Oz07

Have you had any heat input into your house yet @joe90? Wood burner etc ? I've been using heating a couple of hours each night and it doesn't feel as warm in the morning as my last place I built to similar spec. This one has mvhr I can only assume it's not as efficient at retaining heat as advertised or is running too fast. Tbf the thermostat hasn't shown below 16/17 but I've set it to click off at 19 for the heating.

I reckon cost. The advantage of those screeds is their strength to thickness. I reckon once you get to 80mm your in self compacting concrete territory. For what it's worth how sure is everyone the bounce is in the screed to insulation movement? I would guess it's the actual suspended concrete floor beams which have a bit of bounce.

Concrete around 900 on your figures at 75mm depth (minimum), labour and pump budget 600 so 1500 plus VAT there's not much in it. I prefer the concrete as can get down before watertight and a nice finish floor to work from. Although it depends where in the world you are @Russell griffiths struggled to get reasonable prices locally. I believe @PeterStarck 's second bit at the cherry was self compacting although his contractor might have paid for it?!

Concrete pump will add about 300 depending on where you are and how much. You will also have to pay someone to lay they rake, tamp and spray it off not the most difficult but still worth paying someone who works with it regularly. If you allowed a day at 200/250. There are companies that pump and lay (and will quote your supply) also keeping it all in house.

@Moonshine what make a you think that new build was a screed. I suspect it was a self compacting concrete like I use on mine. It's pretty bomb proof, no serious laitence but not the cheapest getting on for about 150 a m3 nowadays

Mdf won't warp if fitted properly. Suspect Dave means proper timber

Was it worth those barriers!? Looking good apart from that

Think people have done it with soil pipe and vent caps or some other fitting before

I don't think deducting the original blokes invoice will wind up the OP, more likely the other way round. I doubt he will have the front to challenge OP. For one he has let him down for two the work wasn't right

Wouldn't be the first job been first fixed without Windows. Even timber partitions. You put sole plate on dpc any way. Couldn't you nail up some transparent polythene over the holes

If you pay attention the green beacon keeps flashing when some operators get out. They know the tricks

Leave howdens 4 weeks, they will call you, tell them your ready to place order half price and your not playing their silly games of sending competitor quotes. They will drop their price, at this point I usually still go with someone else just to discourage this business model.

Have trusses ever been at 400 centres or are you referring to rafters? I bet it's more common than you think people using 19mm batten with 60p centre spacing which would likely cause a roof to look bumpy.

I find 22mm about right. Even that can catch with thick underlay

Wasn't specifically talking about that case, just in general. I've never really met a window fitter who takes pride in their work. Seems to be a rough trade then you get the firms expert come to fix up or adjust any issues.

@craig is there not an industry standard fitting guide a bit like the one BWF produces for stairs. It's very generic but covers most essentials. I'm sure most carpenters would be capable of fitting these Windows if they knew the exact specifications/details. Always seems to be a lottery with window fitters whereas if the customer has a chippie they trust I'm sure they could manage. Neck I even think @Russell griffiths even fitted his own And he's a rough arse tree surgeon.

Just do your roof if you want a chance of passing ?

I got offered £12 m2 as a goodwill gesture for replacing some faulty click LVT. I'd guess more though I bet people want 30 quid

I don't understand the science but awhile ago there was a discussion with regards pozis As i remember if built in to blockwork the deflection was less compared to on hangers/top chord on top of ledger. It was to do with the end of the joist not being tight up to the ledger and this gives it room to move. I think built in the friction of the blockwork stops this. Can anyone link/remember the discussion?

My CU has surge protection. Sparky said it's not quite a reg yet but he thinks it will be in his next update

Didn't we discuss previously deflection is more likely with a ledger because they're not a tight fit on the ends and this increases bounce? One negative to that... I'd think your ok putting a ledger on once 2 or 3 courses above where you need to be, at worst built overhand from the scaffold outside the building

@Simplysimons original comment was meant as in - build the frame from i joists I think. Wasn't exclusively referring to floors

Not doubting @Mr Punters advice but just saying what I'd do

I'd stick with standard 2100 internals purely for simplicity. I never look at these and think they're too low

Usually head heights should align all around btw