TonyT

I think that’s the way I would go too

Got to justify the job, life would be too easy I’d we discussed things face to face and came to a conclusion.

Can you not use a relay connected to the lamp output to give you a volt free contact?

What about quinetic pir and floodlights?

As above

I can’t see the BCO having any issue with any of these defects. the downlight may go further if you push the fitting and give it a clockwise turn at the same time? maybe the springs behind the downlight need bend a little to push onto the plasterboard a bit more..

I hate mucking about with anything less than a 100mm duct, for power runs to unknown equipment. but I don’t do domestic work so client are happy to fork out for ducting and drawpits.

Bed it in a mortar mix, back fill with similar mortar/concrete

Run a duct and install a draw rope aloes for future proofing. also let’s civils get underway without having full electrical design

I have a Charnwood 4 in a lounge that’s probably the same size but 3m high ceilings - Victorian building and the stove can be overpowering, i just open the door and heat the hallway, bedrooms off the hall etc. Strange that 5 kW can’t raise the temp? wood seasoned ok? Would a couple of electric heaters heat the room? As an experiment to see how much input you need? probably worth doing heat loss calcs!

Any insulation in the loft? Dontou have a suspended timber floor? Any insulation under that?

Only if you want it to be https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-inspection-chamber-riser-450-x-235mm/57228?tc=MC3&ds_kid=92700055281954505&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiMmMjqqp-gIVCbTtCh2IhAsHEAQYASABEgL8zPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Ah mine is outside a building with the lid supported by the backfill and pipe itself. what about manhole risers?

I have one down a hole with a 450 mm duct on top keeping a concrete slab dry, so works for me. been in 1 year.. in sure there will be bespoke solutions but I just needed a fix to the problem

Put a gorilla tub in the hole. drill some holes in the tub , drop pump into gorilla tub. sorted

Maybe the local electrical wholesaler or you can use a standard earth bar and then shiort cables to the battery from the bar- think the off the shelf ones are rated at approx 700 amps.

You can buy copper strip we used to make our own clips when we had multiple pyro runs in parallel of course this was 30 years ago. You could probably use https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/17254-bare-copper-single-fixing-clip-37-pack-of-50 and go Size up, cut a piece of timber the dimension of t&e and dress the clip? all sounds like a lot of work though..

Hope you have an area set aside for wash down of the chute etc? just so they can clean up before leaving site

https://www.toolstation.com/safe-d-40-fire-rated-cable-clips/p92908?store=D6&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=_dm&pcrid=&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs9C8tceh-gIVDpftCh10lgrSEAQYByABEgKVG_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds may look odd without the trunking?

Why not just use normal t&e clips and when you are finished wiring go back and add metal t&e hammer in clips every metre?

Wouldn’t be me supplying a critical shared piece of equipment….. when it hits the fan it’s not going to be good, save the money for the leccy bill

The only benefit I see from BG is when they are fault diagnosing, ability to keep changing parts until the problem is resolved..

I would upgrade it to a larger size, minimal cost and less likely to freeze so that’s got to be good.

I would say that given Nick has offered free advise on this forum for years would answer your question….

Or plastic pipework