gaz_moose

i put the 600x600 tile effect fibo panels in mine when i did it. mainly because i had lost loads of enthusiasm at that point and just wanted it done. They were easy enough to fit, i used my glass fitting suction handle thingy's. the trim for those god awful plastic panels are the same size and wayy cheaper to buy.

if its emulsion then a warm wet sponge will do it.

just find someone on a local facebook group who is having a kitchen ripped out and pilfer their old sink/worktop. rest the worktop between your washing machine and fridge. drain into a bucket etc..

why is the beading on the outside?

i saw your post and that's what had me looking at them, but i wasn't fond of the personnel door or the windows. i found that you can buy the tongue and groove wood but then you wouldn't have the 'wind and water tight' joints on the ends. do you have to hammer the corners together much when building the walls?, im just wondering what stops the roof from blowing off if its only screwed to the top beams.

be interested to see how you attach the doors and windows etc.. to allow the structure to expand and contract without distortion issues.

sounds like you have answered your own question. you could always just plug a 1KW fan heater in set to frost protection if you were leaving the building empty over the winter months and was worried.

it was just a cheap ebay no name supplier, less than £100 all in, but it was probably 2018/ 2019 so precovid prices. ebay/amazon/manomano/ Victoria plumb are probably the places to look 😬 ( cant believe i recommended Victoria plumbing)

i was in a similar position and just bought the cheapest one i could find. which looked identical to yours and i was surprised on how decent it actually was. i think mine was closer to 1m and was a bit bendy being only 6mm so yours will probably be better being narrower. just make sure you fit the hinges the right way around so the water drains inwards.

id probably brick up the window and stick a worktop with a sink along that wall, then put floor to ceiling units along the 390 wall to house the fridge freezer etc.. could you stick an upright radiator on one of the remaining walls?

probably cheaper to cut up some threaded bar or to use coach bolts that using an engineering type bolt. its not like you need grade 8.8 or above for a shed.

+1 for gripit fixings.

just unclog them.

how confident are you that there is actually another offer?

for perspective my barber charges £15 for a 15 minute hair cut, they are open 7 days a week and have 4 barbers in total. they are always booked solid 2/3 weeks in advance. if you want fancy stuff its even more time or money.

sit your lazer ontop of a spirit level packed up to level on the highest side of the shuttering. measure the height of the beam just infront of the lazer then measure the height of the beam at the other end of the shuttering and deduct your first measurement, that will tell you your fall.

i had this happen from leyland trade waterbased stuff from screwfix once when painting internal doors. id come to the conclusion it was excess water. i found going over them lightly with a damp brush got rid of them. having damp brushes/rollers before you start seems to help.

Contact adhesive is what i used to stick the end trims on my chipboard worktops. id be confident to use it to stick your cupboard door back together if i had too.

sounds like you need a new roof.

no sill and low threshold.

can you slide a piece of paper between the frame and the opener? get a straight edge, like a spirit level or a piece of mdf and see if the frame and openers are straight or if they have bowed.

take the lid off, decant some of the water in it and pour in sealant.

my combi boiler was on a 13 amp 3 pin plug for a while until the actual wiring was ran.

id just felt over it, or build it out of flash band.

just leave them as bare brick.