dpmiller

Would this narrow your driveway? The sightline's not great as it it now, no chance it would make things more awkward for you in that regard?

No, a week isn't too long. Get 'er lit.

@WillCram just check the length of the bits- is there any chance the adaptor crimps down onto the pipe as it's tightened?

a number of us seemingly have worrying similar backgrounds... Our stage lighting setup was a pretty fancy early 70s Rank board, but we lost a channel or two each year and no-one had ever tried replacing just the triacs til I was around...

Both elements are fine then.

Don't see any reason the spike can't be beside rather than under. And it really needs to be in before NIE arrive as a. your spark will probably want to test it and b. NIE will refuse to connect if Ze isn't acceptable. Sometimes one rod isn't enough...

dig it up into a pile elsewhere on the site and retain for later use?

you could try a corner bath where you've put the shower currently, and the basin farther along the long wall. A corner bath makes for an expansive deep shower tray... https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/laguna-corner-shower-bath-with-screen-panel?campaign=googlebase&pagetype=shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1ZeUBhDyARIsAOzAqQLkYDnw4MHtv6EZ_RwTgQxbrzF5g0GE7yzSuxCatyBufDe6j6DLTCsaAtW1EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

spot/ small area guns will work off a 2 or 3HP pump OK. What depth is this cement? A needle gun would be an option too...

Pricey I know, but Papst do some lovely quiet and efficient tangentials, I see these used in cooled incubators and the like https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/centrifugal-fans/2436423

if it's not a massive area, buy a small blasting gun and do it yourself. Slow and messy but doable

flick the light on for a couple of seconds as you enter, then it'll run on the overrun time as you shower. Likewise if there are nasty niffs to deal with

while PIR between the studs is theoretically better, the difficulty getting a thermally-good fit vs just shoving in rockwool makes the rockwool my preferred choice.

have you flexifeet to stand it on? Two block on flat, each end.

try a tiny smear of grease on the back of the latch.

even better!

camping fridge with a coil of hose in it...

you could get them to put a 3m2 heatpump coil in?

Are there any unusually green spots recurring in aerial images? I can't see a 500m field drain being likely somehow... So little water is involved that it's an irrelevance, frankly. Do you think SEPA are likely to survey based on your data? I'd be tempted to give them a random grid ref and carry on...

pretty sure our Smart is a 6PE? BL30 tank

If you were worried about the air supply, you could easily go up a size of duct to reduce restriction. Are they size-for-size? Solido comes in a few different tank sizes. Is the Solido you're quoted specced with pump out or alarm vs the basic one with airlift only? Is the output quality same?

@SuperJohnG I extended the air inlet hose about 6m with some buried 25mm conduit to place the snorkel in the hedgeline out of the way. Has no effect on the running of the unit, the volume of air required is quite low. With Smart C there is no separate control box, there's an LCD built into the top cover flap of the pump. Lift manhole, unscrew lid of "equipment capsule" to access. Funnily enough I lifted the lid on ours yesterday for the first time in a year or so. Couldn't hear the pump at all until I lifted the manhole cover, no odour whatsoever, and a seething mass below.

I'll go against the accepted wisdom here as I went ASHP/TS/ boiler stove. At least that's the plan, the stove is a wee bit down the things-to-spend-money-on list yet. Likely Woodfire Passiv, but I'm holding out for the option of a FHT Stove actually coming to market (or having a play at building one myself..)

Might there be an upstand on the rear of the cill?

that's one of them Spanish/ Portuguese things that doesn't work if it's cold?