TonyT

you wouldn’t mind sharing the make and model would you, I’m looking at one for the downstairs hall for winter heating, maxing the unit out on the cheap night time slot( at the moment) and on and off as required. i see it supplementing the GCH

Mini digger will have that out in no time, it’s finding somewhere for the spoil/paying for removal that can build up

Personally I think the Drayton range of 2 channel controllers are the best and easiest to understand, have the 1 hour boost button and don’t need a degree in engineering to program. in the situation you describe best to just prove functionality of the existing and if required swap like for like with no wiring modifications required.

Paint it and put a label on it, adjacent to it explaining the function so the next person working on it has an idea

Looks like 3 twin and earths from the photo so totally agree with Dave above. Live/Line and Neutral in - 1 cable Live/Line and Neutral out- 1 cable 1 Live/Line and Switch wire - 1 cable

It can be used on 230 volt but not a 13 amp plug top, needs hardwired as others also have advised.

no it doesn’t matter, it means the 3.25 amp power supply will run cooler, as it’s not fully loaded

Have a Google for John cantor he’s been installing heat pumps for about 30 years he has a good book

Would be better fitting the pir to the opening, sealing it up and then fixing the tiles. more effective air tightness that way

About £7 a day for me in my Victorian 180m2 property in Scotland. stat rides 19/20 deg C

https://www.heat-engineer.com/ spend £10 for a one off report and fill in the info on your whole house, sizes, window, radiators, etc to get a heat loss calculation and start to base your improvements on data.

https://insulation4less.co.uk/collections/insulated-plasterboard or you could buy insulation separate from the plasterboard. but you get the idea.

me, I would sheet over the existing, less grief and mess if the roof layout can take the reduction of approx 112mm. if not pull the ceiling down. I hate messing about with roofs

Depends if you want to pull ceiling down and insulate between rafters, reinstall plasterboard, plaster/tape or fix insulated plasterboard direct to ceiling, then plaster/tape.

A couple speedfit 15mm and 22mm push fit blanks

Thermal camera does work, at least the expensive ones show this detail.

Dig it out and don’t tell anyone, it’s slack so not doing anything.

Peace of mind ability to let ‘experts’ deal with the situation, use the van full of spares to get you up and running. as you get older you probably become more risk averse.

A 6.5x5 x2.4m box, with 6 m2of glazing. 3 outside walls , uninsulated floor and roof, solid walls, with outside air temp of minus 3 and internal temp of 21 deg would take approx 11kw of heating, using rough dimplex room calculator, so 8kW stove in a room used properly would lift temps a fair bit.

If you are on a cheaper night time tariff, it will be most cost effective compared to gas, particularly if you can heat during the cheap time period

You need to get some heat loss calculations done calculation is used for any type of heating system and will take the guess work out of it.

Your handsome bin cover over your external unit will no doubt block air flow. Spray the covers to match the surrounding and leave at that

No you increase your power before the deal, and then go low during the time period and you get more payment rebate.. as your ‘savings’ are higher others on a different forum have been doing this.

Can’t believe an 8.5kW stove isn’t heating that room!