Oz07

Think I pay 1.50 per m2 labour for brickies to insulate

Underground?!

Ah maybe different in soffit then

https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiF1riC5-3pAhW3gFAGHcI4AY4YABAKGgJkZw&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASE-RoovGd9vh9fOC8P_E-HYwFToY&sig=AOD64_2GHVC2Je1hXKPe9s6WbhEk0P3yMg&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwiYkrGC5-3pAhXXh1wKHRx1DSkQwg96BAgKEBw&adurl= Went for brushed finish

I think mine are ip65 Just went for the low profile leds

Poses the question does it matter if an airated block cracks below ground once back filled?!

On another note most trench blocks are aircrete. I think they're supposed to perform better underground than something dense and brittle. Think @PeterW knows a bit...?

I think most common reason aircrete cracks is too strong compo. Think you're talking like 6:1 for aircrete

Airated can be a pain for cracking. Lightweight concrete less so

The only way it's possible to avoid is to rip back of base units down or misalign them as like Joe90 pic if you have a worktop overhang on your doors. Peters photo has the worktop flush with the doors which looks good but might not if the doors didn't have the thin handleless edge at top.

That always happens. Worktops 610 end panels 600 ish. Usually I edge that end

Glass suckers, 2 of. Cheap enough on amazon

Mine have a switch in you can switch between cool or warm

I had the leds on latest place. I find they don't seem as bright but I had them because were a lower build height and I only had a 120mm ish void. Also used them in soffit because rated as you say. 12.50 ish a pop, brushed finish if I remember right

Garden envy

I think that's for the collated screws!

That's not a hoist as such surely it's just stopping spread. If 75mm wide I wouldn't worry about 20mm

He is the man in the know with regards boarding here but I reckon @nod has read that wrong and assumed your 7.50 labour price is per board not per m2.

The board price doesn't look great to me. The Labour price if just for fixing looks dear too. Over 20 quid a sheet for tacking

I don't think you do it by elevation. I've seen a north facing wall in 60s bungalow which has a thermal expansion crack thru a window.

Ideally you'd want any connection downstream of a loo to be in top third of pipe. I'm sure it would be ok where it is but just use judgement

I meant is there a loo further upstream of the connection we are talking about? If not I'd say your fine as the reason you put connection in top third is to stop stuff getting caught

Bog

Have u got a big upstream of that connection?

I buy studding a week of so before then sort it when I use. Bananas get used for noggins and bows get used for top or some plate or against walls where I can straighten. I do think treated is worse for changing