dpmiller

isn't there a temperature dial on the boiler beside the overtemp reset cap?

Ok I've just delved into the hidden menu and can confirm that the DHW curve is minimal, running from 50 @ 0c ambient to 45 @ 30c ambient.

Do you have v6.6 of the manual? It has a bit more info on the slopes.

... to explain a wee bit further, these units can be configured to control *either* on flow OR return temp depending on application, as well as having a tank thermistor. Control on flow seems to give a hard limit, whereas control on return gives a softer response with more of a DeltaT (suits me better) While the controller doesn't have any in-house temp sensing- relying on dry stat contacts- it does have the full gamut of weather compensation trickery as well as low noise (fan control) modes and configurable defrost, pump speed, etc etc. It also has an inbuilt 7-day programmer for flow temps.

It's the Cool Energy with the Carel controller. Edit: presume it to do with how the inverter winds up and down to reduce overshoot but it's not explained in the book of words.

Good Q. I haven't fiddled with those tbh, rather using the temp difference and stop temp difference (inverter overshoot) to allow the system to ramp down a bit more smoothly. In the installer menu the pump speed is configurable too, if you want to try altering the DeltaT outside that in U08- do you see the pump speed changing as the inverter throttles down?

how do you know it's "locking out" and how are you re-setting it?

might be worth sticking a ferrite or two on the link wire

You'll need a chat with a SE about the truss mods. Btdt...

that would involve clambering up ladders etc. Personally I'd be more worried about the amount of entrained water in the delivery. It's amazing how much you can bulk out kero with...

given the flow rate splashback may well be an issue. I'd get a stick myself...

as in a flow meter rather than a contents gauge? Both are possible, but how will the oilman connect his dispense head leak-free to a flow meter?

did it escape BC inspection too then?

is an "attached" garage not a separate space tho, like a lean-to? Was it converted to a "study" before or after completion?

It's a hermetically-sealed compressor. Whilst the heater might indeed be inside the enclosure you might look on the underside of the black housing for a stick-on silicone pad heater with a couple of wires coming off it too.

you'll need a good electrician then.

For a fridge engineer, yes.

Do you have a circuit diagram to show us?

We Don't Know.

Ask if either offer adjustment for future wear.

Sounds like the compressor is faulty.

So a big single phase compressor like that will come in with a good clunk (same but bigger/louder as your fridge in the house). You'll certainly feel it with you hand on the compressor (which will be warm if running or trying to run) and might even *see* it shudder momentarily.

volume producers don't want airtight tho, as this forces extra expense on the ventilation side

As Dave says it could be heating on a resistance heater so you'll need to check carefully for clunks and hums from the compressor

Is there a soft-start device? Have you any way of testing the capacitors? (top right of first piccy) Try seeing where that orange wire on the relay socket goes to..