TonyT

What about some on the heat miser site?

I have no issue with it, onoff mentioned it.

Just make sure there is a full length over the door fixed centrally then there will be no sag from a join. a bit of all round band or metal tie rap inside the trunking fixed to the wall above the door will solve any worries about pre collapse/fire escape issues. nothing wrong in buying bends, speeds the installation process up. make sure you have your continuity straps across the joins😏

Fix to anything you want when the wall plate is on fire the trunking is to be replaced anyway. I hate 2x2 trunking. It’s a hand cutter prefer 3x3. A bit more room for bushes etc

Pass, is there any fire strategy drawings? I appreciate you are doing a lot of work yourself, I don’t get involved in fire risk assessments , just follow their guidance as I like to have others put their insurance/design on the line. but worth looking into sealing of risers/penetrations with some experience. https://www.thebesa.com/media/1409061/firestopping-of-service-penetrations-guide.pdf

Do you need a fire collar around the pipe? How are you sealing the penetration?

bend it on your knee. or drill a 10mm hole through a bot of wood and bend it with that. rod bends easily rebar not so much👌

Rewire replumb heat loss for heating upgrade CH pipe work and radiators allow for existing boiler or heat pump position while repiping.

No. Use another bracket and rod, just bend the rod to the angle, will look loads better and offer more support. all round band is for fixing straight to walls and ceilings or pipe insulation touching structure.

It’s vehicle to load isn’t it?

I would require and re plumb before fitting insulation to the suspended timber floor

Maybe get the electrician to supply? saves you running around picking up stuff you don’t know about. you supplying the clips too?

On larger contracts we keep an agreed percentage back until end of defects /12 months after handover. if you haven’t agreed anything tell them to get lost.

Alarm generally gives an indication of a high level set point, so check to see if it’s lots of flow, tangled float switches or something broken We have ours connected to autodiallers so we get text alerts.

I hate these. I have a suspended timber floor and under one of the rads on the outside wall I have tees fitted to the flow and return, these are then taken to 2 isolating valves with another tee in the middle with this going outside. no need for hoses etc when draining down. my hatch is next to the radiator so makes everything easy.

If you are in town water no issue as it’s chlorinated and hopefully the system has been designed with no dead legs, has good turnover. in my opinion it’s not a risk in a domestic situation. if it’s a business well you have to comply with L8 regulations I look after legionella at my place of work

You wrap it around the pipe and put a single screw through both ‘ends’ of the all round band/bow band.

Yes I use the same, but didn’t want to complicate it…👌

I would use whatever thickness is suitable for the clips you plan to install so you can get the maximum insulation without making the installation ridiculously difficult. I would use climaflex inside.

All the best mate! keep well!

I thought it was bad tiling!

Asbestos was added to everything back in the day. best thing ever invented they said. 82 is 17 years before they got round to banning it in construction, sure it was 1999.

Or if you are feeling flush use a rise kit!

I like peak testers for my electronics, and they do this kit https://www.rapidonline.com/Peak-UTP05E-Ultimate-Atlas-IT-Set-UTP05-IDT8A-IDT8B-IDT8C-RJA11-and-RJC08-85-2079?IncVat=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=surfaces across google&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu_nK1dfq-gIVDe3tCh1icwvQEAQYCCABEgI3ZfD_BwE it’s good has a selection of numbered plugs, so when you have lost cable identification, you plug them into the sockets, go to the patch panel, and it identifies each one as you plug it in, saves a bit of time.

Structural Engineer