MikeGrahamT21

Yeah its still as good as the day i bought it, does the job brilliantly. Mine is also pointed at the ceiling, and nothing on there so far.

From memory isn't it always preferable to have an airgap inside the partition, i.e. the insulation shouldn't full fill, so that any sound can reverberate and be absorbed.

One other thing to consider is the two types of bifold doors, there are top hung and bottom hung, the better ones in my opinion are always bottom hung, where the weight all goes on the bottom of the frame, rather than hanging from the lintel, this may help to reduce deflection also.

Seems an expensive product also. How about https://www.airstop.co.uk/product-page/isowindow-feba-soft Depending on how hands on you are, this would be easily done after their installation, before plastering. Out of curiosity, how much was your windows quote, i keep looking at adverts for idealcombi, look nice windows, well designed.

The top opener window should certainly have the ability to lock with it open slightly. It should have one of these (the gold bit) One slot is fully closed, and the other is vent.

im not too sure with tilt and turn, mother in law has them and I think hers has a lock on the turn, if you take a photo of both parts of the locking mechanism with the window open I might be able to suggest something

Or surface mounted may be easier to air seal

cement based asbestos is low risk anyway, its very likely that the dust you saw was just dust and not actually from the sheet. They are incredibly hard to break and when they do they don't make much dust, you would have to take to it with an angle grinder to get any proper dust.

Works spot on for me with a humidity boost sensor, the bungalow tends to me drier than it perhaps should be majority of the time. Drying clothes indoors is just mind bogglingly fast!

Get your self some bar keepers friend just in case! But no wouldn't have thought it would stain.

Are you able to put the window on a vent style lock? I can never remember if you can do that with tilt and turn. Or even just tilt it. Zero cost. Whatever you do low cost will let cold air in, but this may not be a serious issue.

How about Larch with a light stain, you may have to get some samples and test: https://duffieldtimber.com/blog/cedar-vs-larch-cladding-which-should-i-choose

You're getting there ? Looking very nice, unbelievable how expensive nice things are these days!!

Also just to note, they will make suggestions to your plan if they think something could be better in their opinion, obviously have a think about it, but don't get swayed too much, how i designed it which is what i bought was far better than their suggestion.

You submit the plan to them for checking and then they come back with a trolley ready to hit buy, at least that’s what happened last year when I did mine

FYI https://www.stonespecialist.com/news/stones-quarries/engineered-stone-own-brand-international-quartz-international-stone

Search for iQ online, it was a value range developed in partnership with cosentino for International Stones who yes are a wholesaler. I double checked when I bought that it wasn’t Chinese and they assured me of this, the slabs have cosentino on them

According to Google: High in oxalic acid Rhubarb contains approximately 570–1,900 mg of oxalate per 3.5 ounces (100 grams) I have iQ White Quartz from International Stones (made by Cosentino). I've contacted them but not heard back as yet.

I'm pretty sure rhubarb was edible last time i checked ?

Take a look here: https://www.grpcompositedoors.com/fire-doors.php

I have similar behind my rads, 1960s plaster, its debonded from the blockwork behind, if you push it, it moves, i need to knock it off when i do those rooms and replaster. Check this on yours

Yes you can permanently stain quartz... I've managed it. Of course quartz is non porous, but the staining can come from a chemical reaction with the resin, which is actually worse. I casually put some rhubarb on my white tops, and now have a lovely little dark stain where the liquid oozed out of the rhubarb, tried alsorts to get it out but it won't shift. Turns out oxalic acid is terrible for staining the resin, and rhubarb has a lot of that in it. Ignore the samples for stain resistance also, i did exactly the same, dolloped a load of oil and turmeric on it, left it for days, and it wiped straight off, no stain, on the actual worktops, it leaves a stain, however this one does disappear magically over a day.

Where would you locate the door knocker on that door anyway? Where it normally goes is glass.

I would double coat that one to be honest. Clean it all up, and remove any rough edges with a scraper/knife, squeeze a good amount into the 'hole' to give a background fill and let it set, and then do a finishing bead over the top, and finally paint to seal it all. Another option would be to inject expanding foam down the back of it (not loads), again allow it to set, trim off any excess, and then again use the caulk/flexible filler to finish it.

Think you'll struggle with quadrant or scotia on that, its curved! Quadrant may do it with enough nails in it, but you risk breaking it. Siliconised caulk for me, and then paint over once dry to seal it and slow it drying and cracking itself.