gaz_moose

where i want this building currently has a concrete sectional garage sat on top with a rubbish base. ive had 2 quotes so far, the first guy wanted to do a raft slab and wants 8.5K with me removing the roof/ walls and him removing the old base. the second is 5.4k for a trench foundation with 100mm slab in the centre. with him removing the old walls/ base. so quite a difference. ive only had the two get back to me / actually turn up so will try to get another two quotes before making a decision. but a 3k difference and less work for me is currently sounding like the better option.

could you not just build it out of SIPS? i looked into garden rooms and found some bloke on youtube called oakwood garden rooms who did loads of videos on them then found they have a facebook page. most of the guys on there seem to use threaded rod concreted into holes in the ground for foundations. it does seem your guy is spending your money for you, is he some spunky young guy trying to carve out a portfolio.

that is really good news that your roof has not got any asbestos in it, but as pointed out it may prove to be troublesome convincing the guys at the rubbish tip. i suppose i should get mine tested instead of just assuming the worst.

the local council tip round my way allow you to dispose of it there, but only 4 sheets every 6 months. you have to double bag it etc..

keep us updated.. i am in the exact predicament as you with a concrete garage with asbestos roof to dispose of. what company quoted you the £700??

thank you for your response, i would be happy with quotes of about 5K, i just didn't want to waste tradesmen's time asking them round to quote me if it was going to be like 20K. be nice if i could do the whole thing for 20k 😁

I want to build a single storey single skinned garage 6.2m x 4.6m. with just a simple trench foundation for the walls to sit on, then a 100mm slab in the middle. Roughly how much would i expect to pay for someone to come and do this for me? i appreciate this is a daft question as there are a million variables to take into consideration. but it is just normal ground with decent access etc.. is this something that a normal builder would do or should i look for a concreting type company, i am foolishly confident i can do the brickwork and roofing myself, but digging a hole and poring some slop in seems to be vexing me 😁

how much were your foundations? Im probably going to be building something of similar size and was going to get a gang in to do the concrete parts, but have no idea what a ball park quote would be.

i was watching your timber garage threads as it was a serious contender. My qualm is that round these parts the local chavs like breaking in wooden sheds so it would catch their eye. How much did your concrete base set you back? or did you do it yourself.

a lad i know had a massive metal one put up and it looked decent but he is very rural so it didn't look out of place. i think it would look out of place here as everything else is brick built or concrete fake brick like mine, although someone decide to paint this one white. mine is the end house so i only really have the neighbour over the back to worry about regards too distance and she is about 10 foot away from the back of this one currently. i did buy some blocks and start learning how to lay but that a different story, basically i submitted plans to build next to this garage in block, either clad or rendered and they would only approve it if it was bigger than i wanted/ was a weird octagon type shape and made from brick and have obscured glass windows facing into my own garden for privacy 😄, so that plan is dead in the water. i did entertain it and start learning how to lay bricks but think picking up a trowel and cracking on might be a bit too ambitious, a BBQ or something would be a more sensible first project.

Currently I have this old asbestos roof sectional garage it is 4.6m wide and 6.2m long externally. I think whoever built it just used the froth on the top of their beer as a spirit level as the more you look the worse it gets. Basically it needs to disappear and be replaced by something much better, but im lost as to what to build to replace it, cost / value for money is a big decider as I will either have to build it myself or outsource it. I did look into those log lap cabins but think I would be in the same predicament when it starts rotting away. hiring a builder to build it out of brick sounds too expensive. Is a stick built replacement my best option? or is there something I've overlooked?

could just be trying to scare / fob you off so you don't claim off them.

if you have the part that fits your hoover can you not just buy some generic vacuum hose? i know you can get the henry stuff in mega long lengths, or am i missing something?

i got mine from eurocell, i think they have regional fabricators so the quality would never be the same.

there is a good facebook page for these garden rooms called, oakwood garden rooms, he also has loads of youtube stuff. its where i learned about epdm roofs.

i think it will be fine over the actual osb but not the joins if the are not flush. shame she didnt use that expanding pva glue. all of my vinyl flooring is suck down around the edges only with double sided tape, on the concrete flooring they sprayed some spray glue down first. just push it into the edges with a blunt bolster chisel or some thin wood and it creases it, then cut with sharp knife.

decent stainless is not magnetic.

looks like an opening window that is unable to open 😆 get an old gasket/ wallpaper scraper and see if the inner seal comes out as suggested. if not go outside and wedge it in the gap between the glass moulding and frame and twist it to see if it start loosening the moulding, the sides will come out first. the mouldings come out fist then the glass then the frames. i bet its held in by the worlds longest phillips screws. weird how the lower moulding has a built in drip bead setup. just save yourself the misery and cut around the reveals on the inside with a stanley knife, then, just put the glass through and sabre saw the frames in the middle top/bottom and bend them outwards snapping all the screws.

225mm uPVC Plastic Window Sill in lengths 1m, 1.35m, 2m and 2.5m | Truly PVC - Conservatory Window Door Roofline and Building Products if you look at a cross section of a window sill like in the link above you will see that the window frame sits on the raised section and butts up against the back stop. "usually" when fitting fames and sills etc,, you slap a bead of silicone along the rear edge of the raised section and then along the side so that any water that finds its way in, either from driving rain or from water getting into the frame will drain out the front, you leave the front gap open. then you screw the two together from underneath AKA in from the bottom of the sill into the window frame. the gap in the black rubber trim in your final image is just where the rubber has shrank. on your first image,, if thats a gap between the bottom of the frame and the sill then i would squirt a bead of silicone in the gap and down the sides as suggested above then drive some screws in down from the top to clamp the two back together.

twinwall polycarbonate sheeting. but i think its just going to be a massive sail. make sure you screw the roof down solid.

Cloaking Fillet Finishing Trim | Eurocell thats the stuff you want. superglue it to the window frame then a bit of silicone and caulk of you have some gaps. or if you dont like trim then a massive thick bead of caulk. intrigued to know what the outside looks like if the frames are narrower than the plasterboard reveals. Bead Finishing Trim | Eurocell may aswel get some trim for along the wondow board to hide where the frame meets the sill.

shame about the bond.

there is some guy on youtube who builds loads of these garden rooms and he never seems to build any gaps in the roof. he just fills them full of kingspan then seals them up. id be inclined to put vented soffit at each end.

1mm insect mesh stuck to the back. Some vented soffit looks terrible so choose wisely.

ive seen people use the wheels off the first bit of kit in gyms as weight plates so they have a decent value. remember chassis numbers and log books have a decent value for some old cars.