gaz_moose

DIY sent me 10 damaged worktops in a row. 2 of the cupboards were out of square. 2 of the centre posts were too long so cupboard top and bottom pieces bowed so the door gaps are bigger in the centre. 4 drawer faces were chipped and my pull out towel rail was scratched. its worth getting the sink unit delivered dry built so you can adjust it easily for your pipes. the same goes for a 60/40 fridge/freezer unit. as i had to cut the back panel off mine and i had to build a box to go under the Fridge freezer to raise it up as the 'split' of the doors didn't line up. one of the doors slit about a year in so they had to post a replacement. all of their draw and hinges are BLUM.

how about some Chocks that slip either side of the wheels.

try speaking to 'worktop express' in birmingham.

as has been said, dry lining paper tape will work.

ive this mixer. the shroud on the drum sits against the big seal and the pin of the clips locates behind the big bearing. sometimes the drum can be hard to get back off and wants a good wack, maybe yours is difficult to get on and wants a good wack.

i bought some thickener last week, it was basically just plant food with a few seeds, your better off just buying some seeds and sticking that down instead. get the ones that are coated in the bright green stuff as the birds don't seem to eat it.

i was under the impression you shouldn't mix and match push fit systems. which way are the pipes going into the wall box? will it turn 180 degree

put all of the saw dust created from grinding the stump into sturdy black bin bags and advertise it on market place. i filled 20+ bags and gave them all away, i could have given 100 bags away. if you can dig around the stump the grinder will be able to reach a deeper depth. i have a similar predicament so am watching to see how you get on. i think the digger bucket will snag on all the old roots and rip the ground to bits leaving terrible trenches.

100mm. i used the screwfix ones, they come with a star drive impact driver bit too match the screws. then 6mm sds drill bit with a 100mm drill length.

if it goes under the bottom of the door frame it will be a bugger to change, id be tempted to get a 'magic man' to come and fix it. or put an over sill ontop of it.

i put the 600x600 tile effect fibo panels in mine when i did it. mainly because i had lost loads of enthusiasm at that point and just wanted it done. They were easy enough to fit, i used my glass fitting suction handle thingy's. the trim for those god awful plastic panels are the same size and wayy cheaper to buy.

if its emulsion then a warm wet sponge will do it.

just find someone on a local facebook group who is having a kitchen ripped out and pilfer their old sink/worktop. rest the worktop between your washing machine and fridge. drain into a bucket etc..

why is the beading on the outside?

i saw your post and that's what had me looking at them, but i wasn't fond of the personnel door or the windows. i found that you can buy the tongue and groove wood but then you wouldn't have the 'wind and water tight' joints on the ends. do you have to hammer the corners together much when building the walls?, im just wondering what stops the roof from blowing off if its only screwed to the top beams.

be interested to see how you attach the doors and windows etc.. to allow the structure to expand and contract without distortion issues.

sounds like you have answered your own question. you could always just plug a 1KW fan heater in set to frost protection if you were leaving the building empty over the winter months and was worried.

it was just a cheap ebay no name supplier, less than £100 all in, but it was probably 2018/ 2019 so precovid prices. ebay/amazon/manomano/ Victoria plumb are probably the places to look 😬 ( cant believe i recommended Victoria plumbing)

i was in a similar position and just bought the cheapest one i could find. which looked identical to yours and i was surprised on how decent it actually was. i think mine was closer to 1m and was a bit bendy being only 6mm so yours will probably be better being narrower. just make sure you fit the hinges the right way around so the water drains inwards.

id probably brick up the window and stick a worktop with a sink along that wall, then put floor to ceiling units along the 390 wall to house the fridge freezer etc.. could you stick an upright radiator on one of the remaining walls?

probably cheaper to cut up some threaded bar or to use coach bolts that using an engineering type bolt. its not like you need grade 8.8 or above for a shed.

+1 for gripit fixings.

just unclog them.

how confident are you that there is actually another offer?

for perspective my barber charges £15 for a 15 minute hair cut, they are open 7 days a week and have 4 barbers in total. they are always booked solid 2/3 weeks in advance. if you want fancy stuff its even more time or money.