gaz_moose

try to rent a garage off the council to store your current stuff in. or ask on a local facebook group if someone would rent you some space. 100mm 7n blacks would probably be the cheapest. a single garage would probably not need any planning approval but when you have figured out what you want to build its worth sending an email to the local planning department just to confirm.

just stick a wall mounted bathroom fan heater up. then you can enjoy hands free hair drying

i had something like this happen, turns out i had fitted the screen upside down and the top and bottom hinges were the wrong way round.

my blackout curtains are basically just normal curtains with a plastic like material on the side facing the window. id look for some thick woolly fleece type curtains. you could try getting some spare sticks of wood and hanging a duvet cover up in front of the door and see if it makes a difference.

id probably take each glazed unit out one at a time and clean the seals, then reassemble them with a smear of silicone on each one. its easy enough to get them out, just hammer a gasket scraper between the beading and frame.

just get someone to come and media blast it. the cost will be hard to swallow but the time saved will make up for it.

Stripping off old painted lining paper and my walls have the remains of the old paint on the plaster, what is my best way to remove all of this? as im worried that it will show through when i just paint directly onto the wall. you can feel it when you rub your hand over the wall. dry sanding it will create loads of dust. i did think about using a red scotchbrite and wet sanding it. sorry about the basic decorating question, i did google it. crap walls really ping my OCD so they all have to be mint.

the radiator gets boiling hot so i assumed it wasn't a flow problem.

i dug out my original notes on the subject. id calculated that i needed 547 watts. the rad i fitted was 677 watts. in bedroom 2 the rad is 772 watts, So i can see why that helps it to be warmer. i figured it was all down to the better placement. the 750 high rad is 777 watts which puts me in the same league as bedroom 2 but i think the radiator being wedged up one corner is the deal breaker.

i have 2 bedrooms that are the same size and L shaped, in bedroom 1 i fitted a p+ radiator up the corner and in bedroom 2 i fitted a short but wide k1 radiator along the main wall. the BTU's are about the same but bedroom 1 never seems to heat up, whereas room 2 is perfect.( they both have the same walls/windows/insulation etc). Bedroom 1 has a 500w X 600h radiator with a btu of 2310, if i fit a 500w X 750h with a BTU of 2651 would it make a real world difference? I know the problem lies in me putting the radiator up the corner but i cant really change that now. i don't want to have to alter the pipework which comes up through the floor. my current pipe centres are just over 60mm from the wall so i cant stick a K2 on. i could probably use one of those cheap column rads but its a plasterboard partition wall and id worry about it falling off. sorry about the essay, i just don't know what my best way to proceed is 😒

i assumed it was some crappy old sectional garage you were trying to make habitable. if your place is like that then you are in a much better position. i would do as most have said and strip the old roof off as its probably pretty knackered and stick box profile and some breathable membrane then your insulation/ roof walls etc..

i was quoted £600 to remove and dispose of a corrugated asbestos roof off a 14x16 ft double garage last year. then another £600 to remove and dispose of the walls. be interested to see what you go with as im obviously in a similar boat 😁

my friend lives on a new build estate and most of the houses have a section of the stairs that lift up on hinges/ gas struts to reveal a big cubby hole underneath.

flat or pitched roof?

buy a bigger fillet and cut it to the shape you need. no one will notice its a bit wonky.

upvc cloaking fillet UPVC Window Trims | Eurocell

what he is suggesting is to use a frame strap, so you don't have to drill through the frame. on upvc windows they clip into the edges of the frame (that face the brickwork) and then you screw then to the inner wall which would then be plaster boarded over. tbh i would go with concrete screws straight through the frame into the stonework and decent expanding foam. the fischer ones with the built in rawl plug are old hat nowdays. (im no upvc expert BTW) Window Fixing Clips / Door Fixing Strap (6pk)Schuring 70mm UPVC Window Systems | eBay

you could just buy 20 blocks and some sand/cement and have a go at building walls/ corners to see if you think you can actually do it yourself. that is if you actually want to 😆 are you planning on doing the slab yourself?

soudal silirub lmn is the stuff to use.

customer supplying all the stuff usually translates into customer is buying the cheapest tat they can find.

the 25kg bags of hydrated lime are massive. easily 3 or 4 times the size of a bag of builders sand.

i tried sponging over the grout with boiling hot water and it didn't soften it up at all. i will try some abrasive cutting compound on the silver scratches see if it gets them off.

Cheers for the reply, I was looking at that one, roughly how long would it take me to rake out 4M of metro tiles? and does it knacker the tiles if the sides are abrasive as well?. it took me about a day and a half to stick these ones on as someone who has never tiled before. so wondering if it might be best to just cut my losses and bash them off the wall 😬 , whole situation is annoying as i did a real nice job of the tiles.

tiling my kitchen splashbacks and i waited too long before wiping the grout off and it has set solid (Gutted) i have used mapei anti-mould grout . Water and the abrasive side of the sponge are not touching it. they are only white metro tiles. what would be my best way to salvage the situation?, I tried scraping a bit of grout out with a 1" scraper and it left a grey scratch on the tile. are those abrasive grout rakes any good? ive managed to get pretty much all the grout off the faces but the grout lines look terrible as they are really jagged. be gutted if i have to bash the tiles off and reskim the wall.

so your saying an amateur brickie can do 550 in a day with an amateur labourer, That's fairly reassuring for crazy people who consider building stuff them selves. what was your brickie charging you? per day day or per 1000, it seems to be about 600 per thousand around where i am but thats for big sites. then 'improver' brickies are on about 150 a day same as a hoddie.