dpmiller

is there any pressure-drop or flow monitoring on your unit? Is fan speed under closed-loop cantrol?

Yes, an extractor to the outside. It's through a gravity flap which has a rubber seal on and is pretty airtight, certainly not entertaining any backflow. It will very rarely (depending on wind direction) flap open briefly on very heavy gusts and so I've considered going to a motorised damper, but it's just not bad enough to really worry about...

you're not helping us help you here...

Bog-standard (but powerful) extractor, and MVHR extract point over the sink but near the cooker. Normal steamy cooking is dealt with just fine by the MVHR, but on the occasions that I want to fry or stirfry I whack on the big fan. Ensures the oils aren't heading into the ducts, and I really don't care if flow is unbalanced for half an hour every now and then...

push down harder until it clicks locked?

But can we be sure whether the error happens at other times or not?

soot and ash are very different things... Soot means you're not really getting the fire hot enough, generally. / our Bronpi stove- if you're not careful- can have ash make it's way into the external air pipe underneath the unit if you aren't gentle with the ashpan. But there's no sign of any of that, even light fly-ash, making it's way upwards into the secondary and tertiary circuits.

other than a very occasional Aga, I don't think I've ever seen an indoor oil boiler this side of the wee pond

If funds are really tight and you can put up with the difference in insulation value, try 100 PIR over 50 EPS. The EPS is a bit more forgiving of the subfloor too...

This is like an unsealed expansion bottle in a car then, the only other way for it to deflate is a blockage in that pipe to the "overflow" bottle.

all of it?

because?

Throw up temporary, or buy a cheap set from the merchants, until the very last moment. Ours is a value-engineered lashup of oak, mdf, and something else solid-woody, but it really finished the hall off, very pleased with it.

See what Keylite can do for you too...

why would the tap need to be the same brand?

yep, I bought too and I'm not sure I'd ever get rid tbh. Far too handy...

it's not unusual to switch on the neutral like that, means each item's supply can be individually fused. Plus there's something in the back of my head that it's electrically "quieter" but I'm not sure where I'm recollecting that bit from, lol.

Honestly yes, I'd have a relay in there.

umm... get the manual?

It's about 270l full, a 300 shell with expansion volume; and both the ASHP and DHW coils are around the 3m2 mark. I run the DHW from the heat pump at a 51c setpoint and a 2c hysteresis, so what with stratification and deltaT on the flow the top of the tank is 55-57c. The sensor is halfway down, between the DHW and ASHP coils. Myself or Boy Wonder can have a shower before the heatpump cuts in, better half about 3/4 of a shower. But the output temp never drops noticeably as the heatpump is quick enough to replenish the heat... So at reasonable flow rates I only see a few degrees between TS temp and DHW at the tap. Also, in the cold weather I run a timed boost on the upper immersion at getting-up time so the heatpump can focus on charging the slab without unneccesary defrosts. At E7 rates I'm sure the difference in COP makes minimal difference. Obviously if the stove is/was lit, or the sun's been out and the diverter has been busy, there's a lot more energy to play with too.

Nope, they pulled the more complex versions from sale. I looked at the Copperindustries MaxiPod, but ended up getting Worldheat to make me a TS with similar characterisitics- manual fill, big coils, direct connections for a stove.

except it's not 3ph. It's 310VDC plus an enable and a speed control input?

A shot of spray grease in the general direction of the front bearing might be worth a try, in the short term at least?

so you prised the collet out of the pushfit connector, it just needs popped back in. That connector will unscrew from the end of the filter too, leaving a 1/4"BSP for you to do what you want. It's probably sealed with silicone rather than PTFE but it'll unscrew if needed...

is the unit switching to humidity-controlled boost? try upping the humidity threshold a few %, the sensor's are n't that accurate in my experience