Oz07

Great post

Any good weigh ins on the scrap? Price gone south hasn't it

Your assuming he's using a small section truss. Yeh deeper fascia than rafter legs cut plumb. Sprags fixed flush with bottom of fascia back ontop of brickwork. Don't forget though with concrete tiles your fascia wants to be between 25-50 proud at top rather, around 100 mm plumb cut on rather then a 50mm overhangs below with 2" sprags

Why does the overhang and pitch dictate the fascia depth?! I've got a 200mm soffit and 225mm fascia on mine with a 35 deg pitch.

Probably better your way but depends of door is hinged of fixed glass panel. If it is hinged off it then probably best directly on tray as more friction.

I did use some illbruck adhesive foam but it was too good. I think if anyone ever has to remove skirtings they will be taking plaster off. Just look for any bog standard stuff

I roller another undercoat on the face on my own jobs. Some people here were saying they paint the bottom edge to stop it blowing but I cba with that. I use a 2nd fix pin gun and pink or grip fill but have just switched to foam instead. I think the foam is a better fixing and it's cheaper. On the arcs I use mitre bond, build them all up in one room. Then flip them over, bead of pva where they hit the frame then dobs of grippo every 12" or so. I wouldn't use ovals if I were you they will be too rough knocking in by hand.

I see screwys or toolstation doing an overpaintable siliconised caulk. No idea what it's like but sounds good for something like that

If she jumps over a Harris fence in her heels I'll pay up lol

I've kept my latest place gates and front Windows obscured. That horrible council woman loves to pounce on a half finished home

Sure it will be fine.

Just been for some fittings myself

Keep the dear stuff thin. 2" sounds good

Easier to post this than find the thread from anonymousbosch This is sleeved in 6" pipe but should be 8" if by the book. Stuff the gap with insulation and stainless steel scouring balls

Have a play with fitting but I think off the vertical i'd perhaps pop a 45deg y juntion with another 45 getting you to 90 for your connection. Then I'd take the vertical up and try to put some kind of lid on it at surface level(I know most rodding points are suited for 45deg on the surface). Then the manhole 3m away as you say. I reality if it worked before fine it will work again but would be nice to have that vertical access for if anything ever went wrong

He had some good knowledge, shame

Is it not that the definition of sustainability is different for planners and builders. Builders think construction terms, planners think of village/schools/employment? What happened to @Sensus

Were you in a conservation area?

Just getting it changed from class q to full. Any tips? Might be interesting for future reference.

Membrane is taped and linked down to parge coated blockwork. Only 3 penetrations in membrane all taped around

Here's my hybrid. After much procrastination I went with the membrane as opposed to OSB. created a void below trusses for services.

How did you manage the planning

I've never seen ceilings done first. Round here the boarders get paid low 3 quid per m2 whether it's one massive area or small rooms. Not saying it can't or isn't done but I always fix top plate to the underside trusses

Like @wozza I've not had the problem others discuss. My plumber always likes to oversize the boiler though. I thought showers can go down to about 6l per min now? Also in new place with the manifold setup I find the water pressure drop is much less of an issue. Ie if flush loo while running basin it is barely noticeable whereas in houses where they share one 15mm supply the tap often slows.

I don't think 900 is that bad. Its 2 days in a workshop with the finishing and lacquer. Regardless of materials that's got to be 500 of anyone's dough with the overheads and labour. Add in material and profit. I doubt you're going to find it for half the price.