gaz_moose

usually the grate on the drain has a hole for the pipe to poke through. my 1980's built house is the same. it would be worth re-pointing your blown out brickwork where the pipe exits your wall

is the company FENSA or CERTAS approved? sounds like you need to be speaking to them. looks like they have got the angles wrong on the bay.

i wouldn't be offering him any brown envelopes as it will just spiral.

ive a timber framed lean too conservatory that i use as a bit of a workshop and its either freezing or boiling. ive been known to wear ear defenders when working inside when its been lashing it down with rain. personally i would just put a proper roof on, 18mm osb with felt would be vastly superior. you could go even better and whack some tapco tiles ontop similar to these companies who convert conservatories to proper rooms and circumnavigate conservatory roof rules. Although if you do like the idea of using multiwall polycarbonate sheeting then i would recommend getting the thickest one you can find and preferably tinted. mine is just single cell sheeting and was probably clear once but has turned a milky yellow colour. having more cells would probably make it more thermally efficient and reduce the melting effect of the sun when inside.

all the cheap air hammers will be about the same, i would just buy a £20 one and see how it manages the task. they are very air hungry so remember to stop often to let your compressor catch up/cool down. squirting a drop of oil down the air inlet hole at the start of every day should help to keep it alive.

why does it need the extra bit of pipe stuck on the end of what looks like a flexi toilet pan connector?? id be tempted to build a box around it so it looks like your rooflight lower down. or disguise it as a chimney, but i think the exit angle would rule out most off the shelf items.

Plug sockets half way up the wall. plan where you would mount handrails in advance. wheel chair width doors. its literally endless. where my nan lived the window openers were on wall mounted gearboxes so you didn't have to reach the windows to open them.

will you be able to see the carcasses through the gaps in the doors?

id normally use the 'pic and dip' method for laying bricks and figured that would not really work for blocks, hence the back to school sessions. thanks everyone for the advice.

ive never tried it before today so am glad to hear a review saying its crap. at least i know its not just the batch i mixed up.

lime and sand only mortar is just for practicing with, instead of using cement so that it can be used over and over again without setting or sticking to stuff. I can lay bricks decent enough but have never laid a block so though i would just have a mess around with some first. Once ive got the hang of blocks the plan is to build a single skin garage with them which will be part rendered and part clad so the blockwork doesn't have to be amazing. i didnt really want to waste any plasticiser on something that was just going to go in the bin.

I've loads of blocks to lay but have never laid a block in my life so knocked up some training mortar to practice with before i decide if im going to get a brickie in or not. i mixed it 4:1 Sand: Hydrated lime but it seems flat as hell, almost like its just wet sand. should i try adding some washing-up liquid to act as a plasticiser to fluff it up a bit? or is this type of mix usually like this? its all new to me and im just winging it ? i know washing up liquid is frowned upon but this is only for playing with to help get my confidence/speed up.

just fix wooden battens to the roof beams, slot celotex between them and cover it in that space blanket insulation tinfoil stuff then clad it in T+G pvc bathroom ceiling.

i sealed the gaps in my concrete sectional garage with screwfix own brand exterior caulk about 2 years ago and its been fine so far. although i think a 25mm gap is to big for caulk, personally i would stick some PVC trim up, no one is going to notice it all the way up there.

didn't he build a smaller house that he was going to sell to help finance this one, i thought that Omaze house competition with the annoying old hag woman raffled the other finished one off.

a company called bigdug sell the foam square ones in different colours. id be tempted to use carpet tiles as they are fairly easy to replace if you ruin one or two, although they are not very impact absorbant.

personally i would put rubber gym matting type flooring down. the thick stuff like they use in stables for horses, so that you dont have to worry about damaging it. my conservatory has become my gym now and it has ceramic tiles ? so im just waiting till one gets broken.

Hansgrohe Isiflex Shower Hose Chrome 5.5mm x 1.6m | Shower Hoses | Screwfix.com these are plastic coated and smooth. they do clear ones if you dont like spaceship silver but you will see its just a regular one with a covering on the outside.

how can you build a partition wall between the two windows when their is a gas/electric meter between the two? if you ceiling is the whole way along then pop one of the spot lights out and see if it has any insulation in it? id probably put insulated plasterboard on the walls and clad it in that semi decent looking bathroom panelling.

the brackets above concrete screwed into the walls, assuming they are not partition walls.

a thin coat of acid etch primer then a paint that is high in zinc.

I put Ikea Pax units behind Slide Pro sliding doors when i was faced with a similar issue,i did cut the pax units to get them to fit the space better, i thought it was a neat trick.

how do these warm roof/ lightweight roof companies get away with removing the old glass/plastic roofs and fitting solid roofing? im sure the regulations are that the roof must be 75% translucent to class as a conservatory.

ive just redone mine around the bath, which was fibo wall panels so i didnt want to risk any silicone removers. i used a snap off blade knife and a razor blade type scraper. it wasn't too bad of a task. i went over it with some everbuild wonderwipes to get the last bits off. i was worried the silicone removers might damage the wetwall so chickened out and went old school. the wipes are good for cleaning off freshly applied silicone.

i just went for the cheap no name amazon ones and they have been fantastic. i was sceptical about the BTU's but i have the same sized rooms with normal radiators and they basically the same.