Oz07

Basically someone is taking an anal view of the regs here. If you can reduce the width by 50 odd mil to push the bottom newel back into the high ceiling zone and it passes then it should be fine the full width. Nobody is walking on the very inside of a kite winder any way. As said above chat with your bco. Explain you'd prefer a full width staircase as more comfortable but are happy to reduce width to comply if that's what they require. Put ball in their court.

How is 1.2 no more than 2? On 12m of wall you would use 13 as opposed to 7 at 2m

1.2 centres I thought it was usually no more than 2m. Usually you come down 4 blocks or so. 900/1200 straps

So kite winder at bottom 4,3,2 tread and is it just tread one which is protruding into the 2440 ceiling? I think you're okay

Due to space? These aren't usually any shorter unless you're putting the cistern into a void which is already there

Kite winder?

I've never paid any more than 3 figures for my certs. I do have a good architect though. The bill is normally split into thirds. Planning, build regs, sign off.

Major benefit which you are forgetting @SuperJohnG is elimination of joints within the structure of the building. Ever piece of pipe is a full run with only joints at either end. Also whatever the technical term is but I can flush loo and it doesn't affect shower when running.

Cml cert make sure architect is riba and with ARB

I meant op. Just so they're on the ball that there can be extras

Doesn't sound bad. What about extras insulation, trays, lintels etc? Last lot I used even charge a quid a metre to roll out dpc! I offered to do it but can't pick and choose so just stuck to making tea!

I think a mid sized merchant in house make them. Sure it said avon timber. They're redwood too (Like harlows timber ones) and preprimed

I though condensation in the supply side ducts was unlikely? I believe op is referring to the intake/exhaust pipes

I think @epsilonGreedy will actually ask every question to do with fitting this roof as he does it effectively putting me out of a job...Should of been a plasterer...

Wrong thread @joe90 that was his other one about lateral restraint straps

Been using good ones on site I'm on atm they are trenched but for a shouldered half lap so cutting the ears of flush and lining still keeps it's integrity

This was mine. Intake was a bit long but needed 2m separation and wanted them on sane elevation.

I never got that advice with my bpc tile vent installation. I just got told continuous fall on duct back to unit. Surely if the unit has a condensate drain it will do the job there? My ducts are wrapped in the foil insulation, foil taped at joins of insulation and covered with loft insulation until they reach the tile vent.. @Declan52 how did the condensation make it's way into supply side ducting?

https://www.howdens.com/joinery/door-fittings/door-linings/howdens-softwood-untrenched-door-lining-obj-sku-family-dfr2015

Trenched for 926 and I would assume 826 on reverse side. Otherwise you would allow chippie extra .5hr to trench. Realistically 10 mins. They also do in fd30 I think op will be struggling at 200 per set depending on finish on doors. Magnet doing the oak belieze atm for 50 quid unfinished in imperial. If you allow 100 for door and lining, 20 for ironmongery that's leaves you with 80 for labour to fit, buy stain/oil then apply

Howdens or magnet don't sell metric linings? I can't believe that sure I've bought them before.

Don't bother strapping till you've dobe the roof. Your bound to put the straps in the way otherwise

Lightweight (not aircrete) blocks you will fire screws straight in without plugs. Or nail as has been said.

Are you still blogging @Red Kite?

Taking this to next level plumber on the job I'm currently on ditches top seal and replaces bottom one for a pte? Plastic one. Also silicone both sides. Guy I normal use ditches top one and uses silicone both sides