dpmiller

can't you just tee it into something else and fit a dri-trap?

check reveals ftw

AI?

so what's a set- screw then?

Is it really a layby or just the mouth of the lane? I think the way it works is that you own right up to the road but DRD have rights to maintain the verge along the sightline

so instead of just being along your sightline, their entrance ends up in the actual mouth of your lane? That would require legal documentation I'd say.

those small diesel IR heaters are great for working on front of, not so good for heating a space. They do run very clean, moreso on kero. But for heating the air you'll not beat the rocket heater type. There are even a few that have a flued combustion chamber so no emissions in the room I recently treated myself to one of the boxed chinese caraven heater jobbies and it's very good. 8kW, sips fuel, haven't even bothered piping the exhaust

^ yep. Looks like black iron screwed onto the brass?

yep https://www.renewable-technology.com/projects/strangford-lough-tidal-turbine-northern-ireland/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SeaGen

Not necessarily. Our system runs the TS at 50 but the ASHP cuts in and recovers the tank *during* use. Like an electric shower, but with a COP well above unity...

people keep saying this, anyway.

what size is the installed cable for the cooker?

we're doing the E7 ASHP/ boiler stove combo too, and this year I'm trialing using the immersion diverter towards the end of the E7 period to get some extra heat in the TS without troubling the heat pump with excessive defrosts. I've also increased the room temp a degree to charge the screed a bit more. Stove isn't fired every evening but when it is, 3-4 hours makes for a cozy room to watch telly in and adds about 15c to the TS

why?

where do you live- Beiruit? The Bronx?

90deg chromed pushfit reducer

while you can certainly get drill bits with a 1/4" hex mount few are for masonry. Bosch Multiconstruction bits or similar will do it, but as you've no hammer action to assist it'll be slowish going https://its.co.uk/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/multi-construction-drill-bits/ or here's a yellow option if you prefer https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dewalt-Multi-Purpose-Pieces-DT60099-QZ-Shock-Proof/dp/B01JYO15B0/

in that particular section, wouldn't the steel lintel be acting as firestop? up the sides of the window, or if using a concrete head, would be different...

pictures of the manifolds? and what are all the wires on the RHS connecting together to? what thermostats do you have? there's at least three zone valves, two pumps, and a buffer. That makes around eleventy million different options... And yes, get some insulation on those pipes. You're wasting a shedload of heat there and it sure won't be helping you get everything up to temp..

photos of equipment and display/ controller will help us help you then.

are there two setpoints, and do you have two mixers and manifolds?

if you've wifi there's plenty of simple automation out there. I got a few cheapo zigbee TRVs recently and they're very good, yes you can override them locally, but programming and resetting on the app is simples.

the swan neck will come out, it's got a grey rubber seal around it so one way or another will break free

I'd be surprised if your screed was cooling that quickly. Ours is around the same thickness, and takes the whole E7 period to fully charge with the downstairs not needing any more heat gain through the day. Warmth is certainly obvious to bare feet until noon or so?

3M VHB trim tape as used for side mouldings and the like on cars. Not the cheapest, but guaranteed to work.