Roundtuit

I'd expect the number and position of piles to be specified by whoever is designing the foundations (structural engineer?), probably based on a soil survey. The actual depth of piles is a bit of an educated guess, as the piles need to be driven until they meet a specified level of resistance; that may vary a bit from piles to pile, but probably not by much. If you've any neighbours that have had piles done, try and find out what depth to give you a better guide. My contractor offered money back if the quoted depth wasn't needed.

Welcome! There's a load of real-world ashp experience here, so hopefully you can find something of use.

Has anyone else noticed that you never see Jeremy Harris and Zoot in the room at the same time? Just putting it out there....?

Is this another 'balancegate' misunderstanding? The hardware you have there may be correctly installed - fixed to walls, piped up, with no leaks. The conclusion everyone is coming to however, in the absence of hard data, is that it may all be the incorrect sized kit for the job. Hence the "install" (the whole job) is incorrect. The Vailant guys, I suspect, will have checked for pressure, leaks, and the way their unit is plumbed in etc, but not your heat loss calculations and radiator specs.

Sorry, no direct experience, but you can get something 'trade rated' from screwfix for not much more money, then at least you can take it back easily if the proverbial wheels fall off! I also knew a removal guy (man with a van) who bought his 2 sets from Aldi (not currently available I think) and they were great, so I don't think you have spend big to get a decent set.

I got my self build insurance through a brokers, Versatile Insurance (down in Devon I think), and they were the best deal I could find at the time. Might be worth a call to get a comparative price. Good luck!

Just bear in mind that anything off the heating system will only provide heat when the heating is on, as opposed to the traditional airing cupboard housing a dhw tank. A small electric tubular heater might not be a bad call, maybe switched by a humidity sensor so it only runs when you need it?

Probably direct more of the heat straight up the chimney, but it might keep you warm cleaning the glass?

Sounds like you've got some negotiating to do ? Room sealed woodburner and mvhr gets my vote.

1. Not necessary but arguably nice to have, though only you can do the cost/benefit calculation. Any extra heat you put into the house (assuming good insulation and mvhr) saves the heat pump running (again, look at air source) and isn't wasted. 2. Yes. We're pretty well insulated and airtight, but relying on heat from downstairs to heat upstairs wouldn't work for us. I guess it depends on how warm you like your bedroom and bathroom, but even if downstairs ufh manages to distribute heat evenly upstairs, our bedrooms have a mvhr feed, which at best will be at least 20% cooler. No heating upstairs would have been a mistake. Caveat: if had to wear more than shorts and t-shirt at any point in the day/year, I'd have been disappointed!

I paid similar money about 8 years ago for removal of an old garage that was part timber, part corrugated steel, part asbestos cement boards. I didn't fancy doing it myself, so got proper licenced demolition contractors in. They sent two blokes with a sledgehammer and chainsaw, in shorts and t-shirts, with a pair of gloves and sunglasses as PPE...

Looks interesting. Is there an outdoor version?

My advice would be to embrace the principles of bat conservation, engage with the experts, and gently push for a way forward that all parties can live with. Good luck! (... and that's to the bats too).

Just give them notice when you plan to get 'messy', so they can close their windows. Sounds like worry-arsing about what might happen without much foundation. In my experience from renovation work, any 'dust cloud events' are infrequent and short-lived.

Sorry to hear thing's haven't worked out. At times like this, I like to think that 'fate' might actually be a thing, and stuff happens for a reason. The best is yet to come!

I think upvc or anything painted might scuff-up over time. What about timber with a bit of aluminium angle trim screwed over it?

Not sure there's an easy way to achieve the 20% criteria easily, but someone electrical will surely be along shortly! Maybe 2 circuits; one set of 'ambient lighting' on a stand-alone photocell sensor on all night, then your brighter pir 'task lighting' on a stand-alone photocell/pir sensor?

Google '10mm plug cutter'. You can get a set of cutters on Amazon delivered tomorrow for £11. Bound to come in useful in the future ? And well done, Happy New Year!

Dehumidifier. In our last place (old 4 storey town house), we pretty much lived in the basement and closed off the stairs to keep the heat in during winter. With 2 adults, 2 kids, a dog and cooking etc, the windows were running with condensation every morning. We bought a dehumidifier for about £100 or so IIRC, and left it in the corner doing its thing 24/7. Its amazing how much water they take out of the air. We still use it now in the new place occasionally if we've got a lot of wet clothes to dry.

If that's a Neff combi-oven you're describing, you may be able to change the settings so that microwave becomes the primary function; one press to wake it up, one press to set it running on ours!

Coo, coo, coo! Welcome aboard!

Hi. Yes, its on their website, and page 11 of the user guide.We-Build-It-A5-Manuals.pdf

You may be correct, but that's still the manufacturers formal advice.

We've got a biopure 2; my understanding is that its important to be consistent with the inputs (no.s 1&2 taken as read) i.e same detergents etc, so you gradually build up a tank full of bugs tolerant to your lifestyle. Can't see a water softener having any significant impact tbh.

Dress the brickwork under the doors with lead to make sure any run-off from a small sill is directed below dpc?