TonyT

Didn’t spot that, thanks!

7p for gas is a bit steep, you could half that cost by shopping about!

Building control won’t notice that, they aren’t interested….

Isolation of the electrical supply before the cables enter the lean-to. To make it safe for demolition. Cables could then be put into a waterproof socket or joint box to keep the cabling or removal back to the fuse board or nearest electrical point.

I wouldn’t have a surface box anywhere in a new home that’s being modernised… garage/shed/workshop excluded…

As above and hopefully the steel was pre drilled to make life easy!

dry lining boxes may be worth a look?

Sleeping pipes is good practice, Use the next pipe diameter up and embed this into the wall and pass the smaller diameter pipe through the sleeve.

Keep mentioning EICR as it’s the logical thing to do, and as a former spark giving you some free advise with nothing to gain from it

Ours sits in a 6” thick concrete slab above ground level

Put a floor drain into a concrete slab and tie it into the rainwater pipe work that’s close by. larger units generate more condensate I have a 70kW ASHP at work done in this manner worked perfectly since installed in 2013.

I’ve made some hardwood pads before, chamfered edges so they look good and fixed these and painted the same colour as the wall. it allowed the vertical radiator bracket to be supported perfectly.

I would pay an electrician for an EICR as a good starting point to see what’s what. You could change your consumer unit to RCBO’s and a circuit could be faulty, the fuse wouldn’t detect it but the rcbo would so you would be left with no power to this circuit. What would you do then. inside of consumer unit looks neat, gromett strip etc so hopefully the rest of the installation could be to the same standard.

Yes you can spur off a socket circuit to feed anything in this case the fuse limits the draw to 13 amp for this addition.

Put the exterior lighting in the downstairs socket circuit if you want, for example, find socket on outside wall, remove socket, drill through back of box to the outside. Fit RCD spur in waterproof box or waterproof spur and wire away your garden lights. you could add a WiFi spur after the RCD spur and just control the lights via a phone or something.

Best to submit drawings to building control once planning is passed for the next hurdle. ask the architect if they work closely with any particular structural engineer

Can you not lay an appropriate duct yourself back to the street pavement to speed the process up for them when they finally get round to understand you are a customer who wishes to give them money on a regular basis and that’s really good for business

Pull the units forward and put a decorative end panel to hide the gap.

You have an import MPAN You have a home address, so that’s 2 bits of info you could have given them

Instead of nails can you use serrated washers and flat washers with bolts?

What’s your ceiling height in the room? it may be less grief to drop the ceiling and do an independent ceiling not tied to the floor upstairs, it will also give the opportunity to add further sound insulation. I think this would be the easiest, less grief laden route to go down.

It’s Just a story about how you plan to do the work, how to work safely and all the other things that few people pay attention to when work actually starts.

Have a look at BES

Get the hose out !

Best just ask the SE, it’s his design, there is no AAV on the drawing and BC have passed it.