gaz_moose

lime and sand only mortar is just for practicing with, instead of using cement so that it can be used over and over again without setting or sticking to stuff. I can lay bricks decent enough but have never laid a block so though i would just have a mess around with some first. Once ive got the hang of blocks the plan is to build a single skin garage with them which will be part rendered and part clad so the blockwork doesn't have to be amazing. i didnt really want to waste any plasticiser on something that was just going to go in the bin.

I've loads of blocks to lay but have never laid a block in my life so knocked up some training mortar to practice with before i decide if im going to get a brickie in or not. i mixed it 4:1 Sand: Hydrated lime but it seems flat as hell, almost like its just wet sand. should i try adding some washing-up liquid to act as a plasticiser to fluff it up a bit? or is this type of mix usually like this? its all new to me and im just winging it ? i know washing up liquid is frowned upon but this is only for playing with to help get my confidence/speed up.

just fix wooden battens to the roof beams, slot celotex between them and cover it in that space blanket insulation tinfoil stuff then clad it in T+G pvc bathroom ceiling.

i sealed the gaps in my concrete sectional garage with screwfix own brand exterior caulk about 2 years ago and its been fine so far. although i think a 25mm gap is to big for caulk, personally i would stick some PVC trim up, no one is going to notice it all the way up there.

didn't he build a smaller house that he was going to sell to help finance this one, i thought that Omaze house competition with the annoying old hag woman raffled the other finished one off.

a company called bigdug sell the foam square ones in different colours. id be tempted to use carpet tiles as they are fairly easy to replace if you ruin one or two, although they are not very impact absorbant.

personally i would put rubber gym matting type flooring down. the thick stuff like they use in stables for horses, so that you dont have to worry about damaging it. my conservatory has become my gym now and it has ceramic tiles ? so im just waiting till one gets broken.

Hansgrohe Isiflex Shower Hose Chrome 5.5mm x 1.6m | Shower Hoses | Screwfix.com these are plastic coated and smooth. they do clear ones if you dont like spaceship silver but you will see its just a regular one with a covering on the outside.

how can you build a partition wall between the two windows when their is a gas/electric meter between the two? if you ceiling is the whole way along then pop one of the spot lights out and see if it has any insulation in it? id probably put insulated plasterboard on the walls and clad it in that semi decent looking bathroom panelling.

the brackets above concrete screwed into the walls, assuming they are not partition walls.

a thin coat of acid etch primer then a paint that is high in zinc.

I put Ikea Pax units behind Slide Pro sliding doors when i was faced with a similar issue,i did cut the pax units to get them to fit the space better, i thought it was a neat trick.

how do these warm roof/ lightweight roof companies get away with removing the old glass/plastic roofs and fitting solid roofing? im sure the regulations are that the roof must be 75% translucent to class as a conservatory.

ive just redone mine around the bath, which was fibo wall panels so i didnt want to risk any silicone removers. i used a snap off blade knife and a razor blade type scraper. it wasn't too bad of a task. i went over it with some everbuild wonderwipes to get the last bits off. i was worried the silicone removers might damage the wetwall so chickened out and went old school. the wipes are good for cleaning off freshly applied silicone.

i just went for the cheap no name amazon ones and they have been fantastic. i was sceptical about the BTU's but i have the same sized rooms with normal radiators and they basically the same.

i recently had a whole new heating system installed and the plumber left it for a month with system cleaner in before draining it down to ensure it was flushed out. if he is just doing 1 room in your house then he will probably just isolate that radiator before taking it off so you still have heating in the rest of the house. i supose you could drain it down and just fill it up with water to flush it out.

how would you ever change the windows?

some good points raised. i will try and mix it weaker and dryer, ive not got any DPC so will try and scrounge some.

i did silicone that bit but its cracking where it joins the wall,

the ones i did yesterday have started to crack already.

ive put some windows into a regular brick built building, But when i have pointed the window horns the pointing has cracked where is meets the original brickwork once dried. i fitted a few windows over a period of time so have experimented a bit with different ratios like 3 parts sand to 1 part cement and then 4 parts sand to 1 part cement. I also tried wetting the bricks before trowling the mortar in but it still cracked. this isn't my image but it shows where the door sill horns extend into the brickwork and then the excess gap is then filled with mortar. plus you can see where this one has cracked around the edges like mine all have. So what am i doing wrong? is pretty frustrating.

dow conning 785 sanitary silicone for the shower. is your toilet actually fastened to the floor? you could put some white snap-caps over the holes or just fill them with white silicone, id silicone around the base aswell to stop nasties getting under it and smelling. im surprised they didnt just stick the brackets to the floor with contact adhesive. get some FUGI silicone smoothing tools if you dont already have some, then you can have beautiful looking silicone

mine have the adjustable rod at the top. then the side plates have a spring loaded wedge at one end.

can you not tap on the downstairs ceilings to listen to where they are??????

a nice bead of silicone will be fine.