Oz07

Everything is fine if done proper. One unique problem I can think of is sole plate condensation. You will have to get a risk thingy done to make sure the risk is low. Also with regards to membranes and water or condensation ingress. It could be a major structural problem with tf. Less so with masonry.

Godfather post

The exceptions in link @Dan F posted allow y junction where there is a rodding point outside so I think you would be ok with either 4 or 5

Looks better now mate.

Try it and see

I prefer blade to well clear the bottom of workpiece on a couple of battens find it gives a better cut.

You can't really cut too slow. I'm guessing your using the right blade for the job if getting nice cuts. I'd be wanting more than a kitchen per blade. 're sharpening less than a tenner so buy a good brand.

my god I could have forgiven it if the cill was tight to the flashing but why not just grind through the soldiers 3" up to give it a proper upstand?!

What's your ceiling level detail just plasterboard under trusses? You could possibly address this here

I used a mastic to glue membrane to the blocks. Wouldn't replace tape in all situations though

@nod and his great camera again. What is it?

Regarding no.4 how long has it been since you've fitted a toilet. While I agree with the sentiment of the post I may have a revelation for you...

To put in perspective I have seem some absolute garbage on the site I'm on atm. I don't think you'd see that roof detail there because they're drawn out pretty well being a volume builder, however the workmanship is dog poo. Perhaps the only reason I get a start there! Had to go in an occupied house last week, get in loft cut through fixings top of stud wall, cut out plasterboard below and plumb up the wall. Was an inch out of plumb!

@ProDave I think it's less to do with the structure of the building more like the frane of window expanding and contracting. It's bound to happen having two extremes of temperature either side

I did it on all Windows as @joe90 advised how he did in porch. Looks good when it's done bit more of a clean line than skim straight upto frame.

Look at the bond up sides of garage door both sides

To be fair there could be a window cill at that porch lead flashing level. It's a poxy 3" upstand and could be the only reason someone would leave that transition looking like that...and there are still better ways of dealing with it. OP do I win? Is there a window to the right of that picture above the porch?

Mr punter c'mon wouldn't you ever try to sell a house with that porch to garage roof transition? Screams amateur builder to me.

God they are heavy. Ignore me lol wouldn't want to handball them

Trestles (to store trusses)

Just get 2 treaties and put where the wall plate would be

Surely you wouldn't need a crane just for garage trusses If the rest is ready to go

That porch roof to garage is disgusting. Doesn't look a cheap house either. End bit of guttering will fill up, drop futher and leak. The fascia is not high enough all around on that place as can be seen by bottom course of tiles. Wants some over fascia vents nailing on above the fascias if not there already to give it the kick. Hard to say from here but if the bits you can see look like this imagine what the bits you can't see look like.

Table saws are good. I prefer to cut loose and foam in with a few nails halfway into the rafters

glutton for punishment