dpmiller

and what's the filter and scale situation on it?

I'll offer the contrary view that a short-term imbalance won't harm anything, and cooking may well be excess heat that then causes the rest of the house to overwarm. We've two normal extract points at the "cooking" end of the kitchen area and these deal with day-to-day moisture and odours. But I also have a sizeable extractor over the cooker which can separately deal with the big heat, smell, and grease from rapid wok cooking. At other times it's sealed off by a gravity flap in the duct.

OP, why not just flush the system, replace the PHE, and carry on- for now?

^ but with inverter HPs the efficient range is very wide, infact best efficiency will be at much less than full power as you can stay out of the defrost zone for longer.

so back to the old distance to boundaries/ fire protection thingy. Have you got all the necessary facts lined up?

If you're going to mess it up shoveling stone, does it really need done *now* or would it do as-is until later (and cleaner) into the build?

yep, it's E12 then. There's always a chance the moulding is loose enough to take a 14, you might give it a try...

because they're a normal family?

So IIRC G16 means the bulb is 16/8" in diameter, so about 52mm. It doesn't refer to the ES size. You'll need to measure the base to see of it's E12 or E17

the only holes I needed in block were the soil pipes, MVHR vents, and cooker hood duct. The soils I did with a TCT core drill, the others I stitched. All done with a Dewalt cordless SDS and no hassle?

why can't you use PZ screws Ian?

a proper slow cooker is only using 100-150 W. How long does it take a normal lekky oven to *just* get to temperature at 2 or 3kW?

Is the DHW pipe coming out of the PHE dropping in temp immediately, or just the taps? If just the taps, a sticking cartridge in the TMV could do this Have you removed and backflushed the PHE?

Is there a TMV to temper the hot water?

better put that list on here first, Mister.

it's 6x10, from C&S in Tullamore. 40mm insulated, insulated roller door.

Shed arrived yesterday. Yay! Roller door being fitted today. Now to get stuck into wiring it up and getting some racking sorted

Anything useful here Nick? https://www.islandpelletstoves.co.uk/balanced-flue-for-wood-stoves/

Don't believe so. You can do a sideways offset and that's about it.

Schiedel Swift Air, it's a block-based system that can either be a self-supporting stack or you can integrate it into brick/ block https://www.schiedel.com/uk/products/ceramic-system-chimneys/swift-air/

System chimney is another option- I went down that route as it takes wind direction out of the equation.

I think the concrete companies/ tile distributors just brand up someone elses' clips etc, supplied in the right thickness. IIRC Northstone took over Scott's operation. I used to be in and out of their QC lab 20-odd years ago doing calibrations and at the time their "paint" coating was massively better than anything else on the market.

Our CoolEnergy unit has multipoint control for flow temp vs ambient, as well as maximum inverter speed vs ambient.

really? Sure you're not thinking about concentric?