Oz07

If she jumps over a Harris fence in her heels I'll pay up lol

I've kept my latest place gates and front Windows obscured. That horrible council woman loves to pounce on a half finished home

Sure it will be fine.

Just been for some fittings myself

Keep the dear stuff thin. 2" sounds good

Easier to post this than find the thread from anonymousbosch This is sleeved in 6" pipe but should be 8" if by the book. Stuff the gap with insulation and stainless steel scouring balls

Have a play with fitting but I think off the vertical i'd perhaps pop a 45deg y juntion with another 45 getting you to 90 for your connection. Then I'd take the vertical up and try to put some kind of lid on it at surface level(I know most rodding points are suited for 45deg on the surface). Then the manhole 3m away as you say. I reality if it worked before fine it will work again but would be nice to have that vertical access for if anything ever went wrong

He had some good knowledge, shame

Is it not that the definition of sustainability is different for planners and builders. Builders think construction terms, planners think of village/schools/employment? What happened to @Sensus

Were you in a conservation area?

Just getting it changed from class q to full. Any tips? Might be interesting for future reference.

Membrane is taped and linked down to parge coated blockwork. Only 3 penetrations in membrane all taped around

Here's my hybrid. After much procrastination I went with the membrane as opposed to OSB. created a void below trusses for services.

How did you manage the planning

I've never seen ceilings done first. Round here the boarders get paid low 3 quid per m2 whether it's one massive area or small rooms. Not saying it can't or isn't done but I always fix top plate to the underside trusses

Like @wozza I've not had the problem others discuss. My plumber always likes to oversize the boiler though. I thought showers can go down to about 6l per min now? Also in new place with the manifold setup I find the water pressure drop is much less of an issue. Ie if flush loo while running basin it is barely noticeable whereas in houses where they share one 15mm supply the tap often slows.

I don't think 900 is that bad. Its 2 days in a workshop with the finishing and lacquer. Regardless of materials that's got to be 500 of anyone's dough with the overheads and labour. Add in material and profit. I doubt you're going to find it for half the price.

Depends think fd30 or 20 is pretty easy to achieve which is why they are using crittal glass

Mine too but probably only used 15 times max

That's the problem with these. I think the clue is in the name. Quality seems fine but missing or damaged and your looking at a week minimum delay. Ok for someone doing it themselves not ok for a professional with dates to manage.

I had the kanuf 34 blown in before and had to buy quite a few batts to stuff all round the top of the cav. Don't know if it was nessecary

How did u do the fingers again

Yeh I've got a few bungs 6" and 4" always like to test drainage to 1m. To be fair though I've never had a bad pvc underground joint. Sometimes I've had an air bubble/lock in a temporary fitting or something which can play tricks on you

If you can afford to loose a couple of inch a metal jumbo stud infront of the existing wall would be cleanest and easiest. Not sure how it performs db wise but I'd imagine well as have seen it on plant of building conversions to flats. @nod?

Is anyone going to specifically say if they are bad underground or not. Most trench blocks I've seem are aerated and the party line is that the air pockets absorb the freeze thaw cycle better