dpmiller

...and remember that holes in steels need to be positioned wrt the pozijoists too so there could be a to-and-fro between the pozi designer and the SE (if they're different people) I just asked our TF guys to design in a couple of holes in each steel and had no problems routing the services from that point on.

screed can be gypsum too if you prefer

^ that's just a tripler from an old telly.

I've just been through this for my own big shed, and ended up getting some bays of used longspan which gives loads of space. 2.5m bays.

screwless faceplate, or screwless terminals?

it wouldn't take long with a masonry bit to confirm or deny your suspicions

£100 for a one-off fill of glycol vs (say) coming back to a cold *and unheatable* house after a nice skiing holiday, because you'd turned the heating off and there was sudden cold snap? No-brainer for me, and I don't even do skiing...

anybody got a note on how they're supposed to work?

filters can be a ripoff. The media is cheap- look at the average car spraybooth, the non-woven media used is about £2/ m2. But cut it into a wee piece for (say) a fume hood or even an MVHR and well...

and what's the filter and scale situation on it?

I'll offer the contrary view that a short-term imbalance won't harm anything, and cooking may well be excess heat that then causes the rest of the house to overwarm. We've two normal extract points at the "cooking" end of the kitchen area and these deal with day-to-day moisture and odours. But I also have a sizeable extractor over the cooker which can separately deal with the big heat, smell, and grease from rapid wok cooking. At other times it's sealed off by a gravity flap in the duct.

OP, why not just flush the system, replace the PHE, and carry on- for now?

^ but with inverter HPs the efficient range is very wide, infact best efficiency will be at much less than full power as you can stay out of the defrost zone for longer.

so back to the old distance to boundaries/ fire protection thingy. Have you got all the necessary facts lined up?

If you're going to mess it up shoveling stone, does it really need done *now* or would it do as-is until later (and cleaner) into the build?

yep, it's E12 then. There's always a chance the moulding is loose enough to take a 14, you might give it a try...

because they're a normal family?

So IIRC G16 means the bulb is 16/8" in diameter, so about 52mm. It doesn't refer to the ES size. You'll need to measure the base to see of it's E12 or E17

the only holes I needed in block were the soil pipes, MVHR vents, and cooker hood duct. The soils I did with a TCT core drill, the others I stitched. All done with a Dewalt cordless SDS and no hassle?

why can't you use PZ screws Ian?

a proper slow cooker is only using 100-150 W. How long does it take a normal lekky oven to *just* get to temperature at 2 or 3kW?

Is the DHW pipe coming out of the PHE dropping in temp immediately, or just the taps? If just the taps, a sticking cartridge in the TMV could do this Have you removed and backflushed the PHE?

Is there a TMV to temper the hot water?

better put that list on here first, Mister.

it's 6x10, from C&S in Tullamore. 40mm insulated, insulated roller door.