Roundtuit

I suspect the timber is a later addition to try and support the brickwork. Looks like the brickwork wasn't bonded very well when it was constructed and has possibly settled a bit over time (not unusual with old chimney stacks; there's a lot of weight there). I'd get a professional to have a look at it for peace of mind, but I'd rake out and stitch maybe every 5th or 6th course.

In a previous job I had to get rid of a dozen or so IBC'S that had gone brittle and got damaged. Not sure of timescales, but definitely several years rather than months, and I can only assume that was through weather and UV exposure. Google suggests a 10yr lifespan for an HDPE IBC, so I'd either cover them, or plan to replace if and when.

May be no need for a trap to stop smells if you're not connecting to a waste water system, but is it possible that your mvhr is drawing fresh air through the condensate drain, or losing warm air? Waterless trap on ours.

Of course...🙂

Looking good. A cable tie and a couple of self tappers would be easier than printing perhaps.

Try this:

Any plaster snots on the floor will just scrape off. I'd wait until plastering is completed to sand the laitance off the screed though, assuming sanding is a requirement.

Yep, less bugs. As above, the only ones that get in are the ones you let in when doors and windows are open, and they don't last long. We let the occasional spider in when opening the bi-folds or French doors, but I think the internal environment is too dry for them to last more than a couple of days.

In what way? I have a layer of insulation between floor & screed. Don't most people?

Heard similar about someone cleaning up after their new puppy. Turns out it had swallowed a few pebbles...

I've got flat/low spot in the gutter above my front door I need to adjust. Visually and functionally it's fine, but as above, the pigeons drink from it and $h!t on the doorstep...

Yup. Make sure you sit down for a pee at night, because when the pump kicks in, you'll $h!t yourself.

Yes, but there will be restrictions on lift and distance different models can do I suspect. You could potentially install a sewage pumping station in the floor; probably quieter than a saniflo.

I'd guess the dpc has failed, but I'd probably start with the chimney and check capping, flashing and ventilation. What's the topography like? Are you on the same level as your attached neighbour? Ground floor above external ground level?

Welcome! Ask the questions; there's lots of clever people on here with loads of experience, and we all learn from the answers!

I'm sure this has been covered elsewhere, but the government website doesn't mention listing at the Valuation Office, but does require a BC sign off as evidence of completion: https://www.gov.uk/vat-building-new-home/how-to-claim

Sorry, can't recommend anything, but as a last resort, if you feel strongly enough about it, you can just pop the aluminium cladding off and replace it, or maybe get it re-sprayed.

Include parking as well and that should cover it I would have thought. Do you need to do one? They're only really for bigger developments and listed building work I think. I did one years ago for a listed building application, and the 'access' part wasn't more than a paragraph from memory.

Definitely grout; it's structurally important for the block and beam and worth spending the time to do a good job. My builder did a bit of a slapdash job tbh. I ended up have to chip off a load of 'snots' so the insulation would sit properly flat and fill the bits he missed. Do it straight away after the block and beam goes down, or all the gaps will get full of crap and leaf debris, particularly as we head into an early autumn.

I'd just politely respond and explain what you've just posted. We moved in months before sign-off, and like you, got the house ready for sign-off as and when we could. It can't be unusual.

Batten the wall and bring the wall panel down on to the tray would be my suggestion.

Phew!

I did, I said 'No'. If you click on the link you posted and go back one page ('Back to Bright nails' - you were shopping in the Bright Nails section...), it tells you that bright nails are uncoated. Anyway, pleased you're sorted...

No; just go back a page and check the description of 'bright nails' 😉

I win, I win! Is there a prize?