bracket to mount an alternative brake light switch where it could be accessed. That is what I would have done if it was my car.

Tell us what you don't understand about that, it is perfectly clear what you need to do. Use choc block screw terminals for your test run.

Even if you wanted to bodge in a different switch, you are not going to get at any of the wiring without removing the fridge from the cabinet.

Thankfully these were glued to an existing plasterboard ceiling, so once the pilot drill was through the plastic panel it located in the plasterboard. And the downlight fitting clipped into the plasterboard. I once did a bathroom with this as the ceiling, but with no plasterboard behind it. Horrible brittle stuff to drill and high risk of the drill wandering, and once you clip a downlight fitting into it, I bet you won't remove it without destroying the hole. It would NOT be my choice of a material for a bathroom ceiling.