ProDave

The easiest for DIY is the semi rigid ducting and a radial system to a plenum box.

It is never as simple as you think. Solar PV is a good companion to an ASHP but it is wrong to think of it in terms of "solar PV will heat my DHW" The reality is "Solar PV will reduce my electricity bill" The trouble is solar PV is maximum in the summer and of course only in the daytime, with max output at mid day. so you have to think how can I shift as much electricity usage to close to mid day as possible? Three things work for me. No 1, I have the ASHP timed to start heating DHW at 11AM, there is a reasonable chance of decent solar PV generation by then. No 2 use the big appliances one at a time around mid day. and No 3 install a solar PV diverter, so if nothing else is using the PV generated power, it will go to the immersion heater.

Many think the BC ventilation requirements are too big, and after sign off turn the unit down to a lower ventilation rate. Passive house does not require such a high ventilation rate.

I think the missing detail is WHAT is in the garage? supply head? Meter? Consumer unit? What is going in place of the garage? Where do you want the supply head, meter and consumer unit to end up? Picture of what is presently in the garage?

Once you get down to good air tightness and good insulation, you will find that more heat is lost through ventilation, than through heat loss through walls etc. That is where mvhr is worth it for cost savings. But even before that point I think mvhr is worth is for the better comfort in the house. I used to hate wind howling through bathroom fans and the cooker hood when it blows a gale. You get none of that with mvhr, just constant controlled ventilation ensuring fresh air and no damp, without losing a lot of heat from the building. Most of us here have tried hard to build our houses to way better than building regs standard, the target for most has been something close to passive house standard, and many achieve that with certified passive houses. Others like me were not bothered getting it certified as a passive house but still wanted to aim to be close to that using all the same principles. It all depends what you want. With the direction fuel costs are heading, it just makes sense to make the house as low energy as possible.

@Adsibob what is your actual issue here? Just that the ceiling corner is square but the stairs are rounded as they turn the bend so it overlaps a little? I take it the "skylight" is walk on glazing?

Trusting an external render to actually be waterproof and stay stuck to the wall. So now I have told you mine, you tell us yours.

That 180 heating days will not be equal. Likely 50kWh per day on the coldest days, and considerably less at either end of the heating season. No idea what the capacity of the Tesla is, but I doubt it is anywhere near 50kWh

You need a VESA tv desk stand. some examples https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=vesa+tv+stand&_sacat=0 Check the mounting hole spacing and weight limit before buying. Use this instead of the stand that came with the tv and you can adjust the height to fit the sound bar underneath.

Sockets can be anywhere from 450 to 1200 so no problem with high sockets, we have them in the utility room even where there is not a worktop.

It's mentioned somewhere in the Scottish regs it might be different in other places. Chances are BC won't see most of the socket heights until final inspection. He is not going to make you drag the washing machine out to check the socket behind it is at regulation height. And if you have a tv mounted high on a wall, is he really going to argue that the cable should be hanging down from it and plugged into a 1200mm high socket rather than a socket hidden behind the tv? If he was going to be that stupid, I would remove the tv, fit a blank plate in place of the socket and invite him back. There is no cure for stupid.

How did you find your plot? None of the options applied to me and no option for "other" So they got a wrong answer to that one. I had hoped there would be an "any other comments" option to tell them about this deficiency but no there was not, so they won't know my reply was wrong.

Remember this only applies to general use sockets. So a socket dedicated to a particular function can be any height, e.g high up the wall for a tv, very low down a wall for a built in appliance etc.

I have always regarded the 1200 as the top of the switch plate for example. I have never known A BC inspector actually measure them. They would have to be a long way off the regs for that to happen I think.

The message here is an UVC does not have much to go wrong with it, and anything that can go wrong is easily repaired. But a Sun amp has some complicated controls, and it appears from other threads, a heating element that cannot be replaced easily if it fails. I think you have to have a very good specific reason to choose a Sun Amp, e.g you really need it's lower standing heat loss or you really need the more compact unit compared to an UVC. If you don't need either of those features I would choose an UVC personally.

I had that nonsense with my first dead ASHP where they wanted me to return it for repair. Until I found the parent company and involved their CEO.

Room in roof or just an empty loft? At the simplest level, warm roof would give a lower profile as no need to leave an air gap for ventilation. I much prefer warm roof, so much easier to detail in many ways.

A lot of conifer hedges if you cut back too far won't re grow and become a brown dead mass of twigs.

Interesting idea to use kitchen units for an office. Will you find the 600mm deep worktops adequate? My office desk is more like 800mm deep and I would not want it any less than that.

Hi and welcome. My view, 6*2 frame is not wide enough to get enough insulation. We built with an 8 * 2 frame on the outside and then a further 100mm of external insulation around the outside of the frame. Remember an outer blockwork skin is just a rain shield, it adds very little to the insulation.

I don't have the patience to do the sums to convert to monthly, I log my usage weekly. But it is easy to do a whole year, so last 12 months ASHP has consumed 1015kWh heating DHW and 1480kWh heating the house. Well insulated to near passive house levels, good air tightness with MVHR, triple glazed windows, EPC A94 in the highlands to colder climate than most.

A low temperature joint usually cooks for longer, we just put the roast tatties in for longer in the same oven.

Replace with the cheapest vertical spindles. Of course once signed off you could change it......

But there is no quick way to ramp up renewable generation, so the solution must be a pragmatic ramp up production of available fossils fuels to keep us going while we at the same time speed up renewable AND nuclear generations.

Mine was done under the old system G58 I think? All I had to provide was details of all the equipment and make and model of the inverter. a drawing of the installation showing positions of the isolators and an electrical drawing and the completed forms. They didn't ask for any other certificates or proof of qualifications, but I am sure the Part P certificate and EIC from the electrician would satisfy that.