Oz07

When I have trenches in any sub base (for instance when I know a drain run is going through and I don't want to re dig the compacted stone) I usually chuck a couple of planks in them and run the wacker over. Save the problem you have of being too delicate with the wacker around where these runs are. Take the planks out after, trim out with a shovel then do what you've gotta do.

*bco

10mm is fine but as above did you actually put 4" down? If not and your bro literally thinks 10mm is too much blinding i'd be more concerned with his knowledge

whatever one the wholesalers sell. I literally just email them with quantities of smoke and heat, it gets delivered, sparky fits it. Im not very fussy!

@Russell griffiths bodes well for that Illbruck airtight foam, put all my windows in with this.

Yes i've just found a document in this thread also good old @Jeremy Harris

Also @Bitpipe @PeterStarck @ProDave did you guys use that document?

Sorry to be lazy. I have tried searching for 'MVHR cert' and 'MVHR commission' but not easy to find. I'm looking for the document/template others have used to self certify/commission their MVHR. From memory @joe90 used it? I do remember commenting on a thread where I am sure the document was uploaded but buggered if I can find it. Scored 1.2 on the Air test today with the fan blower door. Not sure what this equates to in passive ACH terms but it's the best score i've ever hit.

160 won't get you a self employed and insured plumber for the day round here if be budgeting 250+ with the bits

As above

What are you running through the hole a public sewer?!

Good tip above I do that or when going to rain

No 250 a day on day work, basically anything bitty, overhand or where scaffold can't be loaded properly and it's hand to mouth. Where the lines can go up on a 50 long brick elevation it's pricework. In other words they are having their cake and eating it too

Yes labour only @MortarThePoint measured through openings. It's crazy they're coming our with over a grand a week with a bucket of tools and a few levels...

Better than other rashes!

My old man in Manchester @nod 250 on day work and 650 thou on brickwork. Was on for bardsleys before Xmas they went bust walked into another start pretty much straight away.

Great post

Any good weigh ins on the scrap? Price gone south hasn't it

Your assuming he's using a small section truss. Yeh deeper fascia than rafter legs cut plumb. Sprags fixed flush with bottom of fascia back ontop of brickwork. Don't forget though with concrete tiles your fascia wants to be between 25-50 proud at top rather, around 100 mm plumb cut on rather then a 50mm overhangs below with 2" sprags

Why does the overhang and pitch dictate the fascia depth?! I've got a 200mm soffit and 225mm fascia on mine with a 35 deg pitch.

Probably better your way but depends of door is hinged of fixed glass panel. If it is hinged off it then probably best directly on tray as more friction.

I did use some illbruck adhesive foam but it was too good. I think if anyone ever has to remove skirtings they will be taking plaster off. Just look for any bog standard stuff

I roller another undercoat on the face on my own jobs. Some people here were saying they paint the bottom edge to stop it blowing but I cba with that. I use a 2nd fix pin gun and pink or grip fill but have just switched to foam instead. I think the foam is a better fixing and it's cheaper. On the arcs I use mitre bond, build them all up in one room. Then flip them over, bead of pva where they hit the frame then dobs of grippo every 12" or so. I wouldn't use ovals if I were you they will be too rough knocking in by hand.

I see screwys or toolstation doing an overpaintable siliconised caulk. No idea what it's like but sounds good for something like that

If she jumps over a Harris fence in her heels I'll pay up lol