dpmiller

This is like an unsealed expansion bottle in a car then, the only other way for it to deflate is a blockage in that pipe to the "overflow" bottle.

all of it?

because?

Throw up temporary, or buy a cheap set from the merchants, until the very last moment. Ours is a value-engineered lashup of oak, mdf, and something else solid-woody, but it really finished the hall off, very pleased with it.

See what Keylite can do for you too...

why would the tap need to be the same brand?

yep, I bought too and I'm not sure I'd ever get rid tbh. Far too handy...

it's not unusual to switch on the neutral like that, means each item's supply can be individually fused. Plus there's something in the back of my head that it's electrically "quieter" but I'm not sure where I'm recollecting that bit from, lol.

Honestly yes, I'd have a relay in there.

umm... get the manual?

It's about 270l full, a 300 shell with expansion volume; and both the ASHP and DHW coils are around the 3m2 mark. I run the DHW from the heat pump at a 51c setpoint and a 2c hysteresis, so what with stratification and deltaT on the flow the top of the tank is 55-57c. The sensor is halfway down, between the DHW and ASHP coils. Myself or Boy Wonder can have a shower before the heatpump cuts in, better half about 3/4 of a shower. But the output temp never drops noticeably as the heatpump is quick enough to replenish the heat... So at reasonable flow rates I only see a few degrees between TS temp and DHW at the tap. Also, in the cold weather I run a timed boost on the upper immersion at getting-up time so the heatpump can focus on charging the slab without unneccesary defrosts. At E7 rates I'm sure the difference in COP makes minimal difference. Obviously if the stove is/was lit, or the sun's been out and the diverter has been busy, there's a lot more energy to play with too.

Nope, they pulled the more complex versions from sale. I looked at the Copperindustries MaxiPod, but ended up getting Worldheat to make me a TS with similar characterisitics- manual fill, big coils, direct connections for a stove.

except it's not 3ph. It's 310VDC plus an enable and a speed control input?

A shot of spray grease in the general direction of the front bearing might be worth a try, in the short term at least?

so you prised the collet out of the pushfit connector, it just needs popped back in. That connector will unscrew from the end of the filter too, leaving a 1/4"BSP for you to do what you want. It's probably sealed with silicone rather than PTFE but it'll unscrew if needed...

is the unit switching to humidity-controlled boost? try upping the humidity threshold a few %, the sensor's are n't that accurate in my experience

step away from the push-fit connector...

and using a diverter (no battery in play and only minimal PV) can modulate the excess power in a way that an ASHP can't. No start/stop issues...

they do?

is it actually filling with water?

depending on probe placement and hysteresis values, shouldn't reheat be ocurring by then?

^ what's the fitting on top of the bottle and where does the copper pipe go?

no, it's "effective power" rather than real pressure as I understand it. Look at the difference in build between (say) a power washer and the hydraulic system on a digger, the main pressure on my Takeuchi is 200bar but the hoses are rated to 700bar vs our Karcher's lance hose rated to 145... or maybe there's just no safety factor built in to domestic washers.

So the Runhu's timer is slightly simpler than (eg) an iBoost. Whereas the iBoost has a weekday/weekend timer, the PVmate only has a 24hr timer but with either you can set grid boost times to your preference, up to three periods per day, yes. The downside of a single immersion is (obviously) that once that is satisfied, there's nowhere else for the energy to go. /we have a TS with 2 immersions. The system happily boosts and diverts on the upper element until it's satisfied, then switches to the lower one with a higher 'stat setting, to soak up the maximum PV when available

they don't pump at 3000psi tho, that's the pressure measured at the nozzle...