ProDave

Mine stayed connected for almost 24 hours until the morning reboot timer turned it off, so I have removed the reboot timer and see how long it keeps going

That will be a cold roof so you have to leave some space for ventilating the outer surface particularly on the sloping bits. Attention to detail when doing this is what makes it good or bad. I would certainly make a loft hatch up into the roof space if there is not one already and have a look at what is there. You might be able to look down into the sloping areas to see what is in there and how thick the rafters are, The floor level eaves spaces should be made accessible with a trap door if not already and you can see what you can do there to improve things. Detail is everything.

So this flat is basically the roof space of the block if it is all like that. Do you own it (leasehold?) or rent it? There is nothing in principle stopping you insulating that properly but the work to do so is massive basically strip all the plasterboard off, insulate the frame / structure properly, replace plasterboard skim and paint. Why would anything in the leasehold stop you doing that? Do you have access to the small loft space above or is that not included in the lease? This sort of issue with no or poor insulation affects a huge proportion of the UK housing stock and is harder to deal with in a leasehold property. In all honesty, it might just b easier to move, and look carefully at the EPC when buying, and if you can avoid leasehold.

Mine usually works for a few hours before losing connection. If it lasts to the end of today then I will remove the "morning re boot" timer and see how long it holds up.

Interesting suggestion. I have implemented that on my Music box, I will let you know if it keeps a connection any longer.

This is just something you get used to up here. You have to grit your teeth and choose a different supplier. You try explaining to someone south of Manchester that the "Black Isle" is NOT a remote Scottish island, it is art of the main land. The trouble is not with the supplier, but the couriers. A lot of suppliers have negotiated deals with just one courier to get the best rate they can and some couriers do indeed charge more to go further than the central belt, and if that is the only courier they have a deal with, they either pay that couriers surcharge, or pay full price for a different courier. I am not defending them, just explaining why it is the case. When you do find a supplier that does not charge more, expect it to take longer than stated. Often the final leg of the journey gets subcontracted to one of a couple of local couriers and that's an extra day on the delivery, and any on line tracking out of the window.

I can't help directly, but I have a Pi dedicated to running Pi Music box mostly to stream internet radio. This is a hard ethernet connection not wifi. It barely manages to stream something for 12 hours without stopping. Sometimes you can log into it's user interface and re start the stream, other times it needs a re boot. I already have it on a timer to give it a hard re boot every morning. I don't know if the root of my problem is slow and sometimes flakey broadband, or just buggy software.

Interesting figures. That must be a pretty poor EPC figure you have got there? Is this new build or renovation?

Years ago, when I was at school, and over the summer break all the asbestos was removed, that was the finish that was left on all the corridor ceilings. and yes I thought it looked rubbish and "unfinished"

Why will it be painful? Intello over the PIR and the service void battens hold it in place.

Interesting sub topic. The only time steels have been an issue is on one build where a major steel was drilled backwards and nobody noticed until me and the plumber arrived on the job. Half the drilled holes were in the wrong place and useless. We had to make do with half the holes we had been expecting which made for some very full holes and longer cable and pipe runs. Of course if there was a main contractor we could have thrown the problem back to him to correct the drillings, but there was not, self managed by the owner, so the owner agreed to the longer runs and very full drillings. On the subject of where to put switches and sockets. I normally spend the first morning going round with the owner marking the socket and switch positions on the walls and agreeing them with them. I don't get fixated with only fitting what the drawing shows because almost always it is wrong.

If any "renovation" is only a short term plan, then honestly don't worry about any cracks if the buldozer is the eventual thing. Cracks and subsidence only matter if you are going to properly renovate it for sale. Even with those cracks, I doubt anything is going to fall down any time soon.

Remember the caravan should be on a local TT earth, not any DNO provided PME earth. Your electrician should know this.

Telford will do what you want. Talk to Trevor at Cylinders 2 Go

Scotland has a requirement for "activity spaces" and that would fail. The ones that bug me are public loo cubicles, more likely in pubs etc where the door swings in and you almost have to stand on the pan to shut the door it swings that close to the pan.

For me, I would not start another new build until I had ALL the money sat in the bank, including contingency. The trials and tribulations of the housing market were what almost derailed or build. Do NOT assume if you have an asset that you WILL be able to sell it, when you want to, for what it is worth.

What stage is the build at? If not too far, making it a warm roof with insulation above the rafters would be my choice. If it is a cold roof you cannot usually completely fill the gap between rafters as you have to leave a ventilation gap, so definitely as much as you can fit allowing that gap and then more underneath.

There WILL be caravan dealers somewhere near you that sell used static caravans and self builders will be a large part of their market particularly for older ones. And they usually have the vehicles to transport them or have a connection to a company that does. £5K should get you something decent, you can get them for a lot less than that even, only you can decide what age / condition you want and how much you are prepared to pay for it. Sell it at the end of the build, or do as we did, plan from the start for it to remain as a big garden building, much cheaper than it would have cost to build a shed that size, and it did us 18 months of accommodation first.

Okay I saw the Oxford ring road built, and the A34 dualled from Newbury to the New M40. Then it all stopped. the road network was "finished" Abingdon Wallingford, Didcot, Oxford, and many of the town expanded with new housing estates, all funnelled onto the same roads, no new ones except to link to the estates, No new rail. And in the last 15 years I was there, my journey to work got slower and slower as more traffic shared the same roads. Ever tried using the A34 for your daily commute? DON'T do it on a bank holiday Friday.

I spent the first 40 years of my life in Oxfordshire watching all the towns grow with new housing estates (but no self build plots) and watched the steadily increasing traffic on the same roads with no major new roads or rail and everything get slower and slower and more congested. Finally the penny dropped, it was NEVER going to improve. Cue time to move.

We have XL Joinery internal Oak doors with grooves a bit like that, and oiled with Osmo door oil there is no difference in colour between the door and the grooves.

There is no bracing on that door, surprising it has not dropped yet. You could fit a glass pane in the top half and then add a brace to the bottom half.

The electrician can dig out and disconnect the old ceiling rose but then someone will have to patch up the hole left in the plasterboard and the electrician will probably grump if asked to go that. What SHOULD have happened is the electrician came first, removed the ceiling rose and left safely isolated wires for the boarder to drop down through a hole in the new plasterboard and then skimmed. I would NOT be recommending that plasterer to anyone else. HE should have pointed out this was going to happen and not proceeded until the old rose was removed. Your only easy solution now is a light fitting with a much larger part on the ceiling.

And spent the winter of the "beast from the East" in a static caravan......... Most of us say "never again" and then after a couple of years, the itch comes back.

I would think you WOULD be using an RCD, unless you are for some reason trying to find a reason not to? Otherwise just fit them in safe zones is the only requirement.