Oz07

What is the score if you have a long window and the ice isn't perfectly flat or the opening is out of level. Does packing the cill create a lot of small point loads or is it a case of once it's foamed below it's back to being once larger load across a bigger area?!

I'm not saying eliminate openers, just don't go OTT like I did. Brain was still speccing windows as if it would be a normal house without ventilation

Just a thought I've decided to post in case anyone comes across while deciding what to do with their windows... In hindsight I would have specced a lot less openers on the windows and had a lot more direct glazed. It's my first house with this ventilation system so I was a bit green. It would have saved cost and sometimes improved aesthetics. Apart from satisfying MOE requirements I'd cut down to the minimum openers and save some money. You literally never use them. I've got 2 openers either side of my french doors with a transome halfway through the frame. These could have been full length direct glazed would of looked better and been cheaper. In the lounge i've got 6 opening casements, ridiculous, i'd of just had 2 in the windows on opposite walls. The windows which were split into 3 sections being 1.8m wide i've had 2 openers and 1 fixed pane in centre, I would have reversed this in hindsight. Just a tip in case anyone is as green as I was and it doesn't occur to them to save some money!

Digressing but as @CC45 says above I think it's better to fit loose and foam. It's what I always do now. A lot quicker because they can be cut to a common size and the foam reduces any of the wind washing effect bypassing the insulation. To me it seems a much better method but I wouldn't profess to be a boffin with regards to the science of insulation.

I don't trap where connecting to S/W

Gully with grid to take waste or rainwater. Can be taken apart without downpipes being in the way. I suppose you should shoe it and not cut out the grid but has a leaf guard at the top. Sits on fins which keep the water flowing

I'm only guessing thats the reason. Normal taps seem to have 10mm flexi's this looks to be on something like 7mm. I get 1.9 bar and with a 32mm supply around 20L per min flow rate from garden tap so my pressure/flow isn't particularly bad, but likewise if you have something a lot better the tap could perform better?

I have a pull out Grohe kitchen tap and was disappointed with the flow rate. I'm not in the best pressure area and had a bigger supply (32mm) to address this. I think the problem is there are 4 pipes within the 35mm body of this tap hence the bores are very small. If I chose again I would not bother with a pull out tap. Fair play to Wayfair they gave me a 100% refund and let me keep the tap, outstanding service if you ask me.

I've gone 2.55m in latest place (bottom trusses 2.7m, suspended ceiling below this with a 150mm gap in the middle. Just what worked best with the buildup I went with but the extra 6" does feel better than 2.4m. I wouldn't let the wastage on a 2.7m plasterboard dictate my ceiling height as it's pennies in the grand scheme.

Also don't cut this trade to the bone if they quote you fair rate then pay it. Nothing worse than crap walls after its plastered because the guy is unhappy and/or having to get loads on to make it pay.

Most day rate plasterers round here do 2 sets a day. Usual knocking off by 3 latest. Not to say they don't graft though

Another here who thinks the clipped corners look good. My grandad was from the generation where plumbers did lead work. Said you had to move planks around the scaffold as you went along there were rarely enough to deck out the whole lift on small builder jobs. Also the same generation where plumbers did glazing. He used to get annoyed when one of his double glazed panes misted and I had to order him one and change. Said in his day nothing ever went wrong with a piece of glass he changed unless a kid kicked a football through it!

Skipped through comments so sorry if already been covered. Solid means less safety features as arms can't be guillotined or so I've been told. I've had prices for sliding gate just over 4m, 1.4m High and range from 2750 to 7k. Galvanised and powder coated incl motor and installation but excludes intercom system (been told to budget 300 extra)

When I have trenches in any sub base (for instance when I know a drain run is going through and I don't want to re dig the compacted stone) I usually chuck a couple of planks in them and run the wacker over. Save the problem you have of being too delicate with the wacker around where these runs are. Take the planks out after, trim out with a shovel then do what you've gotta do.

*bco

10mm is fine but as above did you actually put 4" down? If not and your bro literally thinks 10mm is too much blinding i'd be more concerned with his knowledge

whatever one the wholesalers sell. I literally just email them with quantities of smoke and heat, it gets delivered, sparky fits it. Im not very fussy!

@Russell griffiths bodes well for that Illbruck airtight foam, put all my windows in with this.

Yes i've just found a document in this thread also good old @Jeremy Harris

Also @Bitpipe @PeterStarck @ProDave did you guys use that document?

Sorry to be lazy. I have tried searching for 'MVHR cert' and 'MVHR commission' but not easy to find. I'm looking for the document/template others have used to self certify/commission their MVHR. From memory @joe90 used it? I do remember commenting on a thread where I am sure the document was uploaded but buggered if I can find it. Scored 1.2 on the Air test today with the fan blower door. Not sure what this equates to in passive ACH terms but it's the best score i've ever hit.

160 won't get you a self employed and insured plumber for the day round here if be budgeting 250+ with the bits

As above

What are you running through the hole a public sewer?!

Good tip above I do that or when going to rain