MikeGrahamT21

larger steel sections from memory, they are more profiled to absorb shock. Double boarding on these will also likely help

Set yourself a target as to what you want to achieve, whether its just cosmetic, or to make it thermally efficient, that way you won't end up doing bits and then having to undo them to do something else because you've changed your target. Hopefully your pockets aren't too shallow, most properties eat money these days!

Edit: Ignore me lol

G100 compliance is only required if the DNO ask for it from memory, so submit your G99 fast track first. This inverter doesn't support G100, they sell a Export Power Manager for that functionality. Its worth noting that this inverter does have the fail safe option for if it loses connectivity with the CT clamp. Double check this though, as I may well be wrong, perhaps I actually do need it and just don't realise, but this wasn't mentioned by the installer. Be warned, self install seems to invalidate pretty much every warranty from what i found out, which is why i decided to pay for it to be put in. Take a look at my blog on here, almost certain I put photos in there.

Its G99 fast track for energy storage, the installer did this for me. Products and installation came from here: https://www.solar-energy-store.co.uk/

I lined my inital ones with DPM, but found it just sits with water and you end up getting soil down it that you can't get rid of. Needless to say the wood didn't last very long. I've re-done them, this time without plastic, only a year in so can't comment on longevity, but hoping it'll be much better, certainly didn't gain anything from using the DPM. Make sure you double coat with a good fence paint on the side you won't see, and that should help more.

True, but I was on about pulling energy from the grid.

Thats 3kWh more than i've used since back end of february

I stand corrected. Makes sense it wouldn't be instant from a safety perspective I suppose

Things have probably come on a long way since i last looked, this facility isn't important to me however. Running a Single Battery i'm getting 1.8kW max output at the moment, which actually is covering a good 90% of my usage, but always have the option of adding another battery for full 3kW if i see the need, or can get a bargain US2000C. There are tangible and non-tangible benefits as with most things, in the case of Battery Storage the non-tangible benefits are more towards your eco conscience, though this is on the slim side too when you consider mining of materials to make the battery, and also its disposal at end of life, though the disposal element should have changed considerably by the time my battery is end of life. Knowing you aren't pulling much from the grid is a nice feeling.

I think the Powerwall 2 is the only unit which seamlessly handles power outages for the whole house, others just have a seperate port where you can wire a socket up

I did indeed press go, and so glad i did with the way energy prices have gone. I'm going to write an end of month addition to my blog about it, as i've discovered lots of things which just aren't mentioned online, things which are worth knowing. In terms of the pylontech and solis inverter, yes really pleased with them, wouldn't hesitate to recommend.

You'll never notice the difference, its just because its denser than standard plasterboard.

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The manufacturer quoted u values assume that the installation is perfect, a continuous layer with no imperfections, no gaps, and no air movement. in reality you’ll knock it and damage bits when you put it in damaging the structure, you can of course make it airtight and gap free, which you need to do, and you’ll have have a psi value to consider, in that there will be thermal bridging in some areas, which can be mitigated by installing more insulation where this occurs. Also remember that any foil side must be followed by a 25mm airtight gap to make use of the foil for low emissivity, otherwise I’m pretty sure it just becomes a conductor being metal, read this a while ago somewhere, makes sense really

I have a SunnyBoy also, SB4000, haven't had any issues connecting via bluetooth from my laptop. Have you updated the firmware on it? You can do it with an SD card. Also, connect it up to the LAN (if you have a WebConnect module), and use SunnyPortal

You need one of these... https://www.solenenergy.com/solar-1/inverters/solis-data-logging-stick-wifi-sol--dls--w And Solis Cloud app... www.soliscloud.com

Not many power cuts round where I am either, have had the odd one over the years, but nothing more than a minute off, so I didn't have the backup socket wired in, though I could do that myself later down the line. Yeah the Tesla Powerwall is absolutely the best value for money, but for me that amount of storage is just far too much. Yesterday had the washer on, dryer afterwards and cooking my dinner and tea, and used very little from the grid. Export has now dropped to zero, haven't exported anything since it got installed, and also have managed a full charge yet, just not been sunny enough. Worth noting that because i'm on a deemed export tariff for the Solar FiT, I'm still being paid for 50% of what i generate as a deemed export, even though nothing is going out at the moment. One thing I did notice last night when cooking (around 18:00) was that the battery storage inverter couldn't react quickly enough to cover the induction hob, which pulses, so it drew around 800W from the battery, but it was still importing around 100W from the grid, so worth taking into account, wasn't something i'd even thought about. At present the battery is drained before I head to bed, this will alter as the days get longer, and this led to another discovery. So the inverter is set to not discharge below 10% SOC, however the battery does still discharge very slowly, but what i've seen is that it tops up a little from the grid through the night, and then discharges that to loads, the little and often bump on the graph through the night is the fridge freezer. Cost per kWh - £2450 / 3.3 (usable) = £742 Very happy with the 3.5kWh Battery at the moment, thinking what I would gain from another 2.4 may be minimal, but will see how this evolves.

https://www.tigoenergy.com/product/ts4-a-o TS4-A-O Description Optimization is a Flex MLPE function available as an integrated modular junction box base (TS4-O) or as an add-on unit (TS4-A-O). Design using unequal string lengths, mixed orientations, or areas of mismatch. Install in shaded areas with a reduced setback ratio. In addition to optimization, the TS4-A-O enables module level monitoring, and rapid shutdown in compliance with NEC 2014, 2017, 2020. Functions Optimization Monitoring Rapid Shutdown Features and benefits Suitable for up to 700W solar modules The higher performance optimizer with Predictive IV Technology (PIV) The ONLY optimizer with selective deployment Includes the benefits of Safety & Monitoring Meets US NEC rapid shutdown requirements Optimizes right out of the box Shade and age tolerance to maximize lifetime yield Works wirelessly with the TAP & CCA Configuration 1 module per TS4 Required CCA + TAP Says the CCA and TAP is required on their website. we are also assuming that the OP has got the optimisation tigo ts4 modules as well and not one of the other versions

Sounds like you've got the Tigo TS4 modules on each panel, but then you haven't got the gateway that they are suppose to all connect back to in order to work even connected up, so at the moment those Tigo modules will be doing absolutely zero. It needs the gateway in order to know which panels are dragging the string down due to shading. Wire the gateway up, get all the modules connected and then monitor it. The tripping needs investigation, I'm not an electrician, however I don't think a fault DC side would cause a trip AC side, so its more than likely something on the inside wiring. I had a very similar issue for many years when I had solar installed, always seemed to happen Nov/Dec when generation was low and it was damp. In my case it turned out to be nothing to do with the solar farm, it was a cable on the main ring main which had been sliced clean, and someone had just taped it together with fabric tape!! All wiring now replaced and it hasn't tripped for years, nothing was changed on the solar.

After pondering battery storage for many years, and then the energy prices rocketing this last year, i finally decided to give energy storage a shot, working out how it would sit financially was extremely difficult, and a little bit of a finger in the wind, but as the batteries have a designed lifetime of 15years now, and energy prices rarely go down, I figured it would pay for itself with some profit over the long term, whilst also reducing my carbon emissions and reliance on the grid. As i'm just dipping my toe in, i've decided to just get a single US3000C Pylontech Battery for now, meaning that the max discharge W is around 1.8kW. I will see how this fits in, which will cover most of my loads, and if I see fit I can add a US2000C later on to give the full 3kW discharge. Went for a Solis AC Coupled 5th Generation Inverter, the graphs it produces are really informative. Will get round to taking the rackmount bits off at some point. Example of the graphs available: I will add bits to this thread over time about electric consumption. My annual consumption at the moment is looking to be around 1200-1300kWh before the battery, Export sitting around 2400kWh as excess from the solar farm, so be interesting to see what these figures do over the next 12 months. Cost so far £2450 including installation which was £650. An additional US2000C will be £748 if i decide to go ahead.

Yeah that was my thought. Bulk of the bungalow is still on originals, now 50 years old, but mostly under cover of solar panels, so not planning on replacing them a moment before they need doing!

Good news delivered ??

Never planning on moving, the tiles would have been in use around 30 years, and in their original form. lead times and price aren’t on my side, but if it’s not worth considering then I’ll go with new. Also thinking of the environmental side of things?

Sorry! Thought you were on about the ground floor floor! Ignore me, though airtightness membrane maybe still needed depending on what your trying to achieve