Oz07

No chance of warm roof unfortunately. The wall plate is higher than usual so yes I have room to bring ceiling level up to around 200mm below trusses and still have 8ft ceilings

What's your ltv? Hope it's not high

Makes sense doesn't it. Partial split level works on sloping ground but id prefer to be building upwards all off the same base.

The footprint is tight but am trying to do my best with it. Were talking 900sq ft here and ideally wanting 2 bed, study, 1 bath and separate wc so space at a premium. May be able to fit a tight ish plant cupboard in 1200x750 mm ish if can get boiler and mhvr in here? I did Google and seems to be a bit of can of worms putting mhvr in cold roof but don't mind taking time with detailing if it can be done

When mixing remember it's easier to add more water. Don't be tempted to put too much in until mixed through. Surprising how little water can take a mix from semi dry to wet

Is your mvhr unit in cold space or heated envelope? Been looking into it lately

Whats the options for dealing with airtightness to MVHR levels when using a fink trussed roof? Single storey property. The loft space wont be useable and will perhaps have 1 access point for any maintenance required. Building is blockwork so trusses will sit on top of a wall plate. MVHR unit to be in 'loft' area My initial thoughts are from trusses down, Smart ply or some kind of airtight ply. Tape around perimeter over wall plate onto blockwork. Parge coat on blockwork to overlap tape. 2 layers of 2x2 conterbattened below ply on trusses to create a void for services so electrical/plumbing doesn't enter loft space and can achieve airtightness at first fix stage without having to worry about subbies penetrating. Tape around loft access point. Tape/seal around MVHR points. Would airtighness board be recommended or is a membrane over the trusses/thin standard ply/osb a better way to go? Are decent air tight loft access points readily available off the peg or is it a case of knocking own up with copies amount of draught excluder as per normal? Would it be easy to seal around MVHR plenium penetrations through air tight? Cheers

I get half a bag cement into a belle drum. Put it in your chosen bucket see where it comes to. Ie top or 3" down etc then just fill bucket up that high with sand. You develop technique of throwing the sand into the drum so not actually that close. As opposed to tipping it in.

Don't think so. Usually 50mm vent gap for condensation. Boffins will know more than me

Do you mean 8.9 m or are you feeding the 5000?!

Can we have a summary of why the property was classed as non resi @Ferdinand

It's not the rates surely it's to do with HRAD on additional properties. I guess it's not applicable to non resi purchases?

Yes why not?

I think you could build all in f2 without dpc. Why not put some solid engineerings in if your worried about breaking bond with plastic dpc. At least this would stop rising salts/efflouressense in future

Is smart ply the airtight variety? Are joints glued or t&g or all taped?

Looks smart

@JSHarris Isn't there a rule that you also had to abide by for your bidet style spray head?

Looks the dogs

75 is fine as you're on top of a suspended floor

Doesn't load up for me. You want people to put positive comments on the application? From hundreds of miles away?

@ProDave joiner not a profession wash you mouth out! Been dealing with howdens for 10 years. Think they've lost their way recently. New concept branches and flashy displays all pushing up prices. Just took delivery of a diy kitchen impressed with quality. Also howdens will offer to match them on price but I told them to do one. 50% higher for a start they should be 50% lower being trade only!

You would never cut it out neat

Have you been told 75mm conc ok? Thought 80 was min for structural floor or are you on top of b&b? I've shuttered out before but not with a concfibished floor. I'd try to set a box up level with top ffl so they can polish over then set tray and thinner slab in afterwards if want flush. May need rods?

Come do my next house @temp

Well did the bungalow throughout. It is so much quicker than traditional way. Didn't have to mask down either as windows still yet to be changed. I think I should have diluted a bit more as while the cup to test viscosity was provided it just said 100 DIN/sec. Whats that mean? However I can probably go round with the pole sander over everything. It will have still saved me time even after that. I set plank runs up in rooms to do ceilings and high level walls. All in all an OK piece of kit for the money, saved me some time BUT would likely pay a professional in future if the money was right (£250 for standard ish sized house I hear, mist coat all around plus extra coat on ceilings)