Jump to content

Oz07

Members
  • Posts

    3415
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by Oz07

  1. I think going through a noggin is a lot less important than going through a stud. Not sure i'd want a 75mm hole in 89mm CLS
  2. 2 days is fine you're not going to do it in one if complex and nobodies going to kill themselves to earn half a day the next day. I would guess his truss estimate is miles out. Something like that take a Joey and me a week with all the bits and pieces, valley boards fascia soffit etc
  3. Also depending how complex the layout 2 days is plenty. I can do a pair of semi's in a day with a good labourer
  4. Just nail the first row to keep it straight. Honestly that glue goes off so quick. If you get any troublesome bits over hangers that aren't sitting flat perhaps screw these while the glues goes off then remove screws later if you wanted
  5. you mustn't value your time very highly if you digging that by hand. A guy I use would do that as an 'on the way home' job.
  6. Dollies Forklift? Glass suckers if unglazed
  7. That armstead is good then at 5 quid. Read the reviews
  8. How much is this dulux? The armstead gets better reviews and is about 50 quid for 10l
  9. Used 15mm on latest place ceilings. Defintley flexes less on the 600 centres but I always used 12.5 with noggins before and never had a problem. Horses for courses
  10. Allow for tile height you can always make a small ramp internally out of some 4x1 to please building control if you go lvt. Don't want it to tight anyway nice to have a matt behind door
  11. I read really good things about Armstead durable matt emulsion
  12. Na nothing to say you can't pave right upto the house crack on
  13. It's lasted 90 years think it will be okay
  14. I've done 18t in an afternoon by hand before
  15. What is the big concern with formaldehyde products I've never really took notice
  16. Would it be more cost effective to change to a bigger stone for 350mm ish or so with 150mm type 1 topping? Would the coverage per tonne increase so much that it is worth doing? As mentioned above I've used 6f2 before with type 1 topping under a road but with you needing virgin material 2"/3" clean could substitute the 6f2
  17. Are any of those ic's in a traffic area? I usually bed the bases on a semi dry conc mix.
  18. Just be aware if widening the cavity you need better ties and different lintels In reality I've seen 5" cavities with 4" ties and lintels but I wouldn't have it on one of mine
  19. I'm a chippy and I get told off by these rough arse wet trades for being to precise so you're in for a world of pain!
  20. Just google nulok BBA cert or something similar see what it throws up
  21. Your brickies will not be that accurate you're overthinking it. Just stretch the cavity width to max whatever your cavity lintels allow.
  22. Are they attic or fink trusses? If attic I'd go with crane
  23. Fill the concrete up to around the bottom of the gravel board. Had a guy dig the holes for mine the other week were works of art no more than 8" diameter circle
  24. I've got the osma level invert ones but restricted to max 600mm depth. I'd not worry about going into the side of a regular chamber providing you have sufficient and regular flow coming through the main level section behind the chamber. I've never had to go back to a system to deal with blockages from this so don't think its that much of a concern
×
×
  • Create New...