dpmiller

define "eye-watering" please

Yes indeed, just a wee notch.

this kinda thing, just a foam strip with an adhesive base https://www.amazon.co.uk/Screed-Dehnfuge-Dehnfugenprofil-Self-Adhesive-Base/dp/B00SYVO71A but they were all cut down to be about 3/4 of the screed thickness. Screed can flow over during the install and then it leaves a weak zone for any movement.

Our screeders put a submerged foam joint at every doorway.

@Conor and don't forget the "and can/will deliver to NI"... I rang round a load of manufacturers during the summer and many of them wouldn't even consider *quoting* til about Easter. Who did you get the price from?

I have a Solido Smart, it has the air pump inside a sealed housing inside the neck of the tank (under a double-skinned lid) A hose is fed in from a remotely-mounted inlet, which in our case is beside a hedge and unnoticeable. It's an SBR system so the pump doesn't run all the time anyway, but the only time any sound is noticeable is during the pumpout phase and it's more of a splashing/bubbling sound. Highly recommended.

Right, so you've no supply and the pipe is going towards where the supply will come from. What you have here is a boundary box, and someone will be installing another at teh end of your 200m pipe... Your 200m pipe will take quite a few minutes to fill. And the plug at the other end of the toby will unscrew.

the only water "source" that should be connected should be the mains supply at the blue valve end of the Toby. The connections in and out of the Toby are likely to be in blue MDPE, and the fittings on each end of the toby- deep underground- are generally 3/4"bsp IIRC

Looks very Peltier?

Mains water comes in at the tap end, the supply to the property connects at the other end, and whether a meter is fitted is irrelevant. Understand also there is a checkvalve inside to stop backflow. If you're unsure about the connection status you could try undoing the meter cap and opening the valve, to check for an early shower...

Play to win, Jimbo ?

@ProDave I dunno, but on this one the glass sits down onto the housing @Onoff 10x6m give or take. ?

Has all this time passed since I updated last? Wow. The plasterers were back, and we have now only the two small bedrooms and the entrance hallway left to do. Utility is habitable Ensuite near complete bar some tiles round the window, The other two bathrooms are useable but not quite as complete Cooker hood in, and subsequently a couple of units thrown into the kitchen too, just temporary mind. The hood was a mare to install, it's a heavy old bus and not being able to lift by the glass made it "awkward". Impressive airflow from it however so I'm chuffed on the whole. I'm hoping to test it at Christmas as we would like to have the festive meal down here. But that may or not happen as I'm at the whim of hauliers (yay brexit!) getting my range cooker over here in a timely fashion and in one piece... And yesterday got the slab poured for the forthcoming shed. Now, energy numbers stuff. Sure I've has the ASHP in since Feb or so but it's only in the past six weeks or so that it's been working for it's money. UFH is currently a big single zone with the control stat in the entrance hall at the mo, the rads in the two big bedrooms upstairs together with the towel rails, have their own control. Heating flow is 32C, DHW tank is 48C, and the tank sensor is about 3/5 down the 270l tank According to Jeremy's heat loss calculator monthly heat energy requirement is somewhere between 1250 and 1700kWh depending on the ambient temp. Total metered electric consumption for the past 30days is 600kWh Daily consumption by the ASHP according to the meter I've put on the supply is between 17 and 25kWh, the average appears to be about 22kWh which matches pretty well. So I'm pretty happy with that. COP looks acceptable, but I might be able to improve matters slightly still by altering the flow at the UFH mixer as the delta across the ASHP tends to be a wee bit higher than I want and I can happily slow down the floor response a bit.

are the issues humidity-related maybe?

same temp to all three floors?

if the rubber seal in that fitting sits in a recess, it may not seal to your dodgy looking waste.

does it need true isolation or just switching, and how often? An SSR might fit the bill.

the grille at the back I'm pretty sure is only chromed, mine went a bit brown but when rubbed off it settled down. The corner, it might be worth giving it a rub with scotchbrite just in case the wrong wheel was used when buffing it?

any chance the top bars are fake, with no flow through? also, have you bled *both* sides at the top?

Real men braze their gas pipelines...

how tall are the walls?

if their line was suddenly faulty and needed replaced????

not that any developer would care, but how much extra insulation thickness do you need to counteract the cold air under the suspended floor?

I've seen those Wylex RCDs do odd things before.

night mode is likely to mean reduced output rather then any less efficiency.