gaz_moose

i think it will be fine over the actual osb but not the joins if the are not flush. shame she didnt use that expanding pva glue. all of my vinyl flooring is suck down around the edges only with double sided tape, on the concrete flooring they sprayed some spray glue down first. just push it into the edges with a blunt bolster chisel or some thin wood and it creases it, then cut with sharp knife.

decent stainless is not magnetic.

looks like an opening window that is unable to open 😆 get an old gasket/ wallpaper scraper and see if the inner seal comes out as suggested. if not go outside and wedge it in the gap between the glass moulding and frame and twist it to see if it start loosening the moulding, the sides will come out first. the mouldings come out fist then the glass then the frames. i bet its held in by the worlds longest phillips screws. weird how the lower moulding has a built in drip bead setup. just save yourself the misery and cut around the reveals on the inside with a stanley knife, then, just put the glass through and sabre saw the frames in the middle top/bottom and bend them outwards snapping all the screws.

225mm uPVC Plastic Window Sill in lengths 1m, 1.35m, 2m and 2.5m | Truly PVC - Conservatory Window Door Roofline and Building Products if you look at a cross section of a window sill like in the link above you will see that the window frame sits on the raised section and butts up against the back stop. "usually" when fitting fames and sills etc,, you slap a bead of silicone along the rear edge of the raised section and then along the side so that any water that finds its way in, either from driving rain or from water getting into the frame will drain out the front, you leave the front gap open. then you screw the two together from underneath AKA in from the bottom of the sill into the window frame. the gap in the black rubber trim in your final image is just where the rubber has shrank. on your first image,, if thats a gap between the bottom of the frame and the sill then i would squirt a bead of silicone in the gap and down the sides as suggested above then drive some screws in down from the top to clamp the two back together.

twinwall polycarbonate sheeting. but i think its just going to be a massive sail. make sure you screw the roof down solid.

Cloaking Fillet Finishing Trim | Eurocell thats the stuff you want. superglue it to the window frame then a bit of silicone and caulk of you have some gaps. or if you dont like trim then a massive thick bead of caulk. intrigued to know what the outside looks like if the frames are narrower than the plasterboard reveals. Bead Finishing Trim | Eurocell may aswel get some trim for along the wondow board to hide where the frame meets the sill.

shame about the bond.

there is some guy on youtube who builds loads of these garden rooms and he never seems to build any gaps in the roof. he just fills them full of kingspan then seals them up. id be inclined to put vented soffit at each end.

1mm insect mesh stuck to the back. Some vented soffit looks terrible so choose wisely.

ive seen people use the wheels off the first bit of kit in gyms as weight plates so they have a decent value. remember chassis numbers and log books have a decent value for some old cars.

my guess would be that you fix them with brackets, id probably use compriband around the sides, then i would silicone them with soudal lmn on the outside.

tbh you should be able to get a decent price for it on facebook marketplace. i just sold a few sheets of 100mm celotex for £2 less than what i paid for them new.

just butt joint the corners then run a bead of silicone down them. corners not being 90 degree's is not really a problem, if the walls are wibbly wobbly i would probably just fit new walls. a pair window fitters suction handles make the job way easier if your panels are big.

ive fitted the fibo ones, i lined the walls with green plasterboard then stuck the panels on with stixall and used down conning 785+ between the tong and grooves. you can do corners with the corner trims but they look awful so just plan your way of doing it. i did 3 wall around a bath. idid the long side of the bath first then the rest. you can cut them will a skill saw or a jig saw easy enough. but put tape on the faces. replasterbarding the walls means ypu can get them nice and level so you dont have awkward corners.

what wall panel are they fitting? as some of it is rubbish

id probably put some soffit vents in the top of opposing walls. get some with 1mm insect mesh already fitted or glue some on the back.

foam it, then trim it, then silicone it. how are they actually fitted in? if you open the window sashes are there big screws going through the frames? Window Sill | Window Board | Eurocell

i think i know the stuff you mean, it usually has a coloured fleck so its not completely black. they had that in a gym i used to go to and in the summer it expanded and left load of big bubbles to trip over. my chain of thoughts is that these would be less likely to curl up at the corners if the clipped together but i can see it being a pain to fit if the manufacturing tolerances are on the slack side. they say to just slap it down over whatever is underneath with no gluing required. when you say you glued it do you mean all of it or just the edges like fitting linoleum flooring? or like you were sticking down a rubber roof never to come off again.

I want to put some rubber flooring down in a room that im doing and i didn't really want horse matts beacause i don't like the grooves/ dimple finish. Ive seen that a few folk on here have been lavish enough to build a gym room so thought I would ask what flooring they went with and if they would choose it again. ive seen this interlocking stuff which seems a better idea than the usual jigsaw puzzle stuff. but im wondering if its a pig of a job to fit. Rubber Gym Floor Tiles | 2 Mat Pack of Heavy Duty 14mm Interlocking 900 x 900mm | eBay

id just use box profile sheet, painting the whole thing in some kind of sealer sounds like a massive amount of work. sounds like it wont be your problem in 3 years. sometimes box sheeting and the insulated stuff is cheaper if you get a rubbish colour.

sounds like something has either snapped off or wore out. do they look like they come apart? some nuts and some threaded rod should get you back in the game.

looks like the external sill is now built into the walls, which makes it interesting as the sill is usually screwed into the bottom of the frame (from the bottom). open a window and look to see if they have screwed through the sides of the frames into the walls when fitting them, if not then they have probably been fitted with straps that will be buried under the plaster. looks like they have fitted trim up the sides of the frame on the outside, so hopefully it is a bit undersize which will give you some wiggle room getting it out and the render is stuck to the trim and not the frame, although the trim will be superglued to the frame. externally glazed too just to add to the fun. probably just been foamed in LOL. a multi tool will cut through the frames. i think my plan of attack would be to cut the plasterboard off the top and one of the sides about 2" away from the corner bead then about 2" away from the frame on the other side. measure the size of window needed aiming for a looser fit than normal 😆. id be tempted to just cut the old sill out with a multitool and make the 'horns' of the new sill slightly bigger to cover over what's been buried in the EWI. then just screw and foam the new one in.

i used my evolution circular saw with the multipurpose blades as my table saw is only a DIY jobbie so hasn't the width capacity. the circular saw only cut about half the depth, but this gives a good guide for a handsaw so it wont cut on the piss. i found my bacho prizecut saw worked the best. i usually use it for upvc stuff.

the coloured ones are not usually painted they are just thick solid plastic sheets stuck over the inside material, the cheap ones are foam filled and the expensive ones are wood inside. then you get metal ones which are handy if you sell drugs. if you go looking in the showroom look at the bottom of the door to see if you can see the wood where they have just cut the slab to height. coloured frames are foil wrapped not the door itself. ive seen some of the lesser ones with mushrooms growing out them where water has got inside. mine is prostitute red and expands and sticks in the sunlight. don't buy an open outwards as they are wild when its windy and you bash all the delivery drivers. mine is just from Eurocell and was about £650 pre covid.

ive also a load of 100mm to cut so your suggestion made me wonder if i can use my track saw.