Roundtuit

Supply and fit should be zero rated. Nothing dodgy there!

I did ours with a lump hammer and bolster. Hours of fun! English Garden Wall bond though, so not quite so many required.

Me too. Never used them; normal airflow does the job ok, and the internal humidistat sorts out bath/shower steam.

Where does the land drainage pipe go to? If you need a French drain around your house to get surface water away, I'm not sure it sounds like a good idea to dump all of your roof water into it too...

Sorry, just read up on the 10yr rule; I now understand that hmrc view 'conversion' and '10 Yr rule' renovation as effectively the same thing. Every day's a school day!

Not if it was previously a residential dwelling as the OP suggests, surely? I thought that applied for converting old offices/commercial buildings etc into dwellings?

A sketch or photo will help someone come up with a workable solution 😉

Zambelli galvanised guttering here. Easy to fit with a hacksaw, and tin snips for fitting the hoppers. Very pleased with it.

Someone better qualified to comment will surely be along soon, but the lead should be dressed down to match the profile of the tile I think, to stop rain blowing in.

That doesn't apply to purpose-built tractors, combines, sprayers etc when being used for agricultural/forestry work though. They can still use red with no specific distance limits, as can agricultural contractors.

Hmm. I assume this is front of the house, and that's a garage below? If so, can you take the central downpipe straight down vertically to the point you can get it through the wall into the garage, do the diagonal bit out of site, then bring it back out into the right hand downpipe? Still not ideal, but a bit more symmetrical. You could do you internal bit with soil pipe fittings to sort out any problems with angles. On second thoughts, maybe do the right hand and central downpipes the same way, and run them internally to the left hand downpipe.

Our house and garage was on one Buildings Regs application. BC signed the house off before the garage was built without a problem, suggesting that I'd have to submit another application when the garage was complete. When the certificate came through however, it was as per the original application and included the non-existent garage. When I do get round to building the garage, I don't think I'll need to trouble them any further 🙂

Yes; think about this early. Some appliances are too deep to run a waste pipe behind them, so they'll stick out if you try. Depending on how your waste runs, it might dictate which side of the sink the dishwasher goes, and what else can fit in the same run.

Ours is a Neff combi (that sits alongside a fan oven), and metal shelves can stay in on the microwave setting. It does 95% of its work as a microwave for reheating and defrosting etc, plus occasional duties as a 'hot air' oven for roasting when I need a lower temp for a joint of meat than the main oven for the roast potatoes. I might have to rethink that practice under the current energy situation however...

Juggling so many balls is exhausting, so dropping one or two is par for the course. If it was easy, everyone would do it. Focus on what you'll end up with when the dust has settled; every day is a day closer to finishing!

Not sure what stage you're at, but no self-build insurance?? I couldn't imagine investing the time, effort and, more importantly cash without cover. I hope you get your flashing sorted ok, but I'd seriously look at getting your investment insured!

We've got a Hwam. I've nothing to compare it to in terms of keeping the glass clean, but I like the contemporary style, and it's room-sealed. We only usually light it in the evenings when outside temps are <10c, but it goes for a week or two without any messing about emptying the ash box.

Hard to guess without seeing the plans, but if I was going to dangle a couple of people off it, I'd probably use 6x2 doubled up. The strength is in the depth; 4 inches isn't enough over that span IMO.

I rang our local highways authority and asked them. Someone helpful checked the maps whilst I was on the phone and told me. They claimed 1m of verge measured from the outer edge of the footpath, which I guess is where services generally run. Suits me fine; I don't even charge them for mowing it ?

They'll deffo snap the next time ?

We've got trees above eaves height without a problem; just clean your gutters out regularly ?

That's ridiculous. You can maybe put a boundary kiosk in, and let them run overhead to the kiosk if they must, then bury the supply to the house.

I wouldn't worry about it; from memory, I think they have a slight lip that over-laps with the next channel. Any slight gap will soon silt up and losses will be minimal, but you can always smear a bit of gutter sealant over the join from above if you like. The main thing is that they are well bedded in mortar so they can't move.

As above, the wall needs to breathe really. If you can afford to loose the space, I'd batten and dry-line, incorporating a membrane and some insulation if you can. It will make a big difference to the heat loss and risk of damp, and reduce the risk of hairline cracks in your new plaster.

Sounds like your new installers know what they're doing and are trying to give you an effective system with the lowest running costs. I know you're scarred by the last attempt, but go with it; it will be fine (can't be any worse, can it?).