Roundtuit

Local Planning Authority ?

No, I don't notice the noise. It's not silent, but not intrusive; just part of the background noise, like a whisper from the MVHR and the hum of the fridge! Anyway, back to the 'one radiator' test now! ?

OK, just watched the video, and there might be some variation of what 'setback' refers to. I would expect that under normal circumstances you should be running in Auto mode, with the scheduler set to deliver the required temperature for each time period.

My system has a nighttime set back too, with ufh downstairs and rads upstairs. The setback period finishes about 0600 I think, and everything is up to temperature within an hour or so, but it then it only has a few degrees to lift.

Yes. Because the system is never actually off, its just 'set back' to a lower temperature at certain times of the day. For example, its set for 22c early morning so its pleasant to get out of bed, set back to 18c during the day, and back up to 22c for the evening. As it 'on' all the time, it never has to work its bo!!ocks off making up a big heat deficit.

Fixed.

Page 21. You're welcome.

I have to agree; it seems to getting more and more acceptable to not know the difference between 'bought' and 'brought' or to use a comma where an apostrophe should be. Boils my pi$$. Bye the way, it's 'jamb', not 'jam'. ?

....none taken ?

Mods, please, No! Don't close it, embrace it! This thread embodies all of the traits required for self-building; perseverance, a sense of humour, physical and mental robustness, the consumption of alcohol, self-learning, resilience, the consumption of alcohol, tolerance, the consumption of alcohol... @zoothornwe may may take the pi$$ a bit, but please be assured that everyone wants the best outcome for you. (Except maybe @pocster he's a badass)

Sounds like you're using your contractors foundation design service perhaps? If that's the case, it might just be down to their experience in the locality and/or their view of the risk (belt & braces approach!)

You can just bend it to 90 degrees within the joist depth, no need for joints. Best to try and avoid too many sharp bends though.

I'd expect the number and position of piles to be specified by whoever is designing the foundations (structural engineer?), probably based on a soil survey. The actual depth of piles is a bit of an educated guess, as the piles need to be driven until they meet a specified level of resistance; that may vary a bit from piles to pile, but probably not by much. If you've any neighbours that have had piles done, try and find out what depth to give you a better guide. My contractor offered money back if the quoted depth wasn't needed.

Welcome! There's a load of real-world ashp experience here, so hopefully you can find something of use.

Has anyone else noticed that you never see Jeremy Harris and Zoot in the room at the same time? Just putting it out there....?

Is this another 'balancegate' misunderstanding? The hardware you have there may be correctly installed - fixed to walls, piped up, with no leaks. The conclusion everyone is coming to however, in the absence of hard data, is that it may all be the incorrect sized kit for the job. Hence the "install" (the whole job) is incorrect. The Vailant guys, I suspect, will have checked for pressure, leaks, and the way their unit is plumbed in etc, but not your heat loss calculations and radiator specs.

Sorry, no direct experience, but you can get something 'trade rated' from screwfix for not much more money, then at least you can take it back easily if the proverbial wheels fall off! I also knew a removal guy (man with a van) who bought his 2 sets from Aldi (not currently available I think) and they were great, so I don't think you have spend big to get a decent set.

I got my self build insurance through a brokers, Versatile Insurance (down in Devon I think), and they were the best deal I could find at the time. Might be worth a call to get a comparative price. Good luck!

Just bear in mind that anything off the heating system will only provide heat when the heating is on, as opposed to the traditional airing cupboard housing a dhw tank. A small electric tubular heater might not be a bad call, maybe switched by a humidity sensor so it only runs when you need it?

Probably direct more of the heat straight up the chimney, but it might keep you warm cleaning the glass?

Sounds like you've got some negotiating to do ? Room sealed woodburner and mvhr gets my vote.

1. Not necessary but arguably nice to have, though only you can do the cost/benefit calculation. Any extra heat you put into the house (assuming good insulation and mvhr) saves the heat pump running (again, look at air source) and isn't wasted. 2. Yes. We're pretty well insulated and airtight, but relying on heat from downstairs to heat upstairs wouldn't work for us. I guess it depends on how warm you like your bedroom and bathroom, but even if downstairs ufh manages to distribute heat evenly upstairs, our bedrooms have a mvhr feed, which at best will be at least 20% cooler. No heating upstairs would have been a mistake. Caveat: if had to wear more than shorts and t-shirt at any point in the day/year, I'd have been disappointed!

I paid similar money about 8 years ago for removal of an old garage that was part timber, part corrugated steel, part asbestos cement boards. I didn't fancy doing it myself, so got proper licenced demolition contractors in. They sent two blokes with a sledgehammer and chainsaw, in shorts and t-shirts, with a pair of gloves and sunglasses as PPE...

Looks interesting. Is there an outdoor version?

My advice would be to embrace the principles of bat conservation, engage with the experts, and gently push for a way forward that all parties can live with. Good luck! (... and that's to the bats too).